Page 1 of 1

76 model transfer case backlash

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:19 pm
by ratrangie
My transfer case has big backlash noise should i make it a boat anchor or is this common, with a easy fix ????
Regards Stu

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:29 pm
by DL
Hi Ratrangie,

Go through the simple (cheap) things first. A worn A-frame to rear diff ball joint will produce a very loud clunk which can easily be confused with TC noise. I've seen nearly 5mm of slop in one, obviously never replaced from new. Upper nylon surround next to nothing. hve a look.

DL

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:44 pm
by ISUZUROVER
Lock the centre diff, then see if it goes away.

Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:30 pm
by Loanrangie
ISUZUROVER wrote:Lock the centre diff, then see if it goes away.
I have noticed on my rangie that when i lock the center in the lt230 its quiet as with no backlash, but unlocked its a definate clunk as i shift into reverse or manually shift from 1st up to 2nd on the tf 727- i think its just the auto ?
Balljoint has just been replaced and as noted above the bj was rooted, all the nylon was worn out and had 5mm play alround.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 6:33 am
by cloughy
Loanrangie wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:Lock the centre diff, then see if it goes away.
I have noticed on my rangie that when i lock the center in the lt230 its quiet as with no backlash, but unlocked its a definate clunk as i shift into reverse or manually shift from 1st up to 2nd on the tf 727- i think its just the auto ?
Balljoint has just been replaced and as noted above the bj was rooted, all the nylon was worn out and had 5mm play alround.
If it goes away with the centre diff locked, you wouldn't happened to think it could be the internals of the centre diff :idea: wornspider gears and cross shaft perhaps :?:

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:31 pm
by Loanrangie
cloughy wrote:
Loanrangie wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:Lock the centre diff, then see if it goes away.
I have noticed on my rangie that when i lock the center in the lt230 its quiet as with no backlash, but unlocked its a definate clunk as i shift into reverse or manually shift from 1st up to 2nd on the tf 727- i think its just the auto ?
Balljoint has just been replaced and as noted above the bj was rooted, all the nylon was worn out and had 5mm play alround.
If it goes away with the centre diff locked, you wouldn't happened to think it could be the internals of the centre diff :idea: wornspider gears and cross shaft perhaps :?:
No idea, never had a worn lt230 before and never had one apart .......yet.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:45 pm
by Micka
Loanrangie wrote:
cloughy wrote:
Loanrangie wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:Lock the centre diff, then see if it goes away.
I have noticed on my rangie that when i lock the center in the lt230 its quiet as with no backlash, but unlocked its a definate clunk as i shift into reverse or manually shift from 1st up to 2nd on the tf 727- i think its just the auto ?
Balljoint has just been replaced and as noted above the bj was rooted, all the nylon was worn out and had 5mm play alround.
If it goes away with the centre diff locked, you wouldn't happened to think it could be the internals of the centre diff :idea: wornspider gears and cross shaft perhaps :?:
No idea, never had a worn lt230 before and never had one apart .......yet.
If you do pull it apart...remember to put ALL of the bearings back in ;) ...hey HI JACK :D


Micka

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:10 pm
by Casey_leonard
It could indeed be in the transfer case and most probably is.
It was common back when I was mechanicing for a Rover dealer to re-shim the cross shaft gears and replace the brass/bronze bush's in the TC to reduce/remove backlash. If you drop the bottom plate off you will see a shaft that goes east west with a set of gears on it, the shaft slides in from one side and is held in place by a metal locking plate and a nut. The gears have brass/bronze type shims throughout and wear out. If you put a screwdriver either end of this gear set and work the backlash you will soon see what I mean, there shouldn't be any noticeable movement using this method. At both ends of the shaft there is a metal shim shaped like a pear with a knob on it, these also wear out. Unfortunately unless you have access to a variety of shim sizes and a dummy shaft to aid in assembly you would need to get it done by someone that does. It's not all that difficult to do and a competent mechanic should be able to do it from woe to go in around 4 hours.
If I can find a pic of this shaft and gear set I will post it up.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:26 pm
by Casey_leonard
"a shaft that goes east west"....

Sorry, the shaft runs front to rear of course.

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:32 pm
by cloughy
Casey_leonard wrote:"a shaft that goes east west"....

Sorry, the shaft runs front to rear of course.


:rofl: If you edit your original post and delete that one nobody will know

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:41 pm
by Casey_leonard
Image

Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:48 pm
by Casey_leonard
Thanks cloughy, I'll remember that in the future.
Cheers