Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

In gathering the parts for my SPOA (which really don't amount to many at all), I was considering whether to use a drop pitman arm. US$95 for 3" drop, or US$78 for 4" drop (GO FIGURE!)

Anyhoo, my question is why does everyone talk about z'd drag links and gussets, etc, rather than drop pitman arms?

Do people use them? Are they safer/more effective than bending the drag link? Are they legal in NSW/AUST for registered vehicles?

On a side issue, though related....what brake lines have people who have done a homegrown SPOA used? I was considering SWIFT ones, which appear to be long enough. Any other suggestions?

I appreciate your thoughts.

Many thanks.

we make a hi steer set up to suit zooks.

We do a few different set ups that will either place all your steering above the springs or just the draglink. This eliminates the need for the dodgy z-link and the dropped pitman arm.

PM me if you want anymore info

I have a drop pitman arm + z-link.

Do you mind if I ask why you chose SPOA??

I will be more than likely going back spring under in NOV and will probably offload these parts.

Steve

Hi Steve,

No probs at all.

I've read a few articles and stuff on the net and basically I'm a poser!!

SPOA will give me a lot of height for minimal cost, with decent articulation (I removed the swaybar today), and I can throw my 31's on. I'll be able to drive in pot holes without getting wet.

Although I don't do a heap of offroading, in the stuff I've read, people say that it's a decent bang for your buck solution to the lift issue.

I'm happy to give it a go.

What sorta $$ am I likely to pay, and what's included when you rip yours out?

body lift

Impulsive wrote:Hi Steve,

No probs at all.

I've read a few articles and stuff on the net and basically I'm a poser!!

SPOA will give me a lot of height for minimal cost, with decent articulation (I removed the swaybar today), and I can throw my 31's on. I'll be able to drive in pot holes without getting wet.

Although I don't do a heap of offroading, in the stuff I've read, people say that it's a decent bang for your buck solution to the lift issue.

I'm happy to give it a go.

What sorta $$ am I likely to pay, and what's included when you rip yours out?

I think mine has Ok travel but only with longer shocks so if you aren't budgetting for new shocks than you aint lookin at too much more travel.

If you are budgetting for new shocks then also budget for replacements for those new ones as the axle wrap with the SPOA CAN damage (In My Case Puncture) the shocks on the brake line mounts on the axle housing - Greg Will back me up on this.

I will be going back to SPUA with OME rears all round.

BUT

If your rig is purely a poser (By the way I really admire your honesty there are some peeps around who drive posers and are all talk) then the SPOA is probably a cheap 4+ inch lift mine cost me about $800 and I easily cleared 34's a week ago.

Big Steve

Spring overs are fine if done properly......do it dodgey and you will have problems - but that goes with anything really.

I wouldnt bother getting a drop pitman arm because you will still need a zbar anyway....so it isnt worth the money...either use a z-link or go hi steer.

Go for a high steer setup there are a few options I have an overkill highsteer setup and it is brilliant before that I had 3" drop pitman and home made reinforced zlink. The difference is chalk and cheese. steering is lighter and bump steer eliminated.

Steering is "lighter" with the high steer? Wow, must make a huge difference in the geometry, just by making everything sit flatter, etc.

I might have to enquire about high steer. You're not the first to say that about it.

have a look at honda accord and suzuki swift brake lines for longer lines.


you could also have custom ones made for around $30-40 each to any length you want.

if you run a dropped pitman arm, you will still need to run a dodge z link

these things are leathel and you will dart across lanes of traffic on pot holed roads.

for the safety. piece of mind, strength and for maybe $250 more

dont buy a dropped drag link or build a gay z link

BUY A CROSS OVER ARM

you wont regret it

N*A*M wrote:body lift

$150AUD

Should be able to fit a 31 quite nicely

greg wrote:

N*A*M wrote:body lift

$150AUD

Should be able to fit a 31 quite nicely

safer than a ghetto fabbed spoa

skippy wrote:have a look at honda accord and suzuki swift brake lines for longer lines.


you could also have custom ones made for around $30-40 each to any length you want.

I had some longer ones made for my car - as Skippy said - mine were about 35 per corner...

One thing to note that i heard from the mechanic who was fitting them was that if you go too long on the brake lines you reduce how effectively the pressure is passed down to the brakes - and will require a bigger/better master cylinder. is that right?

I just got my spoa on this weekend finally ,after lots of delays...my rig is going to be a daily driver but i wanted the option to take it offroad&with a little clearance so i put a 5"spoa...it will work for 31"tires but kind in mind...as far as money goes your looking at

$150-180 shocks
$20-28x4 -new perches
$100-150 new steering linkage(over the top would be a good replacement for a z-link)
$20-30x3 or 4 depending on year- new brake lines
$35 x2 driveshaft spacers or (about $90x2)extended drive shafts(which if i had it to do over i would have got)
$50-60 new poly bushing for your leafs(if there going to flex more you will need solid bushings)

thats about all i can think of right now...

anyways what will cost you the most is time...be prepared to put some hours in&take it one step at a time...its all easy just go at your own pace and DO IT RIGHT...

hope this helps you in some way...i will try to post some pics of my new spoa here soon

The other thing with the drop pitman arm is it can (may not) get fouled on the on the drivers side leaf spring on compression ...

As your not after heaps of flex this may not be an issue for you ..

greg wrote:

skippy wrote:have a look at honda accord and suzuki swift brake lines for longer lines.


you could also have custom ones made for around $30-40 each to any length you want.

I had some longer ones made for my car - as Skippy said - mine were about 35 per corner...

One thing to note that i heard from the mechanic who was fitting them was that if you go too long on the brake lines you reduce how effectively the pressure is passed down to the brakes - and will require a bigger/better master cylinder. is that right?

sure does. but the stock booster should be fine. I know guys running 20"+ of line at each corner and still use the stock booster.


as for the 2" body lift and fitting tyres. I have 2" body lift, stock springs and fit the 32" mongrel in with minor rubbing. which I'm fixing (read: bump stops thread).

skippy wrote:as for the 2" body lift and fitting tyres. I have 2" body lift, stock springs and fit the 32" mongrel in with minor rubbing. which I'm fixing (read: bump stops thread).

32's with a body lift?

Sweet!

I'm going home to remove my spring over tonight and get a body lift - that sounds like an awesome setup

bigsteve wrote:I have a drop pitman arm + z-link.

Do you mind if I ask why you chose SPOA??

I will be more than likely going back spring under in NOV and will probably offload these parts.

Steve

why dont u just put a trackbar in it would be a lot easier the goin back to spua?
and still put oldman emus allround

Wow everyone...thanks again for the info.

I was considering body lift, except for the pain in the ass issues like engineering and insurance...not to mention the gearshift, etc.

I was up till recently quite happy to fabricate my own body lift out of aluminium rod (Having read other threads), but I'm not too sure now, due to the above.

The expense of a decent steering linkage, however, also makes the SPOA unattractive, but probably the most likely of the two to get done.

At least without a drop pitman arm, I know I won't have any compatibility issues when I do a power steering conversion later.

Impulsive wrote:Wow everyone...thanks again for the info.

I was considering body lift, except for the pain in the ass issues like engineering and insurance....

this is same for spoa

Impulsive wrote:I was considering body lift, except for the pain in the ass issues like engineering and insurance...not to mention the gearshift, etc.

Oh i get it... We're playing opposites

I believe the body lift is technically, engineeringably*, and insuringably* far easier than the Spring Over.

* - obviously these are not real words - but were created for good reading

redzook wrote:

bigsteve wrote:I have a drop pitman arm + z-link.

Do you mind if I ask why you chose SPOA??

I will be more than likely going back spring under in NOV and will probably offload these parts.

Steve

why dont u just put a trackbar in it would be a lot easier the goin back to spua?
and still put oldman emus allround

Because with the 5 odd inches of lift (SPOA & Shackles) + another 2 inches min from the OME's I will have 7 inches of lift with everything up top.

I rather go low and chop like it aint no thang!!!!

dont get lifted springs then
and it shouldnt lift your car much more

then it will be perfect for Q78's

Here comes the SPOA bashers again......

keep it sprung over

use a 2inch lifted spring but pull a leaf or two out so they sag to be flat.

The lifted springs are better to use, after you have pulled out a few leaves, as each individual leaf is thicker than a standard leaf so they last longer before they go S shaped.

redzook wrote:dont get lifted springs then
and it shouldnt lift your car much more

then it will be perfect for Q78's

I think Red Zook has got a point here Big Steve... I think those Q78's are just what you need for that little car of yours

That or a big set of Boggers <-- ( My first use of Razz - i think he's well suited here )

greg wrote:
I think Red Zook has got a point here Big Steve

just quoteing this for future reference

redzook wrote:just quoteing this for future reference

Just quoting this for future reference

if you just want to fit a 31 and don't intend to do any serious wheeling. Get a set of 2.5"lifted springs (preferably ARB) extend your shackles by an 1", hammer the seams down in the wheel wells and trim the bumper extension bar.

They will fit, the cost won't be much, will still be insurable no engineering required. Easier and cheapest way to go. i had this setup for quite a few years and it was great until I wanted bigger tyres etc

here is a pic of that setup with 7.00 x 16 SATs on (about a 31") this was probably taken in 95 or 96 (I know the © says 2001 but long story)