Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Does anyone know the difference?

Oh, and what made the 200TDi so bad?

up2nogood wrote:Does anyone know the difference?

Oh, and what made the 200TDi so bad?

Oh lets start by saying, to alot of people the 200 TDi is a better more bullet proof engine than the 300 TDi
The 200 was more farm like and the 300 was bought out to be a bit more refined. And to meet emisson
Alot of people belive the 200 is better in mud and crap the 300 is better on the open road.
Having had both , i can see there point.
Alot of people don't like the fan belt on the 300. Too danty for thick mud and crap. The pulley wheel is always a target for it
Also the 300 water pump is at the top of the engine so if you slighty go low on the engine you are at great risk to blow it up.
Where as the 200 was not and the first you knew that the water was low was the heaters not working
The 300 does have a bit more BHP than the 200 but not alot
One major complant with the 200 was not with the engine but the clutch . alot say it was too hard. The was made better in the 300 .

But to finish. Alot of Land Rover garages in the Uk will tell you they would have a 200 over 300 anyday. As the hardly have to repair the 200 where as the do with the 300.

My dad did 450,000 miles in a 200 and the same in a 300 and he still prefered the 200.

up2nogood wrote:Does anyone know the difference?

Oh, and what made the 200TDi so bad?

The last sentence should read "Oh, and what made the 300TDi so bad?"

Grem

Tdi200 wrote:

up2nogood wrote:Does anyone know the difference?

Oh, and what made the 200TDi so bad?

The last sentence should read "Oh, and what made the 300TDi so bad?"

Grem

My water pump's up high, so I might have a 300. Funnily I don't have a wastegate on my turbocharger.

Thye workshop manual shows the 200 actually having a wastegate but I won't use the turbo as the point of difference as it's a bolt on.

But the manual does show the water pump on the 200 up high on the engine?

up2nogood wrote:My water pump's up high, so I might have a 300. Funnily I don't have a wastegate on my turbocharger.

Thye workshop manual shows the 200 actually having a wastegate but I won't use the turbo as the point of difference as it's a bolt on.

But the manual does show the water pump on the 200 up high on the engine?

Has it got a wide fan belt or a V grove thin belt on it. Thin belt 200 wide belt 300

Flat, wide, ribbed serpentine belt that runs everything.

Bloody stupid idea. I prefer my v8's set up with separate belts for everything.

up2nogood wrote:Flat, wide, ribbed serpentine belt that runs everything.

Bloody stupid idea. I prefer my v8's set up with separate belts for everything.

That will be a 300 then . see what i mean the 200 tdi belt is better . But only for mud . you don't have to tighten the serpentine belt . (knew what they were called before but could not spell it )

That'd be it then.

Oh, was crawling under the damn thing and the wastegate is between the engine and turbo......

up2nogood wrote:That'd be it then.

Oh, was crawling under the damn thing and the wastegate is between the engine and turbo......

got any ideas on how to tweek the turbo? or just having a nose around?

up2nogood wrote:Flat, wide, ribbed serpentine belt that runs everything.

Bloody stupid idea. I prefer my v8's set up with separate belts for everything.

Doesnt run the air con

You have a point there!


As far as turbo tweaking goes, shorten the rod on the waste gate!

I'm going to fit a boost gauge so I know what it's running now. Standard is 11.3 for the 200TDi, dunno what the 300 runs.
I think the best initial performance mod is get rid of the standard LR exhaust and muffler and fit a straight through 2.5" exhaust system. Got to watch it doesn't spike the boost above what it's happy with though although that's what a wastegate is for.....
That's the reason for the boost gauge.

I think there's a fuel pump mod as well, maybe TuffRR had a post on this, but I can't recall.

up2nogood wrote:You have a point there!


As far as turbo tweaking goes, shorten the rod on the waste gate!

dunno what the 300 runs.
.

14psi

Thanks for that, saved some searching!

Leave the wastegate alone on the 300 unless u are running a bigger intercooler. 14.5 to 15 psi is standard, but with more fuelling can peak out at 16. This is about the limit of flow for the standard intercooler.

Pump mods are the way to go....

1) adjust valve clearances, .008" inlet and exhaust, hot or cold.
2) Has the timing belt been replaced within the last 80,000km? If not, do it now and check the pump timing via plunger lift method, correct plunger lift is 1.84mm ( believe)
Once all this is done, do the following:

Remove the boost controller cover on top of fuel pump.
Inside there will be a diaphragm. On top of the diaphragm there will be a small punch mark. Take note of where this is in relation to the pump housing.
Next, remove the diaphragm and under it you will find a star shaped adjustment wheel. Take note of where the star wheel is in relation to the housing, and mark it. Then rotate clockwise down into the pump body about 2 to 3 turns.
Refit the diaphragm into the pump body in its original position. Then rotate clockwise about 1/4 of a turn MAX.
Refit pump cover.
Start engine and rev a few times to set governor pin against stop.
When engine is at operating temp, remove tamper proof cover for main fuel adjustment, behind pump and next to stop solenoid. loosen locknut and screw in MAX 1/3 turn.
Connect pyrometer EGR plate on exhaust manifold by drilling and tapping an adapter that should come with the pyro kit.
Run engine up a long hill at hard throttle, and check exhaust temps. 600 deg is a good max .( Upstream of the turbine, down stream can loose at least 120deg)
I've seen these at 800 degrees, but at those temps, the little compressor wheel and the housing will soon melt...
If temps are too high, reduce full load fuel at the main fuel adjustment, anticlockwise a little at a time.
TAKE NOTE EVERYONE>>>>>>
ALL THESE ADJUSTMENTS ARE TO BE MADE IN A SCIENTIFIC AND STEADY MANNER. I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ENGINE DESTRUCTION DUE TO INCORRECT FUELLING, AS YOU SHOULD DO ALL TUNING WITH A PYROMETER.

PM if you want clarification on anything.

JC

just had a problem this arvo with my 300tdi, when i started the engine again one of the idler pullies on the driver side of the engine had siezed up n the belt was smoking, luckily it only serves the air cond pump so i cut the belt. got home took the pulley off to find no balls in the bearing n about 1/2mm of the outer bearing case left, this is the second idler pulley bearing to shit itself first was the one above. lucky i carry a spare all the time. if you loose the top one your rat shit without an alt or w/ pump, so if you plan a big trip take a $4.50 spare bearing for sake. another reason why the old v belt set up can have its advantage

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:just had a problem this arvo with my 300tdi, when i started the engine again one of the idler pullies on the driver side of the engine had siezed up n the belt was smoking, luckily it only serves the air cond pump so i cut the belt. got home took the pulley off to find no balls in the bearing n about 1/2mm of the outer bearing case left, this is the second idler pulley bearing to shit itself first was the one above. lucky i carry a spare all the time. if you loose the top one your rat shit without an alt or w/ pump, so if you plan a big trip take a $4.50 spare bearing for sake. another reason why the old v belt set up can have its advantage

Thanks for the tip...do you have a part number for the bearing or bearings?

yep, part number 6203 NSE, ive got mine at repco for a couple of bucks each, apart from that ive had no other reliability probs apart from a few leaks starting to pop up

the beuty of these is that the bearing is replaceable, a guy at work had one freeze on his 80 series and the bearing is press locked into the pulley(through away job), these are pressed in but can be nocked out and refitted with a drift

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:the beuty of these is that the bearing is replaceable, a guy at work had one freeze on his 80 series and the bearing is press locked into the pulley(through away job), these are pressed in but can be nocked out and refitted with a drift

Ok cool...got that but are we talking Ider pulleys or the tention pulleys for the belts?

Must be idler cause the tention would be worth alot more $$ Im thinking

Whats a drift by the way?

A heavy piece of steel that you belt with a hammer to get the bearing out of the casing.

And it's the idler pulley for the a/c. Not the larger one for the serpentine belt.

yea thats right the tensioner is a complete unit which is alot more, when you use a drift the best youll find on those is a socket as there will be one that matches the outer dia of the bearing case so when you are knocking them in your not hitting(damaging) the inner where the balls run.

The bearings on the two idlers for the a/c and the tensioner for the serpentine belt should all be the same-I've just replaced all 3 on my 300tdi. Just remember that the one on the serpentine tensioner is a left hand thread on the pulley bolt. If its still got the stupid rover circlip without any holes for the pliers you need to chip a notch in the metal of the pulley so you can get a screwdriver blade in and lever it out.

just my 2c's...

I would pick a 200 tdi over the 300 anytime.

One reason is the 'GQ gearbox ' effect.

This means I have no idea whats inside them because I have never seen a busted one yet...

Seriously, the 200 is a far better engine, but unfortonately harder to work on than the 300.

JC

justinC wrote:
One reason is the 'GQ gearbox ' effect.

JC

So all the idler bearings are the same part?

Cool, I was just quoted $190 for the idler & the tensioner bearings.

they are very similar..no difference in power..bore or stroke..the 300 is usually better cos its newer and generally has less miles on..

they are as good as each other..

up2nogood wrote:So all the idler bearings are the same part?

Cool, I was just quoted $190 for the idler & the tensioner bearings.

Yes, only $3 or so each.

The idler pulley from commodore v6 are same size and same bearing.

Spot on. Am picking up a pair from Repco in the morning.

$190. are you sure you didnt ask for 2 sets of big end bearings