Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just perchest a mk L28 PETROL and she dont like water. what's the best way to waterproof the motor on the old girl,so its happy .... plugs, cap, coil, leads.

Buy a diesel Or use a lot of silicon and a decent waterproof snorkel

Diesels like water even less than petrols.... due to the hihger compression ratio if they suck in any water they're MUCH easier to blow up.

But at least they're a bit easier to keep sealed up.

toughnut wrote: use a lot of silicon

NEVER use silicone on any engine parts
Silicone wont work where OIL and or Petrol is or has been unless its specifically designed for that area of use IE: Black silicone used as a "gasket maker".

For water proofing use "VASOLINE Petroleum jelly", just smear it around the lip of the dizzy cap for a good seal that will dispearse water yet allow the cap to be easilly removed for inspection ( unlike silicone which will make the removal bloody hard )

Water in the dizzy comes from one of 2 areas......
1/ direct splashing ( river xings ) where the water is sprayed at the dizzy under high pressure from the engine fan.
2/ condensation, water inside the engine is "boiled off" and then rises as a steam within the engine itself, the steam will rise to the highest point in the engine such as the rocker cover, dizzy cap areas where it cools and then forms water droplets again for the whole cycle to repeat itself again.

To water proof the sparkplugs simply use a small amount of vasoline again and also apply a small ziptie to the upper part of the rubber boot covering the plug, this will stop water from leaching down between the boot and the actual lead.

The same trick works on the dizzy end of the sparkplug lead.


Remember you may need to gain access to the dizzy whilst in the bush and if its siloconed on you'll be quite a while seperating the cap from the housing and you'll then need to clean ALL the silicone off so that the cap will re-seat properly.... and then where's the seal gone ???


Kingy

you can use silicon paste, just not the setting type. it looks and acts just like "VASOLINE Petroleum jelly" except it dosn't dissolve in oil as easly.

the setting type silicon is a pain, it will crack and peel off and go into everything.

yeah the vaslione sounds the go, i was thinking of grease, bugger the silicone to much work later lol

tweak'e wrote:you can use silicon paste, just not the setting type. it looks and acts just like "VASOLINE Petroleum jelly" except it dosn't dissolve in oil as easly.

the setting type silicon is a pain, it will crack and peel off and go into everything.

This is the stuff I meant. my bad.

ive never heard of the stuff ..silicon paste...ill have a look when i go down the road tommow

So how do you seal the snorkel tubing?

blkmav wrote:So how do you seal the snorkel tubing?

For starters, if you have a factory nissan snorkel then take it off and make sure it holds water and doesn't leak. These have been known to be porous and have small holes around the badge. You can use the same principal as with the motor. Just make sure you have good seals at all the joins and breather conections.

ok ive got an MQ as well as my new toy which is a GQ and done the same thing to both to stop water interfering with the motor.
Go to supercheap auto and get a small air compser, ive stuck mine under my seat, wire it up and run a small hose to the dizzy.
When u cross deep water, simply flick a switch, compresser on and cross. It also helps having a snorkle ofcoures.
also turn on when washing engine bay, with engine running, try having engine reving round 1500 rpm.
I never get any trouble using this methord.
air get's pumped into the dizzy, blowing any water trying to enter.

for my outboard i completely spray it in tectrol , forms a waxy seal and guarenteed not to leek9 did my winch as well

Always use a blind when river crossing anything much over hub deep. For general waterproofing and river crossing techniques have a look at an article I wrote for my local 4wd club and reproduced on the Nelson NZ website http://www.4wdnz.net/articles/articles.html

It is more relevant to our fast SI gravel bed rivers but the principles are much the same.