Outer Limits 4x4 Board

has any one got information on a clutch called a button or something like it, i am running a 1.6gb, with dual lockers and finding clutch the soft point in the equation. Local guy suggested this semi button clutch and i have no idea. Does it install the same ??? as can do the standard clutch fine.

Just need details on what the differance it.

bj

benjamin78au wrote:has any one got information on a clutch called a button or something like it, i am running a 1.6gb, with dual lockers and finding clutch the soft point in the equation. Local guy suggested this semi button clutch and i have no idea. Does it install the same ??? as can do the standard clutch fine.

Just need details on what the difference it.

bj

Button clutches are usually more of a binary thing .. on or off, with very little in between. I used to run a custom button sintered copper clutch that was petty durable and was not prone to overheating like an organic unit is, ans was brutally strong (for a Zuk clutch anyway) but the uptake was vicious..

Before that I had a centreforce unit that I managed to cook a few times but that was due to running 33 swampers in heavy clay with a 1.6 and no gears it was OK but cost about 300 or so from memory..

What clutch have you got at the moment .. I believe the best of the common heavy duty clutches guys are using in Zuks is the safari tuff one (I think that's it)

well moment, i kinda dont have a clutch , i ripped the center out of it.
Runing 30s thought, and am hardish on clutch.


Been given 3 prices from lacal guy just to get car moving

180 for dankin std,
260 for dankin hd
or 320 for the hd button

I am rought on clutchs, i dont warm up cars, and driving still, is a few thousand rpm, when i should be crawling. Do tow a boat occasionaly. Thoughts so far are towards the hd clutch. and if it goes later, i need to reassess the situation and driving style,

bj

hd doesn't always mean long lasting.

The clamping strength, that is how hard spring plate pushes onto the friction plate, and friction of the material both are important for prevention of slipping.
Long lasting clutches can fail in these two areas.
I guess thickness can affect length of life, too.

Do enough research to make a good choice.
I don't know enough to comment any further.

christover

leave the brass button clutch alone. As already mentioned they are really harsh on the uptake.

If you aren't afraid of spending a bit tof cash, have a look at calminis dual friction centre force clutch. These are the ducks guts as far as zook clutches go.

benjamin78au wrote:well moment, i kinda dont have a clutch , i ripped the center out of it.
Runing 30s thought, and am hardish on clutch.


Been given 3 prices from lacal guy just to get car moving

180 for dankin std,
260 for dankin hd
or 320 for the hd button

I am rought on clutchs, i dont warm up cars, and driving still, is a few thousand rpm, when i should be crawling. Do tow a boat occasionaly. Thoughts so far are towards the hd clutch. and if it goes later, i need to reassess the situation and driving style,

bj

I would go the HD and see how you go ..

I assume dankin = Daikin which is now Exedy

Take a gander at thir web site and make up your own mind

http://www.exedy.com.au/products2.asp?t ... rts%20tuff

or if your really hard on clucthes

http://www.exedy.com.au/clutch/hyperMultiPlate.htm

Gutless wrote:leave the brass button clutch alone. As already mentioned they are really harsh on the uptake.

If you aren't afraid of spending a bit tof cash, have a look at calminis dual friction centre force clutch. These are the ducks guts as far as zook clutches go.

Had one ... Didnt like it one much, the puck sintered copper clutch I had was better and cheaper as well..

love_mud wrote:

Gutless wrote:leave the brass button clutch alone. As already mentioned they are really harsh on the uptake.

If you aren't afraid of spending a bit tof cash, have a look at calminis dual friction centre force clutch. These are the ducks guts as far as zook clutches go.

Had one ... Didnt like it one much, the puck sintered copper clutch I had was better and cheaper as well..

Thats cool. Each to their own.

Whatever you do, don't buy a PBR clutch of any type!!!

Gutless wrote:

love_mud wrote:

Gutless wrote:leave the brass button clutch alone. As already mentioned they are really harsh on the uptake.

If you aren't afraid of spending a bit tof cash, have a look at calminis dual friction centre force clutch. These are the ducks guts as far as zook clutches go.

Had one ... Didnt like it one much, the puck sintered copper clutch I had was better and cheaper as well..

Thats cool. Each to their own.

Whatever you do, don't buy a PBR clutch of any type!!!

PBR aren't that great, and dont last. just not as good a quality. mine had the ends of the pressure plate fingers break off.

Daikin are exedy now, and i was quoted about $180 for a standard clutch for my G16a.

button and puck clutches dont use conventional full clutch plates. most do not have dampener springs either, thats why they are On Off styles.

i dont think there are many options or ways to prevent fried clutches. you can either go std or HD clutches, and go through more of them, or get a button clutch and live with the harshness, or more sensibly, invest in some transfer reduction gearing, or even diff re-gearing. transfer gears are about $1000, same as 4 clutchs.

changing driving styles is not an easy task for most, especially if you are killing ur clutch all the time.

You will find that almost all the excedy "puck\button" style clutches have a sprung centre