Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Has anybody got pics of how they hooked up the turbo oil return to the sump? without removing the sump...

Dont really want to remove the sump at all.

I have heard of just punchering a hole on the side of the sump and soldering the pipe to it (easy as), even heard of arb glueing it to the sump, but I dont trust arb's way of doing it...

I've already got the intercooler and both boost/egt gauges fitted. Im just in the final stage of getting the new ct26/garrett turbo assembled.

Ulises

Dunce is the man for this question.

i must of done it the shite way!! i took sump off and brazed a short piece of pipe in. wasn't too hard though. i can't see why you couldn't dump your oil and bung a punch through it. maybe heat up the spot where you want it first.

DX80 wrote:Dunce is the man for this question.

Yeah, but he takes the time to remove the sump...
If there is no other choice, I will remove it... but I dont want to if there is another way of doing it.

Ulises

you might find that it's quicker to remove the sump and work on it on a bench nice and clean than try and stuff around and weld a dirty sump under your car.

mule75 wrote:you might find that it's quicker to remove the sump and work on it on a bench nice and clean than try and stuff around and weld a dirty sump under your car.

Good time to change the big end bearings while your at at.

Chucky wrote:Good time to change the big end bearings while your at at.

Anything technical about it? or just remove and replace with new bearings?

Ulises

apparently 1hz/1hdt mains and big ends are all odd sizes, so it's an engine out job. engine needs to be line bored and rods resized. thats what i've been told, yet to do it myself though.

Are these so called bigends the ones that connect the crank to the piston rod?

What kind of job is it?, do you just remove and check sizes and replace with the same size or do they just come in one standard size?

PS.Sorry for the lack of english technical terminology.

Ulises

yeah, the rod that connects piston to crank. if you want to line bore it you will have to pull engine out, strip it completely and send it to a reco joint.

This is copied from the stump dumbdunce thread.
I also know people who have had mechanics change the big end bearings for as little as $400.

LuxyBoy wrote:
Thanks in advance
First
What is involved in replacing the bottom end bearings and can it be done be an at home mechanic? Any special tools required? Should i do anything else at the same time?


Dumbdunce wrote:
big end bearings you need patience and a torque wrench. best to replace them one at a time and rotate the engine so you're always working on a bearing at bottom dead centre. measure the threads of all the bolts when they are out to ensure they haven't stretched. ACL bearings are the go.

I have been told also that it is best to use the new bearing to push the old one out so that you don't risk the thread or any part of the rod touching the crank, would this be right

If you are gunna change your big end bearings measure the crank and look for scoreing on the crank you can get oversize bearings if your crank is worn you will need a micrometer to measure the crank but if it is scored you will need to remove it and either have it linished or machined to remove the scores. if it needs to be machined you will need oversize bearings.
Personaly I wouldn't do Just the big ends I'd do the mains as well same deal with them
How many k's are on the rig anyway might not be worth worring about
if it less than 300 k i wouldn't bother! Any more and its probably worth thinking about if you have to pull the sump anyhow.

personally i think if you need to be asking some of these questions you might want to enlist the assistance of somebody who is in the know when you do the job.. it's big dollars if you stuff up because you wanted to save a buck.

otherone is always return your oil to your sump UNDER the level of the normal fill depth- otherwise you can aerate your oil and the foamy oil can stop the pickup working and starve your engine of oil!

Doesnt the alternator have a return? or is it on the wrong side on an 80 series- i know the lux has a fairly impressive sized return from the alternator vaccum pump to the sump that people have used for turbs

Spud76 wrote:How many k's are on the rig anyway might not be worth worring about
if it less than 300 k i wouldn't bother! Any more and its probably worth thinking about if you have to pull the sump anyhow.

Its a 98' engine with only 130k on it.

Ulises

Ruffy wrote:personally i think if you need to be asking some of these questions you might want to enlist the assistance of somebody who is in the know when you do the job.. it's big dollars if you stuff up because you wanted to save a buck.

Its all good, was only trying to find a way to make a hole in the sump without pulling out the sump... cause there isnt a single leak in the whole engine, so dont want to disturb the sump and seals. But I might unbolt anyway.

Replacing the bearings was brought up by some of the OE members , so I was just taking it into consideration, and trying to find out whats involved.

Dont worry, we know what we are doing , just that we havent replaced bearings before.

Ulises

ferrit wrote:Doesnt the alternator have a return? or is it on the wrong side on an 80 series- i know the lux has a fairly impressive sized return from the alternator vaccum pump to the sump that people have used for turbs

Nah, the alternator is just that, an alternator... no vacuum, no oil.

ferrit wrote:otherone is always return your oil to your sump UNDER the level of the normal fill depth- otherwise you can aerate your oil and the foamy oil can stop the pickup working and starve your engine of oil!

It sounds wierd, ie: the 1HDT has the oil return on the block, way above the oil level line.

If I pull the sump out, I might just end up drilling the block and tapping it.

Ulises

I think you will find that TD returns into a gallery- so its flooded all the time and doesnt have the opertunity to aerate the oil.

ferrit wrote:I think you will find that TD returns into a gallery- so its flooded all the time and doesnt have the opertunity to aerate the oil.

Ooh... my wrong then. Thought it would work cause i found this bit of info.





But probably drilling the sump would be easier anyway.

Ulises

yeah- all it takes is 10mm in the wrong direction and your dumping oil into your coolant- not good!

sumps are cheap and repairable if you screw up too- what you got too loose?

Yeah, very true, I'll probably just stop fooling around and remove and drill the sump.

The most it could cost is a gasket and up to 2hours time? I can live with that.

I just hope it doesnt leak after its finished.

Ulises

Use a good quality gasket silicone on each side of the gasket and you should be fine- i built a 10mm thick gasket for a rocker cover for our tractor from RTV silicone, and then glued it to the head with more silicone and it fixed the leaks including where the rocker cover is warped.

1hz's dont have a sump gasket from factory, the sump is just sealed on with black silastic.

mule75 wrote:1hz's dont have a sump gasket from factory, the sump is just sealed on with black silastic.

Just got myself Loctite silicone gasket maker, in case I do decide to get the sump off. Have used this stuff before on the transfer and gearbox, and it was awesome.

Hi
Get a piece of reo 6 inches long, grind a square 4 sided spear end on it, push that through the sump, the 4 flaps it makes can be threaded with a tap, and fitting loctited in..this is how ARB do it...make sure fitting is atleast 16mm internal holem, as the turbo is verrrrrry sensitive to backpressure
Andrew

dow50r wrote:Hi
Get a piece of reo 6 inches long, grind a square 4 sided spear end on it, push that through the sump, the 4 flaps it makes can be threaded with a tap, and fitting loctited in..this is how ARB do it...make sure fitting is atleast 16mm internal holem, as the turbo is verrrrrry sensitive to backpressure
Andrew

Andrew, that was kinda my initial idea, I am still leaning towards punching a hole, instead of removing the sump.

Ill let you all know what its gonna be, Im getting hands on it next thursday.

Ulises

i would be worried about the spare chunks of steel floating around in the sump after cutting a thread through there..

Ok, its done, and I did it the proper and slow way.

Sump off, drilled a 20mm hole, inserted the pipe and welded from the outside.


Some more pics of the turbo/cooler job. http://www.ozsigns.com/aussie/fj80tohzj ... index.html

Thanks everybody.

Ulises

Well done, all except one fault I picked. From what I can see, the bottom of the intercooler is fixed to the chassis, while the top is fixed to the body.

The body is rubber mounted, and thus the body and chassis move differently. When going over corrugated roads you'll be trying to stretch and compress the intercooler.

How much was the CHRA?