Outer Limits 4x4 Board

CAn anyone with a bit of practicle toyota experience tell me of anything to be especially carefull of when checking out a HDJ100? I know about the front diffs, I have bought, sold and repaired plenty of cars, but not 100 series.
Cheers for your input!

Dont think they are old enough to have any real wear issues yet, but the front cv boots go, and they do like regular wheel alignments. Hardly anything major.

I understand that they have been relatively trouble free, as I havent seen much bad other than the price, but thought I might get some personal experiences.

I have heard of problems with the front wishbone suspension,
I had an issue of 4wd monthly , some poor chap was in the middle of now wear when the shocky separatedfrom the wishbone and it all endered up onder his cruiser.

The tyre came off pulled the steeing rack out , ripped thedriveshaft out.

Cost the bloke thousands in repairs and the recovery of his veihcle.

to putting torsion bar IFS on a 3 ton 4wd was not toyotas move.

Toyota denies there is a problem.

Withmost IFS4wdsthe bumpstops limit downward travel, but with the 100 series IFS its the shockie that limits downward travel

cut and pasted from another thread, on the 100, but the front isnt a huge issue, and is easy to fix properly.

The 100 ifs can be lifted, and we do this on hundreds of them and you will see how we do it in the current [july] overlander mag.

We strengthen the A arms to stop the cracking issues, and we use a specific design washer/shaft/ rubber set up, and lexus hyd suspension bonded bushes in the front struts, and toyota bonded bushes in the rear shocks, which are the same length overall as the OME n74L to suit the 100 ifs, with the Slee diff drop [we bring them into the country] to save cv and cv boot wear.

The big thing is not to exceed 60mm of droop in the front when you set the height, but only do this with the shock we use, as factory are to short, and others except ridepro dont have a heavy duty top washer/rubber set up.

To set them up with the new design heavy duty rear spring we use in the 100, you need a rim to fender measurement from bottom of rim of 770mm, and 5 turns of the adjuster nut = 20mm of height measuring this way in the front.

The reason the A arms crack is from hitting the bump stop, which is a long way inboard, which tries to bend the arm, and they crack to the path of least resistance, which is the torsion bar hole, which seems to make people think the t bar causes the problem, when in fact, stiffer T bars, and better shocks help prevent it.

dinos4x4 wrote:I have heard of problems with the front wishbone suspension,
I had an issue of 4wd monthly , some poor chap was in the middle of now wear when the shocky separatedfrom the wishbone and it all endered up onder his cruiser.

There have been issues with the lower arm cracking, but in the case you mention, my understanding is the failure was caused by the aftermarket shock failing when it came apart, the rest was subsequent damage.