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koni shocks

General Tech Talk

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koni shocks

Post by rampagingturtle »

hey guys, quick brain pick
i have koni shocky's on my 80 series
one has just sprung a gush (not a leak)
shockys are about 4 to 5 years old ihave been happy with them except their adjustability. it is a pain and not very effective
truck has 2 inch lift and no sway bars
should i get them rebuilt or buy something else
if i can get them rebiult ,where in brisvegas does them

thank's in advance
ben
wish ihad another 80 for spares
now have a new toy.4"lifted n locked t/d 105 series. ya f*#@ken hoo
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Post by gqtrol »

mate if your that happy with them havem rebuilt or buy new konis im from melbourne and i deal with a shop called top performance now they are either victoria or australias biggest supplier and repairer of koni shocks give them a call and they will be more than willing to help
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Post by dogbreath_48 »

Does anyone know what sorta money youd be looking at for a rebuild/exchange? And anyone know if you can exchange for a longer shock?

-Stu :)
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

I will phone up my Koni supplier in Springwood and get you a quote for a rebuild.

Shane
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konis

Post by rampagingturtle »

thanhs shane. are there any other reasonably priced shockys that are
adjustable or fairly soft .
body roll does not scare me and the wife just closes her eyes
wish ihad another 80 for spares
now have a new toy.4"lifted n locked t/d 105 series. ya f*#@ken hoo
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

There are no other adjustable shocks I would really recommend.
You can get quality shocks that are valved soft from the factory. There are several options for you depending on what you are looking for?
Austec shocks are made in the same factory as the TJM shocks. However they have two different shocks for each vehicle. Softly valved shocks or firmer shocks and with a life time warranty. Normally about $150 each but I can do them for about $110 each delivered.

A new Koni would be around the $200 mark but I will check on the rebuild price tomorrow.

Call me if you like on 0409 593 414.
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Post by Zute »

I love the idear that you can get your Koni's rebuilt. But what do you do while there away ? :roll:
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Post by ats4x4dotcom »

Anything KOFAP like tjm, efs, etc etc, isnt ideal valving, Koni are ok, but the adjustment is only rebound anyway.

Bilstein for 80's work very well, and are velocity controlled valving, so adjust automatically internally, dependent on piston speed.

Ridepro also do some good valving rates, and are pretty well field tested to arrive at the rates, so if wanting a budget shock, that works well, may be worth a look, and can be delivered anywhere in Aus ;-)
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Post by gu4800 »

4WD Stuff wrote:I will phone up my Koni supplier in Springwood and get you a quote for a rebuild.

Shane
GSA Wholesale I'm guessing!

Good mob to deal with.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

Yeah GSA Wholesale.

You can get your Koni's reconditioned for $95 each if the shaft is all good. If the shaft isn't good throw them away.

Austecs are made by Kofap but the valving is different to the others. They have 2 different shocks for each vehicle. Soft valving for no load and firmer for your loaded up vehicles. However I do agree Bilsteins are number 1 in my books but not adjustable and you have to be very careful you don't damage the bottom half of the shock or you are likely to stuff it. You can get guards for them.
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shockys

Post by rampagingturtle »

thanks for the info guys

shane i will give you a call as soon as the credit card is clear
wish ihad another 80 for spares
now have a new toy.4"lifted n locked t/d 105 series. ya f*#@ken hoo
Posts: 317
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Post by ats4x4dotcom »

4WD Stuff wrote:Yeah GSA Wholesale.

You can get your Koni's reconditioned for $95 each if the shaft is all good. If the shaft isn't good throw them away.

Austecs are made by Kofap but the valving is different to the others. They have 2 different shocks for each vehicle. Soft valving for no load and firmer for your loaded up vehicles. However I do agree Bilsteins are number 1 in my books but not adjustable and you have to be very careful you don't damage the bottom half of the shock or you are likely to stuff it. You can get guards for them.
We supply stone shields with our bilsteins automatically, so as stone damage cant happen, and they are included in the price of the shock from us.

The wall thickness of the Bilstein is alot more than twing tube, and as such, of course, doesnt dent any where as easily as a twin tube..
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Post by rick130 »

ats4x4dotcom wrote: <snip>
Bilstein for 80's work very well, and are velocity controlled valving, so adjust automatically internally, dependent on piston speed.

<snip>
you've been reading too much Billy ad copy.
ALL dampers are velocity sensitive. Change the spring rate on a Billy and it will have to be re-valved, otherwise Heasmans, Quadrant and Bakers re-valve sections would be out of business.
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Post by ats4x4dotcom »

I generally wouldnt reply to such broad general assumptions, and your cpomments sound more like someone who cant understand the cost of value for money, vs sticker price...... but I think you will find you may need to research that a little better, inc your slanderous commets regarding other businesses, because what we use those depts for is "building" our shocks, to our requirements, not "revlaving" them.

And we use alot more than one spring rate, and the Bilstein works exceptionally well with a changing spring rate, like polyairs, where the spring rate is expedential, because the shock valving changes, as the spring rate does.

PM me if you would like more information on the actual differences.
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Post by Bush65 »

ats4x4dotcom wrote:I generally wouldnt reply to such broad general assumptions, and your cpomments sound more like someone who cant understand the cost of value for money, vs sticker price...... but I think you will find you may need to research that a little better, inc your slanderous commets regarding other businesses, because what we use those depts for is "building" our shocks, to our requirements, not "revlaving" them.

And we use alot more than one spring rate, and the Bilstein works exceptionally well with a changing spring rate, like polyairs, where the spring rate is expedential, because the shock valving changes, as the spring rate does.

PM me if you would like more information on the actual differences.
Rick130 knows a thing or 3 about shocks, but I will leave it to him to reply to the comments directed at him.

I would endorse his comment that all dampers (of the type we are discussing) are velocity sensitive.

Also I don't see how, as you imply, that a Bilstein damper can know that the spring rate has been changed, or change the valving when it does. We are talking here of the Bilstein dampers that Joe Average would go out and buy for his 4wd.

I don't know you, and if I am wrong I apologise, but those 2 points I mentioned, in my mind, don't show much credo on your side.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

4WD Stuff wrote:
Yeah GSA Wholesale.

You can get your Koni's reconditioned for $95 each if the shaft is all good. If the shaft isn't good throw them away.

Austecs are made by Kofap but the valving is different to the others. They have 2 different shocks for each vehicle. Soft valving for no load and firmer for your loaded up vehicles. However I do agree Bilsteins are number 1 in my books but not adjustable and you have to be very careful you don't damage the bottom half of the shock or you are likely to stuff it. You can get guards for them.

ats4x4dotcom wrote:
We supply stone shields with our bilsteins automatically, so as stone damage cant happen, and they are included in the price of the shock from us.

The wall thickness of the Bilstein is alot more than twing tube, and as such, of course, doesnt dent any where as easily as a twin tube..
Dobinsons shocks are twin tube as well as having a very thick outer wall. Costs me a fortune to freight.

For the Bilsteins, I believe the stone guards only cover the the front half of the shock still leaving it a bit vulnerable.

Bilsteins have the advantage of carrying more oil so the heat generated can be absorbed more easily than the twin tube shocks. They are also a bit more effective with their damping.

If you dent the twin tube shocks so what, the outer tube is holding gas and as long as you don't puncture it, you keep driving.

With the bottom half of the bilstien shock you have the piston thingo going up and down against the outer wall and if you dent the outer wall ( Big rock or stick bouncing around flung up from your front tyres) than the likelyhood is, the piston thingo won't be able to go up and down.

I am just pointing out a difference between the shocks not saying don't buy the Bilsteins.

I also believe that shocks are velocity senstive by nature.

You can get shocks that are valved differently in the centre part of the shock to give you a softer ride in this section but this is so impractical for 4wd's because the coils are a lot longer and every 4wd has a different weight causing the ride heights to be different in every 4wd so it would be impossible to get your variable shock valving setup to work. To my knowledge only some cars have shocks like this.

The Bilsteins might give you a slightly better ride but I think it is a myth that they will outlast other brands. For me I would buy the Dobinsons or EFS for $95 each or Austecs for $110 and then spend the $300 you save on something else.

If you just get one of your Konis rebuilt than the valving in the new shocks will be different from the old shocks. The reason for this is over time the valving of shocks will get softer. I am not sure if this would be a problem for you.

All shocks will stuff up at some point. This point normally occurs when the shocks get too hot. This happens when you drive for long periods of time over corrugated roads trying to beat the sun.

EDIT: It doesn't help the shocks last very well if you don't have bump stops. Isn't that right Ben. :P
Last edited by Suspension Stuff on Wed Jul 19, 2006 1:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by rick130 »

nc your slanderous commets regarding other businesses,
:? dunno where that came from ???
I've had numerous sets of Bilsteins re-valved. The three companies mentioned all have workshops that re-valve for race and road customers day in day out. They all do good work. What's the problem ?

Bilstein have always claimed their dampers are "self adjusting" meaning they are velocity sensitive, as is every other hydraulic damper out there. They only operate effectively in a relatively narrow spring rate range, if you go too far from the rate/application they are valved for, they have to be re-valved. Case in point is the B46-0253 for the rear of a Range Rover classic, Disco I and Defender 90/110/130. Problem is the OE rear springs range from 150lb/in in an old Rangie to 330lb/in in a 110 to 470lb/in for the 130. They have to be re-valved to suit the rear of a 130, and probably should be for a 110 Defender as well.
Ask whoever builds your Bilsteins for you and they will confirm this.
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