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Fridge Slide
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:19 pm
by klrevo
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:34 pm
by Noisey
Nice work Dean.
That's gunna take up a lot of room in the back of the little paj though.
Good to see things are progressing on the planned trip.
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:37 pm
by -Scott-
Crikey! That's some heavy duty ply for your slide base! If the base bows due to weight, the weight is carried between the points where the fridge contacts the base, and the slide rails. You don't need anywhere near that thickness (unless you plan for other uses) so I'd suggest you cut a nice big rectangular hole out of the middle - it'll save you some weight, and a nice piece of ply like that will come in handy one day. Similarly, your sides don't need to be that solid.
On a slightly different note, where did you find your slides? Mine cost a bomb.
But, if I put aside my jealousy, it's looking good. Be aware that you're setting a precedent for yourself, and this is the standard of detail which shall be maintained.
Keep up the good work,
Scott
paj
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:58 pm
by klrevo
hahahahah scott your a funny man, im just busting outta the closet
nah iv been sitting around lately with not much going on, the fridge sure does take up a lot of room, but until i have the trailer there should be enough room for all the crap, iv got my packing all sussed, theres only ever me and my girl, thank christ!
it does take up heaps of room, the slides scott i picked up from a local cabinet maker had them sitting around, "ohh yeh, you can have em for 20 bucks mate" me all
"umm, yeh for 20 bucks ill take em"
stoked.
the ply is only 15mm, next down woulda been 12mm, i know i know, but atleast this way i know, and the whole thing is dowelled and glued and screwed, with the support piece in the back, i think ill leave it how it is, its sturdy and doesnt weigh THAT much
....
i had fun today, took ages by myself though, was fun though, havent worked with wood since school, and the whole thing came together sqaure and perfecto!
no dowell jig, no markers, just the good old hand eye technique and a pencil.
just gotta get some countersunk bolts for the tie down holes to mount it to, and then carpet the sucka. i had a 62L Tropical Ice box, think its in the pics, anyways so this isnt that much bigger, and its easier to get to, and i can pack on top of it and around it
dean
slowly
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 7:42 pm
by klrevo
hey there guys,
not quite as exciting as hektas SAS but the fridge sliude ios getting there, put ina few hours today, but only a coupld as had lots to do and also gained some new damage on the mighty paj, but the list conquered today includes:
- installed the furniture studs for the removable back with wing nuts. the studs are a self tapper one end and a 5/16 thread the other, lock it off with 2 nuts and insert. works a treat
- installed tie die ancher points for the fride to the slide
- carpeted a lot of the beast using automotive carpet froma local supplier, this stuffs expensive i thought, and attatched using selleys Kwik Grip contact adhesive
and heres what it looks like:
dean
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 7:57 pm
by Overkill
It's looking real good so far!
But how much does it weigh? Can you lift it by yourself?
It's one solid unit.
box
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 8:29 pm
by klrevo
you guys keep saying that, its not that heavy hey....
like i dunno, about 10kg, if that, its more awkward than anything, i wanted it strong so it wouldnt fall to bits, and also cos its only a shorty, i want to be able to still pack on top of it and what not, otherwise a simple slide wouldve done the job, i can definitely sit on it, and dunno, but i rekon i could stand on it, and im about 94kg
it should be good, its goin well so far. everythings turned out perfect and just how i wanted it, shouldnt be too long til its done, just gotta borrow the staple gun of my girlfriend to tidy up the carpet and doneskies!
will be picking up the bolt holes for 3 tie down points as the securing base. ill have to tap these holes out to a normal thread pitch though, as typically mitsu use their own thread and you cant get the bolts longer
ill be tapping them to a 10mm, 1.5 thread i think, dunno yet, and ill buy new longer bolts to suit the ridges in the floor.
dean
Re: box
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:10 pm
by -Scott-
klrevo wrote: ill have to tap these holes out to a normal thread pitch though, as typically mitsu use their own thread and you cant get the bolts longer
Que?
Which bolt holes are you talking about? I've managed to match threads on any bolt I've needed. How did you try to match it?
Scott
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:32 pm
by klrevo
scott, im talking about the bolts that mount for the "loop" tie downs and then also the "bars" in the middle of the rear which im pretty sure the seats lock down onto...
i went to blackwoods and local industrial supplies and they both rekon theyre an odd pitch, and also iv had this problem before trying to sort out a new bolt for the balljoint, ended up replacing with a non factory bolt....
maybe its just me, or maybe its just the local suppliers,
im after the same bolts, but in 50mm lengths, to reach the holes through the 15mm ply....was ultimately after allen head bolts so theyre slimline and the drawer doesnt rub on them, but hey id rather not go tapping shit and leave everything factory, if you can get them scott ill pay you for them
dean
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:51 pm
by -Scott-
I took a sample of the seat hook bolt to my local bolt specialist, and they matched it no trouble. Right now, I have NFI what it is, and I don't have thread pitch gauges to work it out.
For clearance, I cut a large hole in my base, then screwed a steel plate to the underside of my storage so the retaining bolt is recessed. When the storage is fully loaded it doesn't need much retaining anyway, it's mainly to stop the extended fridge/slide combo levering the frame out when everything else is removed.
Cheers,
Scott
fridghe
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 10:21 pm
by klrevo
yeh i dunno hey,
i might have to see if anyone else has them, i took one into blackwoods and bwip, but neither could match it for longer, neither could match it at all...who knows, prob spastic. iv got some thread pitch gauges downstairs im pretty sure, ill check it out tommorrow. wouldve helped first prob.
but yeh, pretty much i want it bolted down cos theres nuthing to hold it in place for when i pull the fridge out to stop it tipping over and out the back of the car.
should be good to have it finished, ill be able to use it for my recovery and all my storage boxes and yeh should be good,
dean
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 6:39 am
by cookie monster
usually the 'non standard' threads on vehicles are a 'metric fine' pitch. they use this pitch to reduce the chances of the bolt unscrewing itself. also because they are only screwed into a shallow thread depth(ie. through a floor), so they need more threads per cm for strength. its probably a M10x1.25 pitch instead of the more std M10x1.5. Blackwoods should be able to source them. if not try 'coventry fasteners'.
cookie monster
studs
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 12:50 pm
by klrevo
yeh thanks cookie monster, i didnt really think to measure the threads myself,
but i got 10mm 1,25 thread... so yeh that sounds right,
thanks mate, i think ill have to go somehwere else who could actually be bothered trying to sell their product.....
dean
fridge
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:11 pm
by klrevo
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:21 pm
by -Scott-
Looks good Dean. I think you'll get used to the ply colour, but it wouldn't be hard to paint it. If you can remove the rails, just hit it with a cheap spray can.
gotta mount a locking mechanism, to stop the fridge from sliding when the brakes or accelerator are applied.
A simple pin through the slide into the base would work. You could drill a second hole to lock the slide in the out position, for fridge access when the car's not perfectly level.
Cheers,
Scott
fridge
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:27 pm
by klrevo
thanks scott,
yeh for the locking pin iv got a couple of small old skool door locks, the barrel locks i think theyre called, i dunno if you meant in from side through the rails and into the base which the fridge sits on, or through the base that the fridge sits into the base of the box, either way this is all i was thinking,
im pretty happy with it, and everything went really really well
dean
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 6:21 am
by cookie monster
if you are going to run the fridge with the compressor to the inside of the box(as in the pics), then i would suggest some ventilation holes in the side of the cabinet. you may find it buids a lot of heat up in there. i run my 50ltr the other way round, so it can vent to the rear door.
cookie monster
fridge
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:52 am
by klrevo
thanks cookie monster,
yeh ideally i would run it the other way round, but find it very hard to understand why on earth Waeco would run the power supply out of the front of the fridge?!!!??!?!
i thought of that the other day and will do something about it definitely as i want it to still ventilate, if need be though i can run it with the back off
dean
fridge
Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:46 pm
by klrevo
just thought id put it up,
it took me ages but i finally worked out a pin to lock the slide into place
1/4" x 3" bolts
dean