Great to see so many MrsBitchy owners actually using their vehicles for what they were designed for.
I've had a SWB Pajero for about the last three years - bought stock.
Since then:- TJM Bull Bar, Lightforce Spotties, Raised suspension, 2" Body lift, Snorkel, Extractors and full exhaust, Custom roof rack, Currently running 31" Cooper STT's (till there dead - then 33's), Sanden A/Con converted to Air pump, Rancho shocks. Am waiting on upgraded torsion bars and have purchased a rear locker (ARB) just not in yet.
This site has been a great help with many of the mods and tech info.
Keep it flow'n - I'm lapp'n it up and can hopefully add some myself.
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Another Newbie in your ranks.
Moderator: -Scott-
Another Newbie in your ranks.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
G'day Noisey, welcome to the forum.
I notice your from Melbourne so you familiar with Toolangi ??
I should get my Paj back in about 3 weeks so we should organize a trip
Sooooo get that locker in and those 33"s on (my advice is to go something more agressive like Simex's or the like and have a set for the road).
Is yours a Gen 1 or 2 Paj, auto/manual ??
Post a pic
Here's one of my POS.
Cheers, Frank.
I notice your from Melbourne so you familiar with Toolangi ??
I should get my Paj back in about 3 weeks so we should organize a trip
Sooooo get that locker in and those 33"s on (my advice is to go something more agressive like Simex's or the like and have a set for the road).
Is yours a Gen 1 or 2 Paj, auto/manual ??
Post a pic
Here's one of my POS.
Cheers, Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Yep - familiar with Toolangi
Much mud = much fun
Sounds like a plan, just have to iron out a few minor things with the new air system (blows a little oil down the line so am looking for an inline oil trap or something of the sort) befor I get the locker put in.
I've got the same body shape as yours only only shorter - in manual.
Will need to look for new CV boots aswell before then.
Much mud = much fun
Sounds like a plan, just have to iron out a few minor things with the new air system (blows a little oil down the line so am looking for an inline oil trap or something of the sort) befor I get the locker put in.
I've got the same body shape as yours only only shorter - in manual.
Will need to look for new CV boots aswell before then.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
No worries, if you need any help just ask we have a reasonable workshop at my work we use for weekend private stuff (free for Paj dudes 
I've tried various aftermarket CV boots but they were all crap the factory ones are by far the strongest for lifted vehicles but are $120Ea
I did get this contact for aftermarket heavy duty CV boots (green color), a guy got them for a Prado (not sure if he can get them for a Mitsu).
Wayne from Pedders Suspension Bundaberg, his Ph No is 07-41533088, maybe worth a call.
Frank.
I've tried various aftermarket CV boots but they were all crap the factory ones are by far the strongest for lifted vehicles but are $120Ea
I did get this contact for aftermarket heavy duty CV boots (green color), a guy got them for a Prado (not sure if he can get them for a Mitsu).
Wayne from Pedders Suspension Bundaberg, his Ph No is 07-41533088, maybe worth a call.
Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Hi noisey,
i'm a mitsu owner in spain. in my country pajeros are a popular choice to do offroading.
Hi frank, i'm happy for you to have your paj in use again. Is it your daily car? have you got a second set of tyres for in road driving or do you use usualy the picture's ones? are your bull bar an ECB one?
Thanks and regards from here
i'm a mitsu owner in spain. in my country pajeros are a popular choice to do offroading.
Hi frank, i'm happy for you to have your paj in use again. Is it your daily car? have you got a second set of tyres for in road driving or do you use usualy the picture's ones? are your bull bar an ECB one?
Thanks and regards from here
Thanks Tom, no it isn't my daily driver (I have a company car).
I have a second set of BFG 33" muds that I use for general use and light trail work (camping trips etc) the Simex's are for the serious stuff.
The bullbar is a TJM T-15 steel unit with a 9000lb Warn winch.
Oh do you support Real or Atletico ??
Cheers, Frank.
I have a second set of BFG 33" muds that I use for general use and light trail work (camping trips etc) the Simex's are for the serious stuff.
The bullbar is a TJM T-15 steel unit with a 9000lb Warn winch.
Oh do you support Real or Atletico ??
Cheers, Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Hi Frank,
i don't support real neither atletico. I live in madrid but i'm from san sebastian, in the basque country, so i support real sociedad of san sebastian, not a very good team. i was seeing an ecb bull bar last week and would like to know how good is it. i don't know anybody that ownes one of it. i really like your rig, congratulations for no so fatal damage.
i will post pictures of mine in the future, i've to prepare much. Only have a few mods: suspension lift 40mm, rancho 5000 shocks (money dictated), and 30x9.59 R15 AT BFG. In the future, 31" MT tyres, snorkel, shocks, bullbar, etc. About the shocks, do you know how are blisteins, ome or Thank you and Regards from spain.
i don't support real neither atletico. I live in madrid but i'm from san sebastian, in the basque country, so i support real sociedad of san sebastian, not a very good team. i was seeing an ecb bull bar last week and would like to know how good is it. i don't know anybody that ownes one of it. i really like your rig, congratulations for no so fatal damage.
i will post pictures of mine in the future, i've to prepare much. Only have a few mods: suspension lift 40mm, rancho 5000 shocks (money dictated), and 30x9.59 R15 AT BFG. In the future, 31" MT tyres, snorkel, shocks, bullbar, etc. About the shocks, do you know how are blisteins, ome or Thank you and Regards from spain.
Tom I don't follow either team but have taken more of an interest in Real since they got Beckham (I support Man United).
With shocks I run Koni's and I really can't fault them at all.
Bilsteins are very good also but are expensive like the Koni's compared to OME.
OME are not a bad shock but they are built to a price, Koni's & Bilsteins are at the top end of the scale. If money allows, the ride of the Bilsteins is excellent as are the Koni's.
My problem is the rear ones are limiting wheel travel so be sure to match the shock length with any suspension lift if you can.
Honestly my car was completely standard when I got it (if the original owner saw it now he'd have a heart attack) my wife can't even bare to look at now
Cheers, Frank.
With shocks I run Koni's and I really can't fault them at all.
Bilsteins are very good also but are expensive like the Koni's compared to OME.
OME are not a bad shock but they are built to a price, Koni's & Bilsteins are at the top end of the scale. If money allows, the ride of the Bilsteins is excellent as are the Koni's.
My problem is the rear ones are limiting wheel travel so be sure to match the shock length with any suspension lift if you can.
Honestly my car was completely standard when I got it (if the original owner saw it now he'd have a heart attack) my wife can't even bare to look at now
Cheers, Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
I have a ECB winch-capable bullbar on my '93 Montero SR:
http://dogwater.net/outings/2002_09_14.php?cp=4
http://dogwater.net/outings/2002_09_14.php?cp=9
http://dogwater.net/outings/2002_09_14.php?cp=4
http://dogwater.net/outings/2002_09_14.php?cp=9
Thanks for the offer on the workshop Frank.
Did a hunt around yesterday arvo for CV boots and just about fell of me stool when they comfirmed the prices I saw in some previous posts of yours. (problem is they are now $145 + GST and have to come from Adelaide) After that prices drop to $22 with $10 being the lowest.
Gunna pick up the cheapest of the lot (maybe no the smartest but I'll use these as a learning experience).
Are there any tricks or "no no's" I should know about before I venture into this on the weekend or any tools that I will need to get before then.
Am going to disconnect the torsion at the same time and try to track down
some of the noises coming from below. Followed the car down a motorbike track on the weekend while a mate was driving to try and track down some of the clunking - everytime the body flexes in a new direction - she go bang.
Any thoughts on where to start
Did a hunt around yesterday arvo for CV boots and just about fell of me stool when they comfirmed the prices I saw in some previous posts of yours. (problem is they are now $145 + GST and have to come from Adelaide) After that prices drop to $22 with $10 being the lowest.
Gunna pick up the cheapest of the lot (maybe no the smartest but I'll use these as a learning experience).
Are there any tricks or "no no's" I should know about before I venture into this on the weekend or any tools that I will need to get before then.
Am going to disconnect the torsion at the same time and try to track down
some of the noises coming from below. Followed the car down a motorbike track on the weekend while a mate was driving to try and track down some of the clunking - everytime the body flexes in a new direction - she go bang.
Any thoughts on where to start
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Noisey wrote:Am going to disconnect the torsion at the same time and try to track down
some of the noises coming from below. Followed the car down a motorbike track on the weekend while a mate was driving to try and track down some of the clunking - everytime the body flexes in a new direction - she go bang.
Any thoughts on where to start
i too am still trying to track down similar noises in my rig. not had much luck too date so far. let me know how u go.
mike.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Yeah I think the torsion bars will always make that "twang" noise when loading/unloading with cycling IFS suspension, my mates 4 Runner does it when flexing out.
I really think the main (annoying) noise is generated from the rear around the trailing arm area. When slowly lifting a front wheel of mine up with a forklift I can reproduce the noise (but it won't do it every time) and it definitely comes from the rear (a loud TWANG)........................
Frank.
I really think the main (annoying) noise is generated from the rear around the trailing arm area. When slowly lifting a front wheel of mine up with a forklift I can reproduce the noise (but it won't do it every time) and it definitely comes from the rear (a loud TWANG)........................
Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Changed the CV boot on the weekend and took the time to pretty much disconnect everthing under the left hand guard. Took both upper and lower ball joints out and even went so far as to slacken off the top control arm. One bolt on the lower ball joint (although tight) has definately seen some movement. When this bolt first "gave" it let out a loud crack - the sound the car sometimes gives when in full lock on right hand corners (at speed). Cleaned, greased and re-tightend - so far no noise.
The only other slight concern is the upper control arm bushes. With the nuts on the end of the shaft slackened off the main shaft has a "bit" of movement (more at the rear than the front). Will track down a kit or new bushes and replace them. My car has never had creeking suspension but with everything disconnected the top control arm had very little movement and a hell of a noise when forced up and down by hand. Dropped some oil between the bushes from the top and allowed to soak - 20 mins later had all movement and no noise.
Can anyone tell me what diameter of the hole in the chasis mount for the rear trailing arm and whether or not it is elongated or a perfect circle??
The only other slight concern is the upper control arm bushes. With the nuts on the end of the shaft slackened off the main shaft has a "bit" of movement (more at the rear than the front). Will track down a kit or new bushes and replace them. My car has never had creeking suspension but with everything disconnected the top control arm had very little movement and a hell of a noise when forced up and down by hand. Dropped some oil between the bushes from the top and allowed to soak - 20 mins later had all movement and no noise.
Can anyone tell me what diameter of the hole in the chasis mount for the rear trailing arm and whether or not it is elongated or a perfect circle??
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
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