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Help wiring Lightforce 240 XGT's
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 12:41 pm
by Buckshot
I didn't buy the Lightforce wiring loom with them.What will I need to wire them up myself?Can I build a loom which is equal or better than the Lightforce one?Would it be cheaper just to buy a Lightforce one?
Would a place like JAYCAR have all the bits I need?
Cheers
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 12:58 pm
by GU4me
all you need is
narva 6mm wire rated at 50amps $30 for a 20m roll
2x connectors $10
and 2x 40 amp relays $20
this is how a wired my lights
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 4:22 pm
by DamTriton
5 metres 6mm2 wire, red
1 metre 6mm2 wire, black
switch
3 metres smallish wire (for relay activation)
Relay 5 pin 20+20A, DPST (switches one input onto two outputs) Not "CHANGEOVER"
inline fuse + 25A fuse (high current blade type, usually comes with 300mm leads both ends)
Small inline fuseholder, 5A fuse (or use a similar blade type to above)
Connectors and crimp tool, (Kmart boxed set, $10 or so).
Total cost ~$35-40.
Two isolated circuits.
1. Smallish wire. Wire from high beam of headlight to small fuseholder (5A), other side of fuseholder to switch, switch to relay coil, other end of coil to ground.
2. 6mm2 wire. +12V from battery to fuse, other side of fuse (25A) to one side of switch contacts ("common"), other side of switch ("switched") contacts to lights (2 wires, one longer than the other), other side of lights to earth.
There are numbers on the bottom of the relay identifying the connections to the relay:
85 & 86, Relay coil
30 "common"
87 "switched"
Some ppl use a terminal block (240V 15A x 8 terminals) to mount everything to for ease of assembly and later mods.
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:23 pm
by mudmacaca
the shorter then cable from the battery to relay and then to the lights the better. Less voltage drop = Brighter ligts and less current.
I got some lights on the weekend that came with a wiring loom it took longer to bolt the lights on than to install the wiring loom. The wiring loom retails for about 45 bucks but you dont get a wire crimper or any left over spares.
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:26 pm
by -Scott-
mudmacaca wrote:the shorter then cable from the battery to relay and then to the lights the better. Less voltage drop = Brighter ligts and less current.
No. For more light you need more power dissipated in the globe, which generally means
more current.
An upgraded wiring loom reduces losses in the wiring, but it does NOT reduce total power consumption. If battery voltage is constant, and you reduce resistance in the circuit, current will increase.
And please, can we avoid arguments about non-linear resistance in the filament?
Scott
Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:08 am
by Suspension Stuff
No. For more light you need more power dissipated in the globe, which generally means more current.
An upgraded wiring loom reduces losses in the wiring, but it does NOT reduce total power consumption. If battery voltage is constant, and you reduce resistance in the circuit, current will increase.
And please, can we avoid arguments about non-linear resistance in the filament?
Scott
Is it noticeable difference to upgrade your wiring from what lightforce provide and how do I get more power dissipated in the globe?
Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:12 am
by drivesafe
HI 4WD Stuff, to get more “ power dissipated “, you have to increasing the voltage.
Increasing the voltage automatically and proportionately increases the current, which collectively increase the brightness of the light.
To get both higher voltage and current through the light, you increase the size of the wire from what is originally connected to the light and is usually inadequate.
Cheers.
Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 8:05 am
by DamTriton
drivesafe wrote:HI 4WD Stuff, to get more “ power dissipated “, you have to increasing the voltage at the globe base.
Increasing the voltage automatically and proportionately increases the current, which collectively increase the brightness of the light. Reducing the resistance of the loom gives more voltage available at the base of the globe ie. 14-.5=13.5V (new loom) vs 14-1.5=12.5V(OE loom)
To get both higher voltage and current through the light, you increase the size of the wire from what is originally connected to the light and is usually inadequate. As bigger wire as reasonable (8Ga feeder to relays under bonnet if rear mounted battery), with as shorter run as possible with the smaller cables. 6mm2 minimum anywhere.
Cheers.
Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 5:03 pm
by Bartso
6mm? how come the kit comes with 2.5 mm how much current does one light pull?
Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 6:13 pm
by DamTriton
Bartso wrote:6mm? how come the kit comes with 2.5 mm how much current does one light pull?
one 100 watt lamp is about 8 amps, BUT the bulk of the light output occurs in the last 1.5-2 volts so you really would want to reduce the resistance in the loom as much as possible. This also allows the fittment of a second set of driving lights using the same relays and switching, or the fittment of higher powered lights to the driving lights (12/24V aircraft landing lights - the ducks guts) Again, the manufacturers of the loom are probably working to a price too...
Posted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:54 pm
by mistaboz
Anyone know where I can get a set of aircraft landing light at 12 volts?
Anyone have a pair for sale?
Pm please.
Cheers PAUL..
Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:58 pm
by L33nsta
If you want a higher voltage for your driving lights and its not your wiring. May be try and wire your lights directly from your alternator.
The volage will be slightly higher as generally the manufactures will not put in a big wire between the alternator and the battery.