Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What would be the average price for an internal 6 point rollcage for a 2dr Rangie...

Who should I speak to in Vic for good prices

try cheezy racing in montrose
hes on this forum and hell give ya a good price(im preety sure he does cages)
prolly around the 1000 +mark

I posed the same question to PGS in mornington Vic a week ago (except I asked for 4 point) and was told approx $550 fitted

are you serious... what sort of tube...

try brown davis,street'n'strip engineering,mcdonald bros. racing
i also know a guy in geelong that does good custom work,pm me if you need info.

Dont know but I was told that there is only one tube that is good enough to use a a roll cage.

PS If you go for a four point I am after one to! Might be cheaper somewhere!

When you say 6 point what does that refer to ?? Is it the amount of fixed points to the body??

Not really up with the play on cage terminology....

Bodge wrote:When you say 6 point what does that refer to ?? Is it the amount of fixed points to the body??

Not really up with the play on cage terminology....

Yes

Bodge wrote:When you say 6 point what does that refer to ?? Is it the amount of fixed points to the body??

Not really up with the play on cage terminology....

6 point means one front hoop just behind the windscreen, another hoop just behind your head and then two struts that go on an angle from the hoop behind your head to the rear of the car. Should also have diagonal bracing and stuff normally in the roof and the rear hoop.

Just having 6 location points behing your seat doesent count.

Sam

On the topic of cages does anybody know where I can get a copy/pictures of the external cages that are common in the UK for the 110 wagons. I have a local engineering and welding place that will do the work but they want some designs to work from. - Do all the mount points on the 'hips' break through and go down to the chassis?

Pictures etc. Anything will help.

Cheers

Right got it on the points thing.

There is an unresolved [for me] debate amongst some of the guys here as to whether it is advisable to bolt the cage down to the body or the chassis.

My understanding of the two main points of contention is that if you fix to the chassis then there is a possiblilty that the body can rip away from the chassis and the cage pulls through it which could be a disaster for the occupants as their seats are tied to the body [in a rangie]. If you fix to the body only then the cage and body can rip away from the chassis and keep the structure of the 'cocoon' intact.

The pro Chassis guys argue that the body just aint strong enough and the cage is likey to push though it crushing the occupants on the way...

Does anyone have any first hand experience of either way or is there an accepted standard [for Rangies - cos every vehicle is constructed differently].

What have you guys done with yours?

grungle99 wrote:On the topic of cages does anybody know where I can get a copy/pictures of the external cages that are common in the UK for the 110 wagons. I have a local engineering and welding place that will do the work but they want some designs to work from. - Do all the mount points on the 'hips' break through and go down to the chassis?

Pictures etc. Anything will help.

Cheers

I have a few old LRO mags with articles on these cages and pics of LR's with them fitted. I could dig them out if interested and send/fax photocopies - will take me a few days though. They were all made (even the "genuine" LR ones) by a UK company called "safety devices" - they might have a website with pics. The full cage was basically a 6-point cage the 3 hoops had plates (each plate had 4 bolts) which bolted to an identical plate on the inside of the body (either side of the bits you call "hips") then the tube continued all the way to the chassis. Two of the mounts were on the mudguard just in front of the firewall, two were just behind the doors, and 2 were at the back.

Ben

If it is not too much trouble that would be appreciated. My email is grungle@tpg.com.au

I have checked their www and they have some photo's but nothing too detailed. Have requested info buit don't know if they are interested in Aussies....

I have rolled a Landy before (IIA ute) and it was the four inch roll pipe that saved me and a mates lives. Blocked the highway for a few hours while we cleaned up the mess. It was a hire trailer with faulty brakes that sent us over. We ended up standing the old girl up, using it to clear the highway and then drove it hoem some 40Kms, pretty bent. Wrecked rear tub, bent chassis in two places, moved the firewall forward three inches, tore the roof open. wrecked one door and mirror (leaning against road) etc etc...

Want a cage for the wagon!!!!


Thanks in advance for the help.

Grungle

This it what you want felas

http://www.safetydevices.co.uk/

posed the same question to PGS in mornington Vic a week ago (except I asked for 4 point) and was told approx $550 fitted

FARK really
shit if its that cheap im gonna get one for my 60
ohhhhh mate im imagining it now
sweeeeeeettt

Try some of these UK LRO links, there is friggn heaps of them on this site..
Good luck....
http://www.british4x4.nl/TheSpecialist/links.htm

FRIGGIN LINK-FINALLY...

On the topic of cages does anybody know where I can get a copy/pictures of the external cages that are common in the UK for the 110 wagons.

I am thinking of putting a plate between the upright mounts under the floor so that the cage could only push down a couple of inches if the body was squashed. This would also mean it isn't attached to the chassis

There is an unresolved [for me] debate amongst some of the guys here as to whether it is advisable to bolt the cage down to the body or the chassis.

My understanding of the two main points of contention is that if you fix to the chassis then there is a possiblilty that the body can rip away from the chassis and the cage pulls through it which could be a disaster for the occupants as their seats are tied to the body [in a rangie]. If you fix to the body only then the cage and body can rip away from the chassis and keep the structure of the 'cocoon' intact.

Try this guy, he's the master of UK off-road racing cages.

<malcolm@whitbread-offroad.co.uk>

Dave