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Factory Rear Locker Questions
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 2:06 pm
by Hekta
I've reading all the threads I can find about Factory Rear Lockers and just want to clarify a few things. Any info/advice/accuracy regarding these statements will be appreciated.
A lot of the info I've read has been about the 3.5 ltr so hopefully it applies to the 3ltr aswell.
1. The Factory locker only needs about 6-8 PSI to lock in as opposed to the ~100 odd that ARB uses.
2. The compressor pumps up to the required pressure and seals the line, when the locker is turned off it unseals and winds back to let the pressure off
3. It is possible to use another compressor providing you can regulate the pressure down to suit. - Anyone done this ?
4. All Gen 2 Jabbers have the wiring loom for the compressor whether they have the locker or not. - Does this include the ECU ?
Another question, a few threads have mention that you can use the ARB locker switch instead, how does this differ from a normal on/off switch ?
Where is the factory position for the switch ?
I'll post more if I think of them.
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 2:12 pm
by Ian Sharpe
1. yep
2. yep
3. yep, I am thinking about using a pressure regulator with the ARB compressor that runs my front locker, as I believe I have a faulty Mitsu compressor.
4. I believe so, even though I made up my own wiring & didnt use the Mitsu locker ECU.
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 2:30 pm
by NJV6
Factory position ffor the switch is down bside the power outlet in the lower dash in front of the gear levers.
If you are going to use the ECU then it is req'd, they are not in the vehicle unless it has a locker (if that was your question). It's a worthwile mod.
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 2:55 pm
by Hekta
Out of interest and because I have a Mitsu dealers up the street from work, I just went and asked about the factory compressor's price and availability.
The guy said 1 kajillion dollars and put is little finger in his mouth like Dr Evil.
OK maybe I imagined that
they're $539 and have to come from Japan
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 3:08 pm
by Ian Sharpe
Mate, nothing surprises me about Mitsu prices, $500 bucks for a pissy 5psi plastic crap compressor, yep sounds about right!.
Re: Factory Rear Locker Questions
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 7:08 pm
by -Scott-
Hekta wrote:Another question, a few threads have mention that you can use the ARB locker switch instead, how does this differ from a normal on/off switch ?
The ARB locker switch has about eight contacts, and two lights.
One light is wired to dash lights, although it's freakin' bright, and the switches get quite warm - I'll throw a resistor in-line next time I'm in there. Other light is "on" indicator, they're separate lights with separate "windows."
The switches also have two "power out" terminals, used for daisy-chaining in the ARB wiring harness. The ARB harness supplies power in order: compressor - 1st (normally rear) locker - 2nd (normally front) locker. If the preceding switch isn't turned on, the next switch doesn't have power. I hope that made sense.
Many people ignore ARB's harness, and wire the switches however they like.
Whether you want to "daisy chain" or not, I suggest getting the ARB switches - I reckon they're pretty flash!
And I've heard the price is quite reasonable...
Cheers,
Scott
Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 6:19 am
by Ian Sharpe
Also the Mitsu switch requires the use of a latch relay if you dont wire it thru the ECU.
The ARB switches are just a simple (thought nice colour etc, with nice pics on it) rocker switch, its either on or its off.
The Mitsu switch is about $90 too. I had one when I just had the rear locker. But I changed to ARB when I got the front locker, so all my swithes including compressor switch are now simialr to each other.
Oh & also the ARBs are all marked separately , is rear locker, front locker & compressor.
Check one out at ARB, IMO they are really nice.
cheers
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 11:34 am
by Hekta
Ian Sharpe wrote:Hi NJ,
yes I wired it up so that when the locker is engaged the dash light is on.
Important that you check that the switch in the locker actuially works before you put it all in, cant rememeber if you need to take the diff apart to change the switch, all I recall is that it was $90 for a new switch.
Anyway once you have it all set up, its simply a matter of connecting up a switch wire from the diff switch to the light on the dash. If you take out the dash , its pretty easy , you can see which light it is. I just traced the circuit back to the wiring loom & joined it there.
Just a note though is that you need to power the diff switch from a separate source than your ARB switch. Because although you might have turned on/off your ARB switch the locker can actually take a while to lock/unlock. I think I sourced a power supply from the blue wire in the harness near where the factory pump goes, ie in the under seat compartment.
Also if you decide to use the factory locker loom & connector you must ensure the joint does not break down by movement, mine did & gave false readings, so I just cut out the factory connector & soldered all the wires together.
There is a bit of mucking around with the wiring but its all doable. Youll have to drill a 3/4 hole in the body to get the loom & air hose thru to the pump. Make sure you use a grommett so the wires etc dont get damaged.
With the diffs , yes I did swap over to 4.90s, I got all the work done by a diff shop, the front diff is a bastard to change they reckon.
I really didnt find it worth while but thats just my opinion alone.
But as you have to change , you could give it a try I guess..
Just write if you need any more help.
cheers
Does the light on the dash work like this when not using the Factory wiring ? When done this way does the light only come on when the locker is definately engaged ? not just the switch being turned on ?
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 7:37 am
by Ian Sharpe
GiddAy Heckta,
If you dont use the factory ECU then you have to wire up the dash light by another method.
What I did was run the active from the switch in the diff to the dash light behind the cluster.
You have to take out the cluster (no big deal) & trace wich circuit the diff lock light is on.
Once you identify what circuit , just splice the above wire into the harness wiring.
In order to get a true indication of the status of the locker you must power the switch in the locker from a source other than the switch you use to activate the locker. I found a suitable active in the wiring harness where the factory pump goes. (rear seat , right hand side, ) |It was a blue wire from memory.
That way your dash light is independant from the operating switch.
cheers
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:36 pm
by Hekta
Ian Sharpe wrote:
In order to get a true indication of the status of the locker you must power the switch in the locker from a source other than the switch you use to activate the locker. I found a suitable active in the wiring harness where the factory pump goes. (rear seat , right hand side, ) |It was a blue wire from memory.
That's great, what I wanted to hear.
I have an idea...
Would a pump like this (eg like the lumbar support seats, or blood pressure pump) work? I think it would pump up to enough pressure to engage the locker. If the switch in the diff was wired up to the dash light, that let me know when to stop pumping. Plus it's cheap
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 4:36 pm
by Tiny
for the pump, what about a cheap kmart pump, pipe for a tank and a 240v compressor pressure switch
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 4:37 pm
by Miyagi
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:09 pm
by Ian Sharpe
I reckon it would work, the pressure that the locker uses in very low , about 6psi,
you can actually engage it by blowing into the end of the air supply tube!!
i've tried that when the centre was out of the car
it would certainly be cheaper than the factory pump.
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:13 pm
by J Top
But the risks from poor or patial engagement are high, ask NJV6
J Top
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:49 pm
by NJV6
Yes, don't risk not enough pressure.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:40 am
by Hekta
Ian Sharpe wrote:you can actually engage it by blowing into the end of the air supply tube!!
4 Metres of fish tank air line - $2
One way valve from wrecked car - $0
Blow like hell on the end of the tube and drive forward very slowly until you hear it lock in & enjoy maximum traction from the rear wheels - Priceless
J Top wrote:But the risks from poor or patial engagement are high, ask NJV6
J Top
I am scared of this, so it's only a temporary solution, but it works
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 2:11 pm
by NJV6
Do you have a pump?
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 2:31 pm
by Hekta
Not as yet.
