Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Has anyone done this before? If so do you have the measurements and what you did to the cab mounts on the chassis to line up with the tub mounts? I know someone who has done it with a 75 series so I can ask him, but that is only about a third of the mounts.
I only want info from those who have done this conversion or know specs and problems in doing it. It will save me a lot of research.
Cheers.
Dave.
Ps Any pics would be great as well.

won't you have issues with wheel wells lining up (i.e. the 80 wheelbase is heaps longer)

The 80 is only 250mm longer. The front wheels move forward slightly Which is a positive for approach angle and not a problem because of the shape of the 70 guards.
The back will probably move back a little as well but not enough that it cannot be cut out of the guards (arches).
The back end is where most of the extra length is, and that can be cut of.
To clarify it is a bj73 MID wheel base. I may have misled you by saying a 70.
Cheers.
Dave.

midi73 wrote:The 80 is only 250mm longer. The front wheels move forward slightly Which is a positive for approach angle and not a problem because of the shape of the 70 guards.
The back will probably move back a little as well but not enough that it cannot be cut out of the guards (arches).
The back end is where most of the extra length is, and that can be cut of.
To clarify it is a bj73 MID wheel base. I may have misled you by saying a 70.
Cheers.
Dave.

nah i figured it was a midi by your username. just thought there was heaps more wheelbase difference than that. never measured it tho

what do you hope to gain by throwing it on a 80 chassis?

COILS COILS COILS COILS, and also the steering setup is behind the diff and the front wheel being forward will be a bit of a benefit as well.
I think it is the easiest and best way to set up coils on the midi gaining the other added benefits. Also the easiest way to get engineered.
The bloke who did it on his 75 only needed to get a surruget number for the chassis and it was regoed.

midi73 wrote:COILS COILS COILS COILS, and also the steering setup is behind the diff and the front wheel being forward will be a bit of a benefit as well.
I think it is the easiest and best way to set up coils on the midi gaining the other added benefits. Also the easiest way to get engineered.
The bloke who did it on his 75 only needed to get a surruget number for the chassis and it was regoed.

fair enough, but considering the number of 40 series that have been engineered with 80 series diffs and coils, why not just graft them on?

Because of the other benefits that I want to achieve.

midi73 wrote:Because of the other benefits that I want to achieve.

just thinking it'd be an easier way. what else are you trying to achieve?

I cant really see it being any easier than moving some mounts on an 80 chassis. But I just want some info from someone who has done it so as to save time and figuring out later when I do it.
Benefits are front wheels forward steering box back and out of harms way and also the box being back on the chassis puts it out of the way of the bullbar. I will be moving it all back puting the winch back into the grill. This will also help with approach angle.

um, nice avatars, thaught you were talking to yourself for a second!

midi73 wrote:I cant really see it being any easier than moving some mounts on an 80 chassis. But I just want some info from someone who has done it so as to save time and figuring out later when I do it.
Benefits are front wheels forward steering box back and out of harms way and also the box being back on the chassis puts it out of the way of the bullbar. I will be moving it all back puting the winch back into the grill. This will also help with approach angle.

you could pretty much design your own wheelbase with the coil setup. and using 80 diffs would mean you'd move your steering stuff around anyway.

Shadow wrote:um, nice avatars, thaught you were talking to yourself for a second!

Lol. Yes I can see how you would think that.

i would think you would have to cut some of the guts out of the chassis to get it to fit propperly.
not a problem with your mates ute
and wheelbase changes are more work to engineer than suspension and diff swaps. especially if you are using all parts from another vehicle.......... all you have to get checked is your trailing arm, panhard, and shock/coil mount welds

call an engineer and ask before you decide to put a midi cab on a lwb chassis

badger wrote:i would think you would have to cut some of the guts out of the chassis to get it to fit propperly.
not a problem with your mates ute
and wheelbase changes are more work to engineer than suspension and diff swaps. especially if you are using all parts from another vehicle.......... all you have to get checked is your trailing arm, panhard, and shock/coil mount welds

call an engineer and ask before you decide to put a midi cab on a lwb chassis

No, I believe you dont have to cut the guts out. The wheel base is only 200mm longer.
Spoke to the bloke who did it to the ute today. He cut all the mounts of the 70 and welded them onto the 80 chassis. He mounted the cab back about 100mm, one of his workers had a midi and they did some measuring up and by moving the cab back it eliminates the wheel in the rear wheel arch prob. you then cut of what you dont need at the back of the chassis. So apart from the rear of the chassis and the cab mounts nothing else on the chassis gets modified.
I feel this would be fairly easy to engineer (providing cabmount welds pass and rear of chassis welds pass. Both chassis and body basically factory items.
I am willing to stand corrected.
Cheers.
Dave.

as i said call a decent engineer and run the 2 ideas by them
see wich one is the go

mab even call 2 or 3

i was going to put a ute cab on a 70 chassis but it wasn't quite a bolt on exercise

heres a 75 cab sitting on a 80 chassis

yes its just for shits and giggles

but the pic may help you

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 117#864117

ice who told u it wasnt a bolt on excercise?

i have all the chassis diagrams for all 7x series (including bundera)
and the firewall and b pillar body mounts are in exactly the same points
only thing is you have to use a bundera front end if you put a ute cab on a bundy chassis as it is about 150mm shorter from fire wall to rad support pannel

ute cab onto any of the other chassis is a direct bolt up using original front end and all


btw your project looks awesome
im bout to put same gear under my bundy

Badger... i went over the chassis drawings and the mounts arn't quite the same has been ages since i looked it was easier engineering wise to use a 75 chassis

i got hold of a 75 chassis to use instead as the mounts are in a factory position for the body...

in anycase im currently taking the body off the swb to go to the cancer heaven for cars

so when i get that done ill pop one of the ute tubs i have on it to double check for anyone else contemplating

Ice wrote:i was going to put a ute cab on a 70 chassis but it wasn't quite a bolt on exercise

heres a 75 cab sitting on a 80 chassis

yes its just for shits and giggles

but the pic may help you

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 117#864117

Thank you for the reply. No it doesnt help but it is a good laugh. I will try and get a pic of the 75 that has been put on an 80 chassis and post it up some time.
Cheers.
Dave.

Why don't you save yourself alot of hassle and a lotta $$$ and just use a 80series with an 80 series body?

What a bloody crazy idea

gotoy wrote:Why don't you save yourself alot of hassle and a lotta $$$ and just use a 80series with an 80 series body?

What a bloody crazy idea

Cause I dont want a bloody 80

midi73 wrote:

gotoy wrote:Why don't you save yourself alot of hassle and a lotta $$$ and just use a 80series with an 80 series body?

What a bloody crazy idea

Cause I dont want a bloody 80

Then just use a bloody 75...

ice would u mind sendimg me a copy of your chassis diagrams
as mine seem to contradict yours if what u are saying is so :S

badger. ill have to have a dig for them... in the yota books here somewhere

from memory it was the rear mount width or the tyre hitting the cab or both

wasnt worth the hassel using the swb chassis i think a midi chassis would of been a better choice...

but hey a 75 will do all the same and everything does fit then

I know someone who put a 80 series body on an 60 chassie and had it engineered only for the RTA to knock it back and give the engineer a good kick in the wallet, the owner had to scrap the idea and start again.
Check that it will pass before you start and save yourself a lot of $$$$$$.

CV Smasher wrote:I know someone who put a 80 series body on an 60 chassie and had it engineered only for the RTA to knock it back and give the engineer a good kick in the wallet, the owner had to scrap the idea and start again.
Check that it will pass before you start and save yourself a lot of $$$$$$.

why would you put an 80 body on a 60???????????????? isn't that going a bit backwards?