Outer Limits 4x4 Board

3" lift, H260 rear diff out of a 4.8 wagon, GQ ute chassis. Standard upper arms, custom lower arms made by 3rd party. I think the lower arms are too long so i pulled them out and tried to measure how long they should be. They seem to be ok so i figure im measuring them worng.





you can see how the springs are on a bit of an angle, nothing way out, but not right. It does have a bad vibration when driven as well but worse at low speeds.

any ideas???

edit, the 2nd pic looks worse then it is, the pinion does not point down as it looks, it is actually more level than that.

Have u got the original lower arms, Try chucking them in. It looks like the lower arms are too long.

If the two pinion outputs are not parallel, I'm sure you would know this ??, you'll get vibrations.

You'll need a tool like that to measure the angle of both outputs and suss out what in the heck needs to happen. I'd say you need to kick your rear pinion up a touch perhaps by shortening your rear arms.

Else it will mean lengthening upper arms and then moving your upper coil perch to correct the missalignment.

Yay for coils

standard GQ/GU lower trailing arms measure 677 i believe from centre to centre of the bush, what do yours measure at?

Would taller springs fix it at all?

ozy1 wrote:standard GQ/GU lower trailing arms measure 677 i believe from centre to centre of the bush, what do yours measure at?

im not sure, but i was just about to post up and ask what the standard length should be!! thanks dude.

so seeing as they are already lengthened, should i leave them a little longer or bring them back to stock. They are heavy duty walled now anyway so i would like to keep them at that.

like i said at the moment running 3" raised, but i have some 6" (looks like 7" to me) coils to go in after i get a few more bits.

you might find the taller springs will help ya, but id say that the pinion will still be a bit on the low side, you really do want to keep your output flange and pinion around the same angle, to stop ya vibes,

Did ludachris make your arms? If so ask him how much longer they are over standed. And i think he makes them to suit a 6 inch spring.

not not wrote:Would taller springs fix it at all?

i think so, but im not putting them in yet. do lowers always have to be changed when going to a 6 or 7" coil, WHITEWIZARD reckons he is still running standard length.

Im not sure what these arms were built to suit, but they dont suit my setup ATM. and i really need to do a bit of testing to make sure shit isnt gonna fall off at round 3...........

not not wrote:Did ludachris make your arms? If so ask him how much longer they are over standed. And i think he makes them to suit a 6 inch spring.

nah, cris didnt do these ones. I have been told they are "about" 40mm longer

Perhaps with a lwb the standed ones are ok . I never had a problem with 6 inch springs. Maybe a bit diffrent with a ute chassis.

im just gonna keep cutting tilli get them right tomorow

thanks guys

If all else fails bring out the gas axe

a h260 rear in a gu mick has shorter arms than a h233, so if the arms you had made are 40mm longer, they are proberly over 100mm to long. any questions call me

giantracing wrote:a h260 rear in a gu mick has shorter arms than a h233, so if the arms you had made are 40mm longer, they are proberly over 100mm to long. any questions call me

thanks chris, do you know what the actual length is, or do you have some laying around that you dont need........

sorry dude non just cut yours down

ok, ive been toying with it a while trying to get the angles even. Can i have the driveshaft coming out of the diff dead straight and then only the uni at the top end will actually "flip". will this cause any vibration?

well nobody had a reply for me so i just did it, its all sweet now. drives like it used to, only better. All thats left to do now is get some sheet and weld it on top of the tray, add some mudflaps and im all done.