Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys before anyone flames be and gives me the use the search line, allready have and didnt find much!!!!


Just had a thought talking about gq radius arms, has anybody used a set of 80 series arms and put them in a gq, I know that the diif end all bolts straight up but the mounting end to the chasis has an eye unlike the gq's which have a pin setup.

So in theory if you went and saw one of the custom guys and had them fab a mount onto the bottom of the current mounting to suit the 80 series radius arms, you would not only have a cheap set of drop arms/boxes that would alleviate some of the castor issues experienced with a lift, but also as the new arms would not be relying on the squashing of a rubber bush, instead they can rotate unhindered on the new pin and eye mounting the front end should flex a bit more.

SO WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK

any ideas or feedback, has it all been done before? doe it work? or would it work?

Just buy a set of Dale's 2dextreme arms. They're awsome and well priced.

Its been done and give good flex. But personally like Big GQ said get a set of Dales arms, I'm going down this path very soon myself.

BIG GQ wrote:Just buy a set of Dale's 2dextreme arms. They're awsome and well priced.

More info pls, any pix.

ta.

how much are dales arms where can i view pics and info

thanks guys

oh and do dales arms still use a rubber bush at the mounting end

Check out his add in the for sale section. Yes they use rubber bushes.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=82835

im sure they are a great product but they are $1030, also they would not flex as well as the set up that i describbed as they are still relying on the rubber bush for flex instead of the round bush on the 80 series radius arms.

The thing is i can get 80 series radius armns fro $150 and have just got a price of between 100 and 150 dollars to have some mounts made for the arms, even if the arms needed new bushes thats still dirt cheap.

am i being a tight ass? i just think that for the money the 80's idea will be alot better and its not like parts will be a prob and will flex awesome.

Dude go for it then. However you would not be the first to go down this path. I'm sure that if this worked as well in practice as it does in theory then wreckers would not be able to keep up with the demmand of 80 series arms.

Mine have only a pooftenth less flex then the 5 link had. Set the car up right and it will flex.

just need to check the bushes at the front of the arm are in the same place for patrols and cruisers, if so this would be a great set up. And would actually make the drop box easier to make than one for a standard patrol.

I dont think they'll match up, but who knows. keep me posted

Like BIG GQ i have a set of Dale's in mine and you get the flex of a 5 link without the out off control road handling. Mine have been in for 3 years and i have only replaced the rear bushes once and have not replaced the front yet.

80 series arms do require the rubber bush at the chassis to compress to achieve full flex [ common misconceotion ], even with standard length shocks. ie; as one wheel travels up & the other one down on the front axle, both control arms try to twist along their length [ torsional flex ], of course they won't so the bushes compres at both ends. Much like the Rangies, the Patrols front arms do allow this torsional flex to occur with zero binding, but the bushes do bind during travel. Here's a trick u may want to try on your Patrol or Rangie front arms. I cut down the aft bushing by half , this reduces the the rubber's resistence by a third & made a measurable diff on my rangie. I did the same to the rear of my rangie too, but can't be done on Patrol. You could cut down the bush on both sides of the chassis mount, but you axle will move rearward. One more thing Holey bushes!

new shaped arms still dont fix the geometry issues a big lift creates, and drop boxes are the best fix for this.

Regardless of wether it costs more, or not, the 80 arm set up would be the way to go, as you described.

We have played with this set up, using longer arms, and 80 bush behind the gearbox x member, and found it keeps the geometry correct, and offers 6" more "free" travel in the front.

mudmav wrote:hey guys before anyone flames be and gives me the use the search line, allready have and didnt find much!!!!


Just had a thought talking about gq radius arms, has anybody used a set of 80 series arms and put them in a gq, I know that the diif end all bolts straight up but the mounting end to the chasis has an eye unlike the gq's which have a pin setup.

So in theory if you went and saw one of the custom guys and had them fab a mount onto the bottom of the current mounting to suit the 80 series radius arms, you would not only have a cheap set of drop arms/boxes that would alleviate some of the castor issues experienced with a lift, but also as the new arms would not be relying on the squashing of a rubber bush, instead they can rotate unhindered on the new pin and eye mounting the front end should flex a bit more.

SO WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK

any ideas or feedback, has it all been done before? doe it work? or would it work?

Don't know why you think 80s arms will bolt to GQ diff.
80s front arms will not bolt up to GQ diff without major modifications.
Drop boxes are the cheapest of the good options, other than going replacement arms.
cheers

80's arms do work but i found out their is alot more work involved than i thought but u have worked out an even eastier option that is a bolt on at the diff end with absolutley no modifications and you just need to make a mount like i have described in my previouse post

Have played with this myself and found the best setup was to get a late GU arm that the end pin screws out of and machines up an eye end that screwed back into its place. Fabbed up a mount at the chassis end and the diff end bolts straight up. Caster was fixed by dropping the chassis end as per drop boxes.
I think I just gave away another one of my tricks

Cheezy4x4 wrote:Have played with this myself and found the best setup was to get a late GU arm that the end pin screws out of and machines up an eye end that screwed back into its place. Fabbed up a mount at the chassis end and the diff end bolts straight up. Caster was fixed by dropping the chassis end as per drop boxes.
I think I just gave away another one of my tricks

We found making the arms longer, to behind the gearbox mount greatly improved the articulation, over a standard length arm.