Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok bare with me...I have a TF (99) Rodeo with manual hubs, I also have a 96 Isuzu MU with auto hubs. I was talking to a mate of mine who also has a TF Rodeo (Sport I think) about me doing a manual hub swap.
He said why.
I said because to free up the front drivline from wear and tear and to increase fuel eco' etc.
He said that it would not make any difference because the wheels are freewheeling anyway because usually I'm not in 4WD.
I said he's wrong because the hubs are locked in up to the transfer case and when you engage 4wd in the TC thats when the power goes through the drive into the wheels.
He abused me for being a redneck (I couldn't dispute this!) and that manual hubs in "Free" free up the front drivline like auto hubs when 4wd is not engaged. That is that neither front drives are rotating so a hub swap would be a waste of time and $$. His Rodeo goes into 4wd like my MU, ie without having to get out and turn the hubs.
Who's right? I'm sorry it sounds like a rant but it's the best I can do in a one way conversation.
Cheers,
Andrew

He's right. The only difference with manual hubs is that you have to turn them yourself. Auto hubs lock in only when in 4WD.

-Stu

dogbreath_48 wrote:He's right. The only difference with manual hubs is that you have to turn them yourself. Auto hubs lock in only when in 4WD.

-Stu

What he said... Now take your rednecked arse back to your mates house and appologise

Ruffy wrote:

dogbreath_48 wrote:He's right. The only difference with manual hubs is that you have to turn them yourself. Auto hubs lock in only when in 4WD.

-Stu

What he said... Now take your rednecked arse back to your mates house and appologise

Dammit I hate being wrong to this guy!!!

But to clear something up. With auto hubs and in 2wd are the wheels freewheeling? If so why do people change to manual hubs "to save wear and tear" on the drivline if they are freewheeling anyway?

Vineboy wrote:Dammit I hate being wrong to this guy!!!

But to clear something up. With auto hubs and in 2wd are the wheels freewheeling? If so why do people change to manual hubs "to save wear and tear" on the drivline if they are freewheeling anyway?

they don't man. They probably do it because the auto ones fail.

You're wrong on this one

they may change to free wheelers in 100 series gxl cruisers that are full time 4wd to save the 'wear and tear'. i don't think it makes any difference though.

ausoops wrote:they may change to free wheelers in 100 series gxl cruisers that are full time 4wd to save the 'wear and tear'. i don't think it makes any difference though.

(noting, for Vineboy, that 100 series GXL's don't come with ANY sort of locking hup, not even auto's)

Thanks guys,
I'll think I'll be choking down some humble pie

but some MAY change their 100 series to manual front hubs to run in 2wd instead of full time 4wd (which is really AWD until the centre diff is locked)

So then what is the real difference between AWD (my wifes Outback) and constant 4WD?

nothing really, the only thing is that a full time 4wd can lock the centre viscous hub to allow a true 50/50 split of torque front to rear like a normal transfer case, whereas a awd won't have a centre hub lock, but will rely instead of abs traction control.

another thing with soft awd's such as the rav4/xtrail is that the majority of the time on road the torque is sent only to the front wheels and is only split to the rear when the ecu detects wheelspin will it 'lock' (i use this term loosely) the magnetic clutch to send torque to the rear wheels. it is this magnetic clutch pack that can burn out on soft awd vehicles when driving on sand as they are not rated for full time use. the ecu will enter limp mode and will disable the clutch pack allowing it too cool, however stranding the vehicle and occupants for 15-25 min.

an outback however has a mechanical central diff, similar to a viscouse central hub only mechanical instead of fluid driven.

The only time auto hubs are an advantage is if you need to select H4 on the fly momentarily. Otherwise, you must still get out and lock them anyway. If they engage in a forwards direction, they will disengage in reverse and then re-engage.

therefore if your forward-reversing in a bog or sand you'll have no 4wd.

This is all assuming you do have auto hubs and not ADD like Toyotas and Pajero's
J Top

Ok so this is what I have learnt:
-Manual hubs make no difference to driveline wear and tear
-Auto hubs are no good "rocking" out of a bog.
-Auto hubs mean you can keep you thongs mud free.
-AWD uses fancy techno mumbo jumbo to go rather than good ol' gears or chains.
-Humble pie is not so bad after all

manual hubs saves wear and tear ....and fuel....if you have a ADD vechile ie they don't have auto hubs.

also i have found some auto hubs have electonic componats in the hubs which when damged means the hubs don't work.

if you want to keep your thongs mud free than remeber to lock manual hubs BEFORE you need them. don't do what someone i know did, put the handbreak on, got out to put the hubs in and the vechile slid back down the hill ........opps.