Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok me hi mount has arrived today. i want to mod it and rebuild it before it goes in.

ok its a 8274 24 volt. what i want to do is pretty basic, want to comp work latter on with it too. can any one help me out with pics of the best way to do this. water proofing the motor, gear box and wiring.
i will also be stiffing up the barrel.

should get some extra lugs weld to the gear box to hold the top part to the bottom.
on last thing the plastic bearing in the end off the barrel should i mod that some how.

please help me!!

There are heaps of mods you can do. The basic mods are to put rods accross the back of the drum just like a low mount to strengthen. Get your brake shaft modified so you can bolt the brake drum onto it so you don't have to rely on the circlip. Change the plastic bush for a bronze bush on the drum. Put a thin line of sicaflex around the join in the gearbox and also the motor. Put a circlip or "R" pin through the free spool shaft to lock it in place. They are the basic things, you can also extend the drum and make it skinnier. You can put air actuated free spool and pressurise the gearbox and motor with air. There are heaps you can do, its just your imagination that will limit you. Best filosophy though is to keep it simple. You don't need to strengthen the join in the gearbox. Just my 2c

what is this brake drum you talk about? and y do put a circlip on the free spool sharft.?
pick would be realy good. im confused.

thanks

lux kid wrote:what is this brake drum you talk about? and y do put a circlip on the free spool sharft.?
pick would be realy good. im confused.

thanks

I don't have a pic handy but the brake drum is the wheel looking thing on the outside of the gearbox. It's held on the shaft by a circlip. As for the free spool handle I meant to drill a small hole straight through the shaft and put a pin through it so it doesn't pop out under a heavy load and send you flying back down the hill

cool i get ya know.
will pull be pulling a part tomorrow.

lux kid wrote:cool i get ya know.
will pull be pulling a part tomorrow.

When you remove the circlip off the brake drum, make sure you have a pair of vice grips or a small "G" clamp holding the actual drum together or it will spring apart and you'll lose your balls The bearings in the drum

how have people wired up the 24 volt winchs.
have you use the standard set up or custom.

is it worth getting 24 volt alternator and battery, two 12v batterys and a 24v alter or run three batterys off one big 12v alter . one for starter and 2 for acc and winching.

Not trying to steal the thread here but what has been done to the Smiths winch, was looking at it at the Ateco and its got 2 motors and looks pretty dam modoified to me.

If you organise you're solenoids/relays properly, you can use a simple 2 battery 12v system to provide 24v to the winch, or 12v selectively, while still charging and running at 12v.

Simple electronics.
In the end, a 12v 6hp motor running on 24v is more than adequate for fast winching.

pumping air though the winch motor! where is the best place to drill and tap the air fittings?
i have noticed the newer motors also have a heat sink type thing on the end of the motor.
is it worth getting one, when ill have air pumped it it?

my hi mount is pretty old, th serial number starts with a 2 witch isn't even listed on the warn site.

When you pull your motor off you'll see that there is a gap between the magnets inside the motor housing about an inch from the gearbox end. Then tap into the endcap for the outlet. You won't need a heatsink. They come with the 6HP motors. You can get them after market if you wan't one.

Search is your best friend...

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=62014

Here are some pics i found at http://members.shaw.ca/red90/8274_brake/8274_brake.html

This just shows the balls that fly every where if you are not careful


This is the mod that eliminates the circlip

If anyone is after the dual motor setup let me know, if I get enough interest I am looking at selling it as a kit.
Let me know if you want any information.

pm me with prices as a kit

Great info here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showt ... entry42094

very cheap one in great cond on ebay at moment used...

Also rebuild info here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

ok. im back, now that i have me winch in pieces its time to start moding.
already done the brake sharft. im about to tig more cross bracing to the gear box and other mounting plate.

im haven trouble understanding what i shout be doing with the free wheel sharft. where should i be drilling and pining the shaft.
will i stillbe able to use the free wheel it i do this mode?

thanks.

lux kid wrote: will i stillbe able to use the free wheel it i do this mode?

thanks.

I think the pin is to stop it unlocking when you don't want it to.
It should be made removeable.

Davidh wrote:If you organise you're solenoids/relays properly, you can use a simple 2 battery 12v system to provide 24v to the winch, or 12v selectively, while still charging and running at 12v.

Simple electronics.
In the end, a 12v 6hp motor running on 24v is more than adequate for fast winching.

love to see the schematic of these simple electronics.

GUJohnno wrote:Great info here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showt ... entry42094

that is soo cool. So what goes into dual motor setups like that one, not like other ones like motor joined to another motor if ya know what i mean What goes into lengthening and narrowing the drum?

This ones good

These pictures are of the dual motor GP winch modification. I am the Australain distributor for them so pm me for details if you are interested in one.

Shadow wrote:

Davidh wrote:If you organise you're solenoids/relays properly, you can use a simple 2 battery 12v system to provide 24v to the winch, or 12v selectively, while still charging and running at 12v.

Simple electronics.
In the end, a 12v 6hp motor running on 24v is more than adequate for fast winching.

love to see the schematic of these simple electronics.

Check out this site for a circuit diagram and explanation on providing 24v while charging at 12v.

http://www.4qd.co.uk/faq/bmnc1.html