Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys,

Just a lucky one.. pulled up at the shops, got out, was looking at something, then thought hmm, turbo timer's running a long time - must have bumped the switch to 5 mins.

Went out to the car - nope, turbo timer light is off.
Lucky I caught it then, otherwise it might have runa few hours !!!

Anyway, turbo timer seems to be working, when it times out, (or I push the button, I can hear a click in the engine bay - so a solenoid somewhere is working !!)


Any ideas ladies / gents ?

your vehicle is stopped by a flap in the inlet manifold. There is a problem with either the vacuum source, the solenoid that controls it or the flap itself.

Hope this helps

had the same type of problem on my first car it was a nissan:oops:.
The engine was an sd25 little 4cyl naturaly aspirated diesel the problem was the fuel cut solenoid the cable providing power to was'nt doing its job so I had to run another that was powered in the run positin.
Hope that helps

Hmm,

Could be interesting.

I stopped the car by turning the butterfly just above the inlet manifold.
That works.

Heard the click when pushing the off button... looks like solenoid (should) be OK.

Hmm.


How do I test the vacuum ?

Cheers

Dave

I used to stop mine by stalling it

Kinda hard in an auto !

You got a point

I know its the edic motor causew im having the same problem with mine but i don't know how to check the vacuum i think it might be one of the hoses on the back of the intake tube going from the turbo to the inlet on the engine becvause i intercooled mine and broke a plastic thing that bolts toit that has 2 vacuum hoses goin into it and now it wont stop but mine is manual so i just stall it. Good luck and when you find out how to fix it can you let me know please. Cheers

There are 3 ways to shut down a diesel engine.

Stop the air (12HT inlet flap)

Stop the fuel

Stall the engine.

12HTs shut down by using an air inlet flap.

When that stops working...

There are 2 ways to bypass this...

My suggestion is to instal a fuel cut solenoid just before the injection pump. The lift pump generates about 15-20PSI so you need a good quality solenoid valve. I have got a CAT one installed in my 60 as a back up in case the EDIC motors dies. These require +12v to turn on (open). When you turn off the IGN you turn off the power. The valve closes and the fuel stops. You can do the same thing with a fuel solenoid from a LPG conversion.

You can also instal a cable to pull on the stop bar that is on the governor (That Shuts Off The Fuel)

Whistling60

whistling60 wrote:My suggestion is to instal a fuel cut solenoid just before the injection pump. The lift pump generaytes about 15-20PSI so you need a good quality solenoid valve. I have got a CAT one installed in my 60 as a back up in case the EDIC motors dies. These require +12v to turn on (open). when you turn off the IGN you turn off the power the valve closes and the fuel stops. You can do the same thing with a fuel solenoid from a LPG conversion.

Whistling60

Why not just fix the edic motor??

You can over-ride the edic motor by disconnecting the shaft from the edic motor and pulling the shaft toward the firewall for shutoff. centre is run, and forward is over-fuel(for starting)

I have never had a problem with my edic motor, it seems to do a very good job to me, and if it does fail im sure whilst it will probably be expensive to replace, it has lasted nearly 20 years, so has done its job IMO.

Automatic goverors are different and do not have a rod attached to an EDIC motor. They Shut down by air starvation. This is also the method which is used by the 12HT. The shut down flap on a 12HT operates via a vacuum switching valve.

Are you sure the 12HT shuts down only via starving the air? I thought the air flap was there to ensure the shut down is smooth, i.e. no compression to make the engine buck as it stops - ala Hilux when the gearlever belts you on the leg

I'm sure that the fuel is also cut at the same time, either via EDIC or solenoid on injection pump.

According to the factory manual...

Automatics and 12HTs are only shutdown by the air inlet flap. Neither 12HT or 2H auto have EDIC systems.

The only solenoids on injector pumps are HAC - High Altitude Compensation.
We do not get this solenoid in OZ spec vehicles.

I will be installing an automatic governor on my manual 2H to lower turbo lag and make the engine more perky by not having to wait for the vacuum activation to catch up with the turbo. Auto governors (& 12HT) are cable operated mechanical. ie Pedal On floor = full fuel. Not Vacuum operated like the manual 2H. With no vacuum required i will be removing the throttle body.

I will be shutting this engine down using a fuel cut solenoid and maybe using an air inlet flap operated by manual cable as a back up.

I have researched this topic at length.

DZLTEC's post is perfectly correct!!





whistling60

http://www.donkyatt.com

my 12HT would somtimes do it after the motor had been wet only done it too me a few times, once it dries its sweet.

We had a problem once in a diesel 40 and the battery lead had come off. could be a possibility with a faulty connection maybe?
-Calvin

Hmmm,

Starting to narrow it down a bit...
Shuts off fine when cold - only have a problem after a med (30 km) run.

Seems to be temp dependant. -> Unlikely to be vacuum.

I presume there is a switch that opens the vacuum line to the intake shutter diaphram (sp?). Anyone got any ideas where this might be ?

Cheers

Dave

It may be possible that the flap is jambing after it gets hot, (metal expanding), then when it cools down the metal contracts and all is well again.
This could be happening because the shaft is worn and the flap is not running true in the inlet chamber so when it gets hot and the metal expands it is hitting on the side, or something to that effect.
Cheers.
Dave.

The switch you ar elooking for is the ignitionbut can be measured on the vacuum solenoid near butterfly easy to diagnose....when the ignition key is in off position and does not stop get out and manually push the lever attached to the solenoid ( I do it when working on the car it beats walking around and switching it off) it's operation should be smooth not jammed then you could try disconnecting the solenoid lever (you will have to hold the butterfly open with wire) and with the engine running switch the key on and off and check solenoid measure voltage etc again and you can even check diapram operation by sucking on the pipe etc etc