Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone using these:
http://store.summitracing.com/largeimag ... -001033000

Do they lock up like the Superior Engineering ones do for onroad use?
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/a ... img=44&i=1

Does anyone else make these type of shackles

Climax make a drop shackle as well but superior are as the name says superior .there greasable lockable and each part is easy to buy and replace,

The climax ones don't look like they allow for sideways twist/pivot?
http://www.4wdworld.com.au/newproducts/ ... closed.jpg

http://www.4wdworld.com.au/newproducts/ ... x_open.jpg

I know the superior ones the great but i don't want to spend $1000 just on shackles.

LuxyBoy wrote:The climax ones don't look like they allow for sideways twist/pivot?
http://www.4wdworld.com.au/newproducts/ ... closed.jpg

http://www.4wdworld.com.au/newproducts/ ... x_open.jpg

I know the superior ones the great but i don't want to spend $1000 just on shackles.

Superior will only recomend to use the drop shackles at either
front or rear (your choice) not both....hence, cost $500

stand to be corrected

[/quote]Superior will only recomend to use the drop shackles at either
front or rear (your choice) not both....hence, cost $500
stand to be corrected[/quote]

Mike told me both could be done

Yeah, fair enough
It depends who you talk to & how they
feel about it on the day.
My concern is side slopes with F & R.
If the end user is happy, it's all good

Put them in the back first and when you see the difference i bet you wont bother with the front

LuxyBoy wrote:The climax ones don't look like they allow for sideways twist/pivot?

No they don't. Go for the Superiors

Generally we don't really recommend the drop shackles at all unless you can afford to do some other work to the suspension at the same time.
You will get more travel out of the drop shackles than normal shackles if you just bolt em on to a standard pack but they usually won't work as well as they possibly can. Plus they take ages to make and dont return much in the way of coin! lol

The rear is normally the best bet for the drop shackles as when you get a lot of flex in the front of a Hilux or Cruiser it fucks with a drive line and uni angles a bit much. In saying all this lots of people love em and prolly equally lots hate em. Usually those that have not used em or have not set the car up properly are the ones that bad mouth em.

Side slopes are no more of a prob with these than any other long travel suspension. imo

I know ours are expensive compared to others but we have no intentions of changing this as ours are heaps bigger/stronger than the other (toys) and will work better. You pay for what you get.

Good luck with it
Brian

fatassgq wrote:Generally we don't really recommend the drop shackles at all
Plus they take ages to make and dont return much in the way of coin! lol

Yeah Mike wasn't keen on making them for me

fatassgq wrote:I know ours are expensive compared to others but we have no intentions of changing this as ours are heaps bigger/stronger than the other (toys) and will work better. You pay for what you get.

I have no doubt in the construction of the superior ones i just wanted to know what else was out there

Just wouldn't mind stopping the sideways sliding of my leaf pack. They want to run free from each other; the big hammer likes to herd them back together though

Just wouldn't mind stopping the sideways sliding of my leaf pack. They want to run free from each other; the big hammer likes to herd them back together though Laughing

I know it doesn't look great but this is pretty normal in a leaf pack that flexes well and gets used a lot.

Obviously you are not running the clamps?

fatassgq wrote:

Just wouldn't mind stopping the sideways sliding of my leaf pack. They want to run free from each other; the big hammer likes to herd them back together though Laughing

I know it doesn't look great but this is pretty normal in a leaf pack that flexes well and gets used a lot.

Obviously you are not running the clamps?

Still running clamps, standard 2" lifted springs

cant be too bad can it have u tried leaning on the u-bolts with a decent socket/extension bar lately

fatassgq wrote:cant be too bad can it have u tried leaning on the u-bolts with a decent socket/extension bar lately

My mechanic mate did them with a rattle gun and then a 4 foot breaker bar. They are on there as good as can be without stuffing the thread.

And now the U bolts are stretched. Torque NEW ones to the correct torque, prob 90ft/lbs.

Bazzle

Yeah U-bolts definitely stretch.

All our new kits have to go out with new ones for warranty purposes.

Get new u-bolts (prolly about 10 bucks each) and see how ya go then.

say for a 75 series could u run superior at the back and climax at the front for much gain and would u still have to put a axel wrap brace at the rear so good flex can be acheived without breaking uni joints?

75's are not worth fitting drop shackles to the rear with out other work as well. The leaf pack is not long enough in the front for the shackle to work to the best of its ability. I spent plenty of time playing with left packs trying to get them to work on my 75. In the end I had a custom leaf pack made 200mm longer from the center bolt to the front spring eye, relocated the front mounts, now it works sweet as. And the wrap bar is to stop you wrecking springs every time you tramp the throttle, not to save uni's

oh ok would it be necisery with the above spring mods and wich spring manufacturer would u recomend

spring supplier was dobbo's for me as they were close and could reset them as well. but if your in the brisbane area then get superior to do them too. for the price a wrap bar would be on my list at only $370 fitted.
cheers
busty

Here's mine in action. Note still have about 300mm drop left

[/img]