Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just wondering if any of you who have gone through the engineering process with your utes could tell me what the engineers look at just so i have a heads up as im am still doing my conversion. anything i can do to make it easier will help. cuirrently i have used box section to build a cage and 2.5 mm steel plating to build my rear cab wall. i intend to add an inside roll bar of about 3inch diameter with cross bracing. is this over kill or will it make it easier for me?

where are you exactly? in melb I'm going through "torque talk" and the only 2 things he picked on me (we'd already chopped...) were how i attached the alloy roof to the steel frame, for corrosion and longevity issues.

and 2 extra gussets on the support frame of the back panel

gusset 1

Gusset 2

ignore the welds, we were using the wrong sorta welder in a rush

Simon

how did you attach your roof in the end? i have built an entire frame in the rear of the cab.have you just used sheet metal?

I just have mine self tappered as per original and the roof has been cut down and i used one of the steel ribs and a piece of offcut roof and rivetted it together.

shakes wrote:how i attached the alloy roof to the steel frame, for corrosion and longevity issues

dose that really matter for engineering?..... i am going to do ute conversion but i am using fibreglass roof.....

how much has it cost use

loanrangie wrote:I just have mine self tappered as per original and the roof has been cut down and i used one of the steel ribs and a piece of offcut roof and rivetted it together.

I done mine exactly the same.

mickrangie wrote:shakes wrote:
how i attached the alloy roof to the steel frame, for corrosion and longevity issues


dose that really matter for engineering?..... i am going to do ute conversion but i am using fibreglass roof.....

how much has it cost use

i asked the same thing, this is almost exactly how my engineer explained it...
uncoated alloy+steel = rust
rust + engineered ute chop in rollover with fatalitys/injurys can be shown as me not doing my job properly, and then he went on to complain about having to think like a lawyer.

the chop itself cost one of my mates alot of his time (was his car before mine) and realistically it cost him 2x slabs for the steel he used, and 2k for a good mig which he's since sold for $1800

stick some pics of your utes up!!!

Simon

shakes wrote:

loanrangie wrote:I just have mine self tappered as per original and the roof has been cut down and i used one of the steel ribs and a piece of offcut roof and rivetted it together.

I done mine exactly the same.

mickrangie wrote:shakes wrote:
how i attached the alloy roof to the steel frame, for corrosion and longevity issues


dose that really matter for engineering?..... i am going to do ute conversion but i am using fibreglass roof.....

how much has it cost use

i asked the same thing, this is almost exactly how my engineer explained it...
uncoated alloy+steel = rust
rust + engineered ute chop in rollover with fatalitys/injurys can be shown as me not doing my job properly, and then he went on to complain about having to think like a lawyer.

the chop itself cost one of my mates alot of his time (was his car before mine) and realistically it cost him 2x slabs for the steel he used, and 2k for a good mig which he's since sold for $1800

stick some pics of your utes up!!!

Simon

Simon, when Mick asked how much it cost, I think he meant the engineering.

I used a alloy rear panel which is welded to the roof the pannel is held onto the steel frame with a urethane used by pannel beaters as a body adheasive and pop rievetts so far no signs of rust . will be engineered very sone so will see .

$132ph off the top of my head.

took 1½hrs for initial inspection.

being that I'm using LRA's body lift (among other things) all the rest of the stuff (brake testing etc) is essentially pre-approved so alot of time and money is saved there!

Simon

shakes wrote:$132ph off the top of my head.

took 1½hrs for initial inspection.

being that I'm using LRA's body lift (among other things) all the rest of the stuff (brake testing etc) is essentially pre-approved so alot of time and money is saved there!

Simon

Fanks that what the info i was after... I am going to use LRA ute kit and i have all the lra body lift and sus kit installed so i dont think i should have any problems.... + i am going to have to get it engineered with 33" road tyres unless i find som 35"

If you can find some old (roadworthy) 35" road tyres, I will go halves with you to get the engineering done.

mickrangie wrote:[I am going to use LRA ute kit and i have all the lra body lift and sus kit installed so i dont think i should have any problems....

The body lift kit that Andrew now sells and has got engineering approval for is a fair bit different to the old kit that you and I have on ours. May not be so easy to get engineered.

Are you saying he 's got a bodgy lift

heres where im up to. got heaps to go. got a new sill to put in on the drivers side....also my idea for attaching the roof is by using a piece of steel cut/bent/welded to match the shape of the roof and then riveting it in place inside the cab and using fibre glass to fill the join on the rear outside .....if you know what i mean...

how come my pic wont show up? can anyone help with that?

yella_rangie wrote:heres where im up to. got heaps to go. got a new sill to put in on the drivers side....also my idea for attaching the roof is by using a piece of steel cut/bent/welded to match the shape of the roof and then riveting it in place inside the cab and using fibre glass to fill the join on the rear outside .....if you know what i mean...

gee looks like that might rust out before it done...

nah. just some surface rust. i live right near the sea and its been pretty narly weather. im goin to get it blasted before i paint it

yella_rangie wrote:nah. just some surface rust. i live right near the sea and its been pretty narly weather. im goin to get it blasted before i paint it

i'd be hitting it with some fish oil!!