Outer Limits 4x4 Board

does anyone know the benifits of using duel t-cases (pros &cons) or should i just go the series 3 rockhopper in a sierra?

didnt know u cood get duals 4 spooks ????

but i have duals in my lux and 2day was the first time i have driven it offroad and it is unreal. so much selectability, if low low is 2 low just pull a lever and go back 2 standard low

hypolux wrote:didnt know u cood get duals 4 spooks ????

but i have duals in my lux and 2day was the first time i have driven it offroad and it is unreal. so much selectability, if low low is 2 low just pull a lever and go back 2 standard low

Did you acually find yourself doing this with the 37"s? Will the front case change from low range to high and vice versa easily or is this effected via transmission wind up?

yes i used standard low a bit with the 37's the turbo diesel doesnt have enuf power 2 get enuf wheel speed some times but its just something i gotta play with a bit more and get used 2 it and my front stick changes from low 2 high easily but going back into low and speed dont work

Just trying to work out whether it is worth the extra $$ and stuffing around for duals as opposed to gears alone.

after 2day i wod say yes coz wot happens wen low 3rd or 4th is too low in a rockhopper ?? u have 2 goto high and then it will b too high

Not really 3rd and 4th with rockhoppers are 34.04 and 23.48 respectively and 1st in H4 is 19.18. They just flow on.

Basically in order of lowest to highest with rockhoppers you get
L4 1st = 92.27
L4 2nd = 54.70
L4 3rd = 34.04
L4 4th = 23.48
L4 5th = 19.96

H4 1st = 19.18

So you can see that although 5th gear is too weak to use, 1st gear in high range is basically the same.

I also did a comparison between tyres sizes and their affects. I can't remember ever needing to use higher than 3rd with 31" tyres. Sure I used 4th some times but I could have easily used high range. 3rd L4 with 31" tyres is 6.53. If I were to install rockhoppers, I could achieve either 6.76 in 5th L4 or 6.50 in 1st H4.

And for my money (without having the opportunity to try it), shifting from double low to single requires the same effort as changing from L4 to H4.

Maybe the dual cases is something I'll have to experience to understand but as I see it, the gears alone are a more affordable option with little drawbacks. The only thing that is telling me to go duals is the issue I have with front talishaft uni binding. To solve this I could go hi-pinion.

Assuming the price for the adaptor is similar to the price of the gears, the extra $$ needed for the dual setup are as follows
Extra transfer case $300
2 x Driveshafts $300
Passenger bucket seat if you have a bench $150
Crossmember mods $100

Then you have to cut another hole in the floor pan (which I'm sure transport dept don't like) and possibly notch your horsecollar crossmember.

It just doen't wiegh up to me.

I'm still interseted to hear others opinions.

I would say just go the Series 3. Easier, more reliable, no custom bits. Mick in our club has dual cases in his LJ and the gearing is no lower than my Series 3. Have to worry about custom drive shafts. Buy the Series 3.

beebee wrote:Not really 3rd and 4th with rockhoppers are 34.04 and 23.48 respectively and 1st in H4 is 19.18. They just flow on.

Basically in order of lowest to highest with rockhoppers you get
L4 1st = 92.27
L4 2nd = 54.70
L4 3rd = 34.04
L4 4th = 23.48
L4 5th = 19.96

H4 1st = 19.18

So you can see that although 5th gear is too weak to use, 1st gear in high range is basically the same.

I also did a comparison between tyres sizes and their affects. I can't remember ever needing to use higher than 3rd with 31" tyres. Sure I used 4th some times but I could have easily used high range. 3rd L4 with 31" tyres is 6.53. If I were to install rockhoppers, I could achieve either 6.76 in 5th L4 or 6.50 in 1st H4.

And for my money (without having the opportunity to try it), shifting from double low to single requires the same effort as changing from L4 to H4.

Maybe the dual cases is something I'll have to experience to understand but as I see it, the gears alone are a more affordable option with little drawbacks. The only thing that is telling me to go duals is the issue I have with front talishaft uni binding. To solve this I could go hi-pinion.

Assuming the price for the adaptor is similar to the price of the gears, the extra $$ needed for the dual setup are as follows
Extra transfer case $300
2 x Driveshafts $300
Passenger bucket seat if you have a bench $150
Crossmember mods $100

Then you have to cut another hole in the floor pan (which I'm sure transport dept don't like) and possibly notch your horsecollar crossmember.

It just doen't wiegh up to me.

I'm still interseted to hear others opinions.

Like Dave, I'm also weighing up the pro/cons this way. Here are some points that I have to add (for my situation), hopefully this may help other people with a similar decision.

1. I run streetys and play tyres. The streetys are small, so I need no diff gear correction for road use. $$$$ saved. Gears alone may give me perfect gearing for my play tyres. Changing the diff gears furthur alters the gearing, difficult to maintain a constant to measure off.

2. I don't compete, so have no real need for a regular 'high' low range.

3. I have a diesel, so it is a bit more torquey down low (harder to stall), therefore prolly won't need such a low-low first, I think the diesel responds to a bit more load. Also because the diesel is not as responsive and free revving (although some on here will disagree with me - Ruff, I don't want to know how high you've had the tacho ) as a petrol, in some situations super low might be a negative to create wheelspeed.

4. Cost (as Dave pointed out in the extras), although I would be curious to see the install prices for gears into a suppplied box, with R & R being done by myself.

5. Gear selection simplicity.

6. Installation simplicity (as mentioned in point 4), requiring less snowball mods.

The biggest hurdle for duals in a SWB zuk is driveline angles especially as if your doinf duals you will want big rubber so you will need decent lift .. your rear d\shaft is gonna be real short, or the intermediate shafty between your t/cases will be real short and you will end up with bearing issues in your T/cases ..

For the money and time involved I would look at gears and carry a few extra revs with the little tyres onroad .. (or just run bigger rubber all the time even on a suzuki big rubber lasts a loooong time)

love_mud wrote:The biggest hurdle for duals in a SWB zuk is driveline angles especially as if your doinf duals you will want big rubber so you will need decent lift .. your rear d\shaft is gonna be real short, or the intermediate shafty between your t/cases will be real short and you will end up with bearing issues in your T/cases ..

For the money and time involved I would look at gears and carry a few extra revs with the little tyres onroad .. (or just run bigger rubber all the time even on a suzuki big rubber lasts a loooong time)

i think it is for a lwb

btw i reckon go for the series 3

what size tyres are u runnin/goin to be runnin?

ok.it is a lwb and im also going to move the diff back,its going to have hilux diffs so i have to get drive shafts anyway.i will be diong the conversion myself so time or money is not a issue.i have no idea about the gears you can select with having duel t-cases.ill be running at least
33s(for road anyway)does anyone know what you can select?eg low hi,hi hi,low low,can you just use one t-case if need be?if i put in 2 sets of 6.1
i could have almost 500%reduction.......cool.

having two sets of 6:1s would be waay to low. You would never be able to drive it, and you would more than likely break things with the torque build up. If you are going with hilux diffs then go a 6:1 t/case and 4.88 diff gears, this will give a nice range of gears.

mud4b wrote:does anyone know what you can select?eg low hi,hi hi,low low,can you just use one t-case if need be?

You can use all of the options you have suggested there... but you do always have to drive through both the x-fer cases - this means (if using stock sierra 1.3 gears), that you will always run a slight reduction (1.454 x 1.454 = 2.114:1 minimum.

So if you wanted the exact same rev's to roadspeed ratio from your car as stock (assuming no change in diff gearing) you would need to increase your tyre size by 1.454 (i.e. 26" x 1.454) = 37.8 inches

"if i put in 2 sets of 6.1
i could have almost 500%reduction.......cool."

can you afford it? nearly $3000 in 2 t/cases then + drive shafts + hilux's..
go 4.55 diff ratios so you can get a hi-pinion for the front at a reasonable price. If you are really intent on duals, spend the money get an OTT 1.6 to hilux then get lux duals [/quote]

good point grimbo...after reading this i think its the way ill go.
thanks for that greg...i had no idea.

1mad engineeer....where you been stranger?i could afford to do it.i already have the lux diffs in a 4.88 ratio.

thanks all.ill end up going the single t-case with 6.1s,duel arb,s.