Outer Limits 4x4 Board

There is a new plant north of brisbane at Narangba.
http://www.abgbiodiesel.com
Telephone 1800 090 512

I tried to call them and get some info on where it is for sale and how much does it cost but got an answering service.

I am interested to hear if anyone is using it from this particular commercial site not just making it themselves

Have they had good, bad or indifferent experience using it

What are they paying for it and which blends are they using

Fuel economy and power differences

What age car are they running it in as the site states not to use it in a pre 1990's car because of the rubber seals and hoses

Just fact finding and hoping it saves us money

Before I parted out the old comp GQ I was runnnign bio siesel that is sold at one of the local servos here at ingleburn, I didnt notice any detrimantal efecs on paower, econamy or otherwise. the stuff smeel different and is bright flouro yellow, I think the stuff sold was the manildra product, it wasnt much cheaper, but consistantly 5c off

Use it in my Gu Patrol Ute whenever I pass the volume Plus servos down here in NSW.Just kept an eye on fuel filters for the first tanks as it apparently cleans out your fuel lines.

Waterways constuction in Sydney use it on all their diesels.From ute's to cranes.

I also bought the latest Kenworth downunder mag.There is an article on alternative fuels which dicusses Bio.There is also a Transport company using it on their fleet in there.This was including late model K104 cabovers pullin B Double with the latest engines..They use a B50 blend.
Caterpillar offers full warranty with the use of Bio.

Here is a site to check out.Can find some useful info here

http://www.biofuelsforum.com/index.php

Tiny wrote:Before I parted out the old comp GQ I was runnnign bio siesel that is sold at one of the local servos here at ingleburn, I didnt notice any detrimantal efecs on paower, econamy or otherwise. the stuff smeel different and is bright flouro yellow, I think the stuff sold was the manildra product, it wasnt much cheaper, but consistantly 5c off

Buckshot wrote:Use it in my Gu Patrol Ute whenever I pass the volume Plus servos down here in NSW.

Use the same with the 6.5 with no noticable difference execpt...

1. you don't stink as much when you get it over your hands,

2. don't get headaches after being covered in it and

3. at times you wonder where a sort of "fish&chips" smell is coming from (does not smell like full strength diesel)

Nev62 wrote:3. at times you wonder where a sort of "fish&chips" smell is coming from (does not smell like full strength diesel)

"I'm always bloody hungry when I drive this car!"

One article I read on biodiesel said to change oil filters the first two tanks you run because apparently it will clean the engine something chronic.
Second it said you'll send the drivers behind you off in search off fish and chips cause of the smell that comes from the exhaust.

Not happy to hear about the pre 1990, cause mines an 11th month 89 and would love to go to bio if I could.

whats wrong with pre 1990?

chimpboy wrote:

Nev62 wrote:3. at times you wonder where a sort of "fish&chips" smell is coming from (does not smell like full strength diesel)

"I'm always bloody hungry when I drive this car!"

sounds like my patrol

Been making my own for around 8months now.......
Blending 50/50 diesel with fish n chip oil.

To date the only thing I've noticed other than a slight freshly cooked fish n chip smell is the fact that she's a tiny bit more reluctant to start on cold mornings ( 3 - 5 degrees ).
I fitted a set of new glowies to her but that made SFA differance..... I ran a full load of straight diesel through her last week ( boss shouted me the tank load ) and she is back to starting the way she used to.

Once its hot the engine starts straight away when the bio is online.... so it must be a characteristic of the blend not to start straight up.

I pay the local shop $2.00 for a 25lit drum of used oil, on average I 'recover' around 23 - 24 lits of oil..... the 'waste' oil and contaminants go directly into the wood heater.
I've made a mould that is around the size of a coke can and the waste oil goes into these, makes a small 'log' that is awsome when getting the heater fired up ...... this 'log' lasts for around 20 mins & produces a good heat.
A couple of weeks back one of the neighbors commented on how many times a week we have fish n chips for tea


Kingy

Do al volume plus petrol stations have bio-diesel or only specific ones.

How do you filter the oil from the the fish and chip shop.

dependinf on the manafacturer, up to certain years they still fitted all the fuel system with nitril seals which was fine for the high sulpher diesel, but now with low sulpher diesel, and bio diesel, the lack of lubricity previously provided by the sulpher now don form around 5000ppm to about 50ppm you need viton as nitril will dry out and crack causing leaks in the fuel system / pump etc. all new seal kits are in viton. BTW as diesel is now all low sulpher it makes no difference if it is normal disel or bio diesel, so dont stress about running it, just save up for a seal kit

My old man uses it nearly all the time in his 87 Humvee (6.2L Chev) and loves it it doesnt blow smoke it does take a little to start when cold (apparently it goes a bit gluggy when cold) it smells better goes as well if not better hasnt had any problems with seals etc.

Thomas

Again how do you filter the old oil

V8Patrol wrote:Been making my own for around 8months now.......
Blending 50/50 diesel with fish n chip oil.

To date the only thing I've noticed other than a slight freshly cooked fish n chip smell is the fact that she's a tiny bit more reluctant to start on cold mornings ( 3 - 5 degrees ).
I fitted a set of new glowies to her but that made SFA differance..... I ran a full load of straight diesel through her last week ( boss shouted me the tank load ) and she is back to starting the way she used to.

Once its hot the engine starts straight away when the bio is online.... so it must be a characteristic of the blend not to start straight up.

I pay the local shop $2.00 for a 25lit drum of used oil, on average I 'recover' around 23 - 24 lits of oil..... the 'waste' oil and contaminants go directly into the wood heater.
I've made a mould that is around the size of a coke can and the waste oil goes into these, makes a small 'log' that is awsome when getting the heater fired up ...... this 'log' lasts for around 20 mins & produces a good heat.
A couple of weeks back one of the neighbors commented on how many times a week we have fish n chips for tea


Kingy

Yeah my Mk is the same with a 50/50, goes a bit better once warmed up

DR Frankenstine wrote:Again how do you filter the old oil

i use a pool filter cartridge my misses got from old stock. has about 50 ft of paper in it. I just cut a whole in a bucket, added some silicone and then just pour it in the top and the nice fuel comes out the bottom.

They filter down to 2 micron , which is overkill but is fine by me.

I can get these filters for $40 plus postage or 75ft model( double the length) for $60 plus postage. LOL been sitting around there for years and know one wants em. RRP was over $100 each.

i can get a few pics if you want it.

cheers

hi,

Does anyone know of servo's around the western suburbs of Sydney that sell bio diesel.

I only have the Cav Glass bowl filter not the big orginal toyota one. I carry one spare around with me however they are only small.

How bad does it clean out the fuel tanks? Does this only happen with 100% bio or does it happen with all the different blends.

Cheers.

V8Patrol wrote: I pay the local shop $2.00 for a 25lit drum of used oil, on average I 'recover' around 23 - 24 lits of oil..... the 'waste' oil and contaminants go directly into the wood heater.
Kingy

What I dont understand is that the fish and chip shop must provide recipts to the EPA that they had the oil taken away and they did not flush it down the sewer. How do they get around this?

Is it possible to use this filtered cooking oil on an 81 fj42?

any servos in SE Melb selling it?

There is a list on this page of Volume Plus servos selling it in Sydney.I think it is meant to be B50.It looks very yellow from the pump.I reckon it could be more.


http://www.biofuelsforum.com/australian ... ydney.html

are all fish shops using animal fat do you think or may some use vegatable oil? If so will this work as well?
I understand that you mix oil and normal diesel 50/50 is there anything else you should mix with it?
Would straining it through a Finer filter pod type air filter with the outer sock on be a fine enough filtration. just thinking about the ability to wash the filter out.

Pretty sure they both work.You need to do a titration test to check if the oil is suitable as I believe not all oil is.You can find all the info on the links I put up.

I have a 2.8 td 98 GU Patrol, been running her on Bio 20% now for FOUR months.
Haven't replaced any filters, though I do use C.E.M. deglaze/sludge/coke additive in my fuel.
Cost is between 5-8 cents a litre cheaper, Patrol doesn't smoke as much as it does on Dino diesel, engine seems to be quieter, starts easier and seems to run much smoother on this stuff.
For my money, I'll stick with it, and if they ever sell it with a larger percentage here in W.A. I'll give that a go as well.
Have heard rumours that they're proposing Bio 50 if demand warrants it.

correct me if i'm wrong but i Think some people here are a bit confused as to what biodiesel actually is. Biodiesel is NOT when you just mix old fish & chip oil with normal diesel, biodiesel is where the oil is put through a chemical process whereby you remove the glycerine from the oil, the product does NOT need to be blended with normal diesel however it can be. the oil does NOT need to be filtered before the process as any contaminants such as crumbs or chip bits drop to the bottom with the glycerine by-product. I have not heard anything about biodiesel cleaning out your engine and having to change oil filters any more often, but Biodiesel is a very heavy solvent and WILL clean out your fuel tank and lines from dirt, rust and any other contaminants, so be sure to keep an eye on your fuel filters and change them on a more regular basis.

V8Patrol, the reason your fourby is harder to start when cold is because cold weather has the same affect on biodiesel as petrodiesel, it gels, now petrodiesel has additives to combat this, biodiesel doesn't, are you just mixing the waste oil with petrodiesel or do you process the oil with methanol and lye, if you do process it, try to improve your process as higher quality fuel will help it combat the cold, if you are just mixing the oil with the diesel the only real practical way to fix this is to either install a fuel preheater or set up a system where you can start the fourby on straight petrodiesel from a separate tank, warm up the vehicle, then switch back to the main tank with your mixed or straight biodiesel.

I hope this has ceared up a few points, if anyone still has any questions, don't hesitate to PM me and i will try to answer them.

Cheers
Chris