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lucas electrics strikes again
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 12:37 pm
by hell
have a problem with my lucas dist hei type sep trigger and coil and need help big time to work it out here
2 wires to coils correct
sends spark to cap
no spark out to ( or min spark intermittant ) to plugs
new cap new rotor
tryed ht lead onto rotor and it sparks 2 diff rotors ( not right )
car runns on lpg only efi type
any ideas how i can get it fired up this has taken me over 2 weeks just to get this far to find this fault in it ps dist is replacement from trs south aust old 1 was a trigger mounted under the coil type 3 wire
ps in melb and new member thanks go out to u guys as have learned a lot from u here so far reading classic rangie 87 efi ex flapper type (gone now )
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:27 pm
by fnukle
Ive heard some stories of people having alot of trouble when getting new dissy caps. if they're not totally genuine some cant get there rangie to start.
i was lucky i went to repco for one which worked so i myself havnt had any problems.
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:45 pm
by hell
got 3 caps and tryed the lot
2 rotors tryed them
prob is why does it spark from rotor with no cap when is should not do that ( so it says in the org book when testing ? )
so have spark at coil to dizzy but cant get it to rotor to cap and leads to plugs correct
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:51 am
by hell
well just to let every 1 know have replaced the magnet in distributor cracked wire replaced trigger replaced rotor x3 /cap x4
still shorts to earth on it help please any ideas at all am now lost this has me beat
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:58 am
by mickrangie
hell wrote: well just to let every 1 know have replaced the magnet in distributor cracked wire replaced trigger replaced rotor x3 /cap x4
still shorts to earth on it help please any ideas at all am now lost this has me beat
make sure its insured and burn it..... then u can blame the electricals for starting the fire
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:06 pm
by 77Rangie
Start by taking the coil lead of the distributor cap and put a screw driver in the end, and sit it on the tappet cover so the spark has to jump from the shaft to the cover at least 10mm. Watch this while cranking it over make sure you have good consistant spark.
If you don't put a test light across the coil from the positive to the negative terminal, crank the vehicle over, the test light should pulse, this checks the trigger from the coil to the module it should be a steady pulse.
If you do have consistant spark put the engine on TDC and unsure that the rotor is lining up correctly with the cap post for No.1 cylinder, if the rotor is in between the posts you will get crossfire in the cap.
you should turn off the gas system while doing this
Hope this helps,
Brad
Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:02 pm
by hell
all done brad and the prob is that it is lined up but shorts out at roter
good spark off coil but for some reason is shorting out at rotor to cap rolled car over to tdc #1 lined up rotor at that point
run lead for #1 to earth on car motor min spark when turning it over checked leads ok replaced leads no joy some how its jumping from rotor to inside dizzy checked dizzy and rotor with it on motor no spark
out it on spare shaft and it sparks on all 3 rotor buttons
its as though it bleeding out of the leads to earth and using that as back to lead some how ( scratches head ) well will keep trying and see where this 1 leads me should have put in a holden dizzy i feel ( lol )
teach me to play with lucas elect wont it
Posted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 5:21 pm
by hell
finally fixed the prob with the dizzy hairline crack in the top part of the shaft making the power from the wires jump to that
its party time again thank god also found out when dizzy blew it took out the gas saftey switch aswell ( dont help does it ) lets in gas to start it then cuts out that had a cut in it from when the dizzy went bang and the weights let go
Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 11:32 am
by hell
ok gentlemen and ladies some tech help for u all to ponder
open dizzys up please remove the rulcuser/points plates
below that is a cam for your centrif weights
remove it and carefully look at it on top of it will find a number that tells you what advance it does
ignore that ( found this out hard way ) usally is 14 or 16
some have an 8 on it
if u have 1 of the latter sit back in postion and make it open the weights up to full position
see how far it throws them out any more than half way out that is to be used with no vac advance at all
if throws out weigts to half way use vac advance on dizzy
if not sure quick trick i found out
put in dizzy
start car idles ok
bring up revs to about 2000 and hold there dont move foot it car revs and dies and then revs again remove vac advance and see what it does is 1 of these faulty 8 deg versions rover made some of these in lucas dizzys for race versions only there is a few out there that u will come across or moded up to it by tinkerers
most of these also have x on them aswell if org part
note early 2 pin dizzys adapt to new style plug and hook to late remote plug wirks ok also plate from new type DONT FIT IN RIGHT PLACE IN OLD DIZZYS early 2 pin dizzys are same type of dizzy as points type
new have hole for wires in diff place and settings for it when u install are diff
plug leads positions
1 move round the cap