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Clunk in power steering box
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 6:47 pm
by RRturboD
Solved the source of a steering clunk earlier today. When you change direction, while driving you could hear a metalic clunk sound, I thought it was to do with a ball joint or steering wheel shaft connection. Got under my '88 RR this afternoon and had son operating the steering wheel. The clunk is clearly coming from within the steering box , and I can see up and down movement from the ball joint at the end of the drop arm, but cannot replicate this by grabbing the drop arm and trying to move it.
Is this clunk and the little movement a serious issue? or should I just live with it? Should the steering box be replaced/reconditioned, or can I replace a bearing?
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 7:33 pm
by justinC
Is it leaking? Have you adjusted the sector shaft yet?
If it has done more than 200K, And if you want to keep the vehicle then a new steering box is worth it. DO NOT fit a 'reco' one. You will be better off with new, as the price is not a lot more when you factor in the'worn worm and sector shaft deposit' the reconditioners ask for when exchanging your unit.
Ring John at All 4X4 Spares in Newy, (02) 49571117. At last check it was around $1200 as opposed to $550 to $600 PLUS $500 deposit for a reco one.
JC
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:25 pm
by RRturboD
Is it leaking?
Would only describe as 'moist', not enough to drip
Have you adjusted the sector shaft yet?
I'll have at look at that on Tuesday morning ... any tricks to getting the adjustment right?
PS. the box is painted blue, so probably a reco one. The vehicle had only done 120k km, but all in Sydney.
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 9:30 pm
by Loanrangie
If the sector shaft is not worn beyond use, fit new bush's and seals, i have rebuilt the 3 bolt box in my 81 rangie and 130k later its still good.
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 9:52 pm
by justinC
Loanrangie wrote:If the sector shaft is not worn beyond use, fit new bush's and seals, i have rebuilt the 3 bolt box in my 81 rangie and 130k later its still good.
Turbo/D RR should have a 4 bolt, therefore needle rollers at bottom of shaft. If lower brgs shot, then shaft will need rechroming etc. Input brg also suffers in these and causes leaks. 4 Bolt boxes are stronger, but need to be rebuilt properly, that is why I fit new ones only to customers vehicles. I have had my time in the sun re-fitting warranty reco boxes for nothing in the past. Adds up to a big waste of time for all parties, and time is $$$$
JC
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 10:00 pm
by justinC
Sorry Michael, I forgot to tell you about adjustment...
Steering straight ahead, loosen locknut on top of box, (Difficult to reach with timing case of 300 in the way, )17mm ring spanner. It will be tight. Use a 5mm or 3/16" allen key to tighten adjuter up until it feels contact. This is eliminating sector shaft up/down endfloat. Tighten locknut. If after this it feels tight to turn while driving and won't self centre, then loosen off slightly and order a new steering box. If the adjuster is already in contact, then retighten locknut and order a new steering box.
Don't forget to also check that the steering column unis are tight, if noise and play still evident after all this, order new steering box.
Did I mention to think about buying a new steering box?
JC
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:52 am
by RRturboD
OK Justine, I get the message ... order new steering box!
Thanks for the advice!