Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sorry for my ignorance but I remember hearing something about this somewhere. If not would it work? My new 2000 watt 1/2" drill has some sort of clutch in it that slips if the drill bit grabs saving slippage in the keyless chuck and no doubt a few broken drill bits and human wrists. What if a free wheeling hub had an lsd type clutch pack in it that could be shimmed up tighter if needed for bigger wheels or more powerfull motor etc

Like this ?
http://www.warn.com/truck/axles/hub_fuse.shtml

or like a centrigual clutch in a minibike/scooter?

DR Frankenstine wrote:Sorry for my ignorance

No, No, mine is far greater

I don't understand what this is meant to achieve even after reading that Warn page

Is it to stop slippage like a locker
Or is it just too late for me and i need to go to bed

I think it breaks (strips the teeth) before you snap an axel or cv. I'm guessing its a lot easier and probably cheaper to fix/replace.

I like you clutch idea though

Jimmy

the clutch idea is Like a lsd diff opperation, the hub remains locked (once locked in) and when the preasure gets to much it slips (like a lsd does) if given to much mumbo.

DR Frankenstine wrote:the clutch idea is Like a lsd diff opperation, the hub remains locked (once locked in) and when the preasure gets to much it slips (like a lsd does) if given to much mumbo.

Therefore it works awesomely untill the track your driving starts getting difficult and then your lim.slip hub starts to slip and you go nowhere, even though your $1500 air locker is engaged

No i think your tyres will slip a long time b4 your little lsd clutch thingy will.

What it would stop is the shock loads from breaking anything.

Great idea!!

I must have been tired i understand it now

Be interesting to see how it would work with a locker installed.

A disengagable cable clutch would be better; than when you got slip you could disengage it and get back your traction

I've heard different opinions of the pros and cons of these, but I'd imagine replacing one on the track would be a sh!tload quicker and cleaner than replacing a busted CV?

Would be top idea in conjuction with a welded diff

what about remote controlled hub engage/disengage via elec or air?

Brett S wrote:what about remote controlled hub engage/disengage via elec or air?

what purpose would that serve?


this is a great idea, saves cv's and makes leaving front locker on not as expensive.

so with ya welded diff ya just disengage the front from incab and don't break nothing.
dunno just food for thought

The Warn hub fuse is not much good for Zooks as the hub fuse is stronger than the cv

Being thinking about putting some kind of cush drive on either axles or drive shafts. Simuler to those on a moter cycle rear wheel only stronger. Would save breaking CV's

cj wrote:The Warn hub fuse is not much good for Zooks as the hub fuse is stronger than the cv

can be designed to suit vehicle easy enough

AJFeroza wrote:I've heard different opinions of the pros and cons of these, but I'd imagine replacing one on the track would be a sh!tload quicker and cleaner than replacing a busted CV?

With the slip clutch type hub you wouldn't break anything you would just lose drive, Back up and try another line. It would have to be set pretty tight so as not to be a pain in the ass. It would be more for shock load with diff lock engaged and not set so loose that it would slip cornering on hard surfaces etc.

but once it does its first click would it not then get momentum and then keep clicking/slipping? and never reengage untill alot lower torque

Brett S wrote:but once it does its first click would it not then get momentum and then keep clicking/slipping? and never reengage untill alot lower torque

DUH isn't that what I just said.

wat about Chromo axles and cv;s, no need for clutch hubs...

hypozook wrote:wat about Chromo axles and cv;s, no need for clutch hubs...

sounds great but in the real world when the wheels can't move and the axels are still turing something is going to give, is just happens to most often be the CV.

so in your set up i can see many destroyed diffs which cost a lot more than a cv, or a fuseable hub

the problem is, cv's arent as strong turned as going straight ahead. so to have the hub set to disengage before a cv broke while bound up and at hard lock, would mean the setting would be pretty low, therefore some straight ahead sections, which wouldn't break anything, would see you floundering as the hub lost drive.

set it so it'll only slip before a cv breaks while going straight ahead, you'll still bust cv's when the wheel is turned

YankeeDave wrote:

hypozook wrote:wat about Chromo axles and cv;s, no need for clutch hubs...

sounds great but in the real world when the wheels can't move and the axels are still turing something is going to give, is just happens to most often be the CV.

so in your set up i can see many destroyed diffs which cost a lot more than a cv, or a fuseable hub

drive flanges, softer than a freewheeling hub and dont damage the chromos wen the let go like a hub can

Brett S wrote:but once it does its first click would it not then get momentum and then keep clicking/slipping? and never reengage untill alot lower torque

CXorrect. GKN made these for Rovers. Never really worked the way they were needed. Did save a few axles but trade off is as above.
Never broke away at the same torque either.

Bazzle