Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys im moving the battery to the rear so im just running a cable to the front and joing everything there so what size cable do i need to run

also for the negative all the negative cables in the engine bay can i put them to the chassis then at the rear ground the negative side of the bat to the chassis or does something have to go back to the negative terminal?

Just a suggestion, run from the battery to the starter motor then from there to the alternator and from there to the general fuses. This is a common set-up for rear-mounted batteries because the starter motor is what draws the most current.

What you are proposing with the chassis is fine, in fact the shorter you keep the cable to the chassis the better - just leave yourself enough to work with a range of battery shapes and no more. Obviously use a decent size of cable at the battery, the starter motor, and the alternator/engine block to chassis connections.

just a thought. And i'll be doing battery movement soon too. I think you should move all fusible links to rear aswell, keep 'em as close to battery as possible to prevent fire. Is this true or am i being pedantic(sp?)??

GQ Bear wrote:just a thought. And i'll be doing battery movement soon too. I think you should move all fusible links to rear aswell, keep 'em as close to battery as possible to prevent fire. Is this true or am i being pedantic(sp?)??

yep, id do that too. Definately put a fuse n the +ve cable running under the vehicle bartso. You could also run a couple cables up ther and use one for the sstarter motor and the other for everything else. Might allow you to use a smaller cable, save cost etc.. At a guess maybe 2 x 95mm?? allowing for a starter rated at 250A or so. Can you tong the starter motor now before you move the battery. should give you a better idea.

On one car I had, the battery cable ran from the boot to the engine bay, along the trans tunnel - quite a long car, too. Anyway, where it was more exposed it was run through a steel pipe. I would probably do this.

I don't know about the fuse at the battery, I would have thought that you'd need a pretty big fuse if you don't want it to blow when starting the car. However, if you can find a suitable item, I guess that's a good plan. I have never personally seen a fuse between the battery and starter motor in any car I've had to work on, but that doesn't mean it can't be done!

Just changed mine from the tray of my 45 to under the bonnet once I made a stainless battery holder and moved the overflow bottle. The cables were welding leads and run through the chasis. Not much change in length as the battery is now on the drivers side of the engine bay.

ive moved the battery to the back from the engine bay and have run a
power cable to the front and connnected it to the old wiring that goes to the starter.

Ive got an earth from the battery to the chassis & old earth from the block
to the chassis at the front.

how come i keep blowing the fusible link now?
is it a bad earthing?

maybe how big is your earth how did you attach it to the chassis at both ends did you clean the chassis first?

Bartso wrote:maybe how big is your earth how did you attach it to the chassis at both ends did you clean the chassis first?

i think the earth is a bit smaller than the +.
its attached the eyebolts to metal surface.

i even tried to join the new earth to the old one and it still shorted.

is the battery conected arse about?

mickyd555 wrote:is the battery conected arse about?

unfortunately no

what are we taliking about as soon as you connect the bat it blows or after you try to start it

as soon as.

does connecting the + first or - make a difference?

im thinkin ive hooked up the positive
then hooked up the block to the chassis
and when i go to hook the battery - to the rear chassis it sparks if i drag it
and it blows if i hold it down.

is the starter cable possibly shorted to the block?

I am running 35mm welding cable and havent' had any problems. it is better if you run a -ve cable direct to each winch.

I have run my cables through the cab with glands and in PVC conduit, less chance of damage.

Good idea with rear mounted battery, as cable will pass by driver, fit a isolator switch.

Spartacus wrote:

mickyd555 wrote:is the battery conected arse about?

unfortunately no

so anyway

incase u havent guessed i just "whatever noway im not stupid" to that reply
today i actually went back and checked

heh.