Outer Limits 4x4 Board

OK gonna convert one of my mq's into a front engined truggy and am little concerned bout front diff strength. I would like to keep the MQ diffs as have 4.6:1 ratio std and only cost $100 an end when they break. Looking at rover transfer and so will need an offset rear diff as well, which mq has.
So the other option is to use 60 series diffs but i dont have any, cost alot more, don't have as low ratio std, but are stronger on the front and use same centers across many models.
Now what do youse reckon should i use what i got and start using up WA's supply of mq front diff components or use 60 series stuff with worse ratio's and spend even more when i break stuff in them?
Basically will be removing body, v6 commo to lt230 transfer, tube frame, a frame rear, 3 + panhard front?, full hydro and racerunner style shock/spring, guessing around 1400kg.
Or is there other options for front diff that will be cheap and have matching 4.6:1 ratio's for the rear diff?
waddyasrekon?

just use the mq diffs for now. the rover junk will break first haha. but seriously if your tyres are +37", you will break cvs every trip but they're easy enough to change. mq knucles have steering arms at a good height for hydro steering.

Yeah im only gonna run 35's at the moment cos i got em which are on me other patrol with a ratchit loka in the back without a prob but when i weld the front on the buggy just worried bout not only the cv's but the crownwheel/pinion. But yeah i could just stockpile them out of the quokka.

mq's are cheep and if you have em, go with em, mine arnt holding up too bad, guts dind break any CV's in my buggy at the WErock finals.

if you want to spend a little mor coing and have a little more flexability I would go with, hilux/80/60 series, just because there is so much aftermarket stuff out there

cromo longfields, spools and flanges, treated gears, good ratios, lots of good.

I just dont like the toyota steering set up(king pin style), even with high steer its got issus.

Mq steering beefy

Mock

well im surprised no knockers on the mq front, the feedback i was hoping for but not expecting.i think im sold on using em.
On a side note i've heard ppl been annealing? their cv's for more ductility is this true and anyone know the process or material of mq cv's?
did i just hijack my own thread? not enuf beers.

Brett S wrote:well im surprised no knockers on the mq front, the feedback i was hoping for but not expecting.i think im sold on using em.
On a side note i've heard ppl been annealing? their cv's for more ductility is this true and anyone know the process or material of mq cv's?
did i just hijack my own thread? not enuf beers.

I think haltech heat treats em. And yuri as well. Screwy will know

mq gear is alot stronger than its given credit for. it holds up prety well to 35's and a locker on me mates mq .......... provided u dont give it heaps when airbourne n then land still into it


but u also gotta remember a buggy doesnt even weigh half an mq and certianly dont have a sd33 boat anchor ontop of it

yuri does changover ringing and heat treating of CV's, and he will do MQ's

http://www.yuri4x4.com/cv_joints.php

Mock

putting mq diffs under my pos as well, will be interesting to see how they go, never broke anything in the mk i had.

looks like the price of MQ stuff is going to go up now everyone is using them

Mock

Just throwing an idea out there (as someone that's never seen a MQ diff up close), how hard would it be to retro fit hilux CVs into a MQ diff?

Damo wrote:Just throwing an idea out there (as someone that's never seen a MQ diff up close), how hard would it be to retro fit hilux CVs into a MQ diff?

could be done, hilux bells are slightly smaller, so they fit in the knuckle, the stub axel is longer on a hilux, and the spline count is more, so it is tight fitting through the spindle. I think you could do it with a little machining and a spacer.

OR

my plan is to cut and respline the stub axels on some chromo longfields, and run GQ hubs for a little more beef.
thats the plan

Mock

ljxtreem wrote:could be done, hilux bells are slightly smaller, so they fit in the knuckle, the stub axel is longer on a hilux, and the spline count is more, so it is tight fitting through the spindle. I think you could do it with a little machining and a spacer.

OR

my plan is to cut and respline the stub axels on some chromo longfields, and run GQ hubs for a little more beef.
thats the plan

Mock

Cut & respline the stub axles? Wouldn't it be easier to machine the spindle as you mentioned, and run hilux hubs?

How do the axle shafts compare between MQ & 'lux?

Damo wrote:

ljxtreem wrote:could be done, hilux bells are slightly smaller, so they fit in the knuckle, the stub axel is longer on a hilux, and the spline count is more, so it is tight fitting through the spindle. I think you could do it with a little machining and a spacer.

OR

my plan is to cut and respline the stub axels on some chromo longfields, and run GQ hubs for a little more beef.
thats the plan

Mock

Cut & respline the stub axles? Wouldn't it be easier to machine the spindle as you mentioned, and run hilux hubs?

How do the axle shafts compare between MQ & 'lux?

hilux and mq are the same inner axel spline, the stub axels are about the same size, but the hilux has rolled spline so it sits proud of the stub, which means you would have to machine out the inside of the spindle, im thinking it might get a bit thin.

if you cut and respline, appart from the CV, nothing is custom, so you can run standard CV's if you have too (after breakage ) and you also dont have a mountain of hub hanging out

Last time I got a cut and respline it cost $125, works out not bad, and there is minimum fab.

I wouldnt bother doing it to run standard hilux CV's, as they are not any stronger than MQ.

Mock

So does any1 know how the Yuri treated CVs hold up compared to say the haultech 1s??

I would thik it be much the same, you can make the bell stronger or softer etc, but the cage and internals would bust at about the same point I would think.

Mock

twas what i was thinking if you know the material the bell? (EN26 or en36 rings a bell) is made of it would be a simple task to work find out the appropriate annealing/tempering? cycle and better if you have access to proper ovens.
spose for the cost of em though track testing different hardnesses wouldn't be too hard. excuse the pun.
so ljxtreme you gonna upgrade your cv's even though you haven't broken any?
and you say a cut and respline, does that mean they are thru-hardened or just surface hardened and had to be re hardened?
I was gonna look at the turbo 700 shaft and see if that was able to be turned down and respline to fit a lt230 or do they make custom shafts to suit. if they make custom ones they look excessively long as shown on genisis buggy, surely could get it down to 50-75mm adapter rather than 150-200mm?

What about trying to find a leaf-sprung front H233B?

Nick

Brett S wrote: if they make custom ones they look excessively long as shown on genisis buggy, surely could get it down to 50-75mm adapter rather than 150-200mm?

Thats as short as we can make it, the transfer case hitting on the t700 oil pan is what limits it.

Sam

Strangerover - i thought there must be a reason for being so long but from the pics couldnt realy see. Could you tell me if you modded the existing output shaft or get new ones made up. Also if you could give me a price on the kit (shaft and adapter). Cheers
Woop - by leaf sprung h233b i assume you mean out front of early gq ute? did they come out with 4.6 gearing std i gonna look into this cos seen one in the quokka the other day for stuff all.

ljxtreme you gonna upgrade your cv's even though you haven't broken any?

I have broken them, just not since I sorted out some isses, but thats not to say im not going to break any more, they are going to break.

when I had michillin XML's on the zook, they weighed about 70 - 80kg on the rim, and messured 38', you could bust CV's driving on the flat

On getting the spline's cut, I just payed the dude, and picked em up when they were done, dunno what was done to them, but I never broke an inner axel, or striped the spline.

Mock

Brett S wrote:Strangerover - i thought there must be a reason for being so long but from the pics couldnt realy see. Could you tell me if you modded the existing output shaft or get new ones made up. Also if you could give me a price on the kit (shaft and adapter). Cheers
Woop - by leaf sprung h233b i assume you mean out front of early gq ute? did they come out with 4.6 gearing std i gonna look into this cos seen one in the quokka the other day for stuff all.

going to GQ stuff, isnt realy getting you a heap more strength in the CV department, sure you get a bigger stub, but only just.

you do however get a stonger centre, but you will lose clerance.

If you have to buy a new diff, you might aswell go yota stuff, cuz it is upgradable ezy.

Mock

Brett S wrote:Strangerover - i thought there must be a reason for being so long but from the pics couldnt realy see. Could you tell me if you modded the existing output shaft or get new ones made up. Also if you could give me a price on the kit (shaft and adapter)

T700 has a stock output shaft, we just press and weld a new splined section into the rover input gear to mate up with the t700. Would do the adapter and modify your input gear for $600.

Sam

Sam crokie83 (michael) is keen to get one done so he might call ya when hes back from cairns. For his new buggy Another pro mod entrant

Ok cool i just got meself a vn with recon eng for $500 and hopefully be able to make at least half back by wrecking the rest. Once i source a lt230 for respectable price (wreckers want $1000) i'll prob give ya a buzz. Is there any certain lt230 i need or are they all as good as each other? i been told some have tapered bearings others have needle rollers and also differences in high range options, but over here in wa i prob have to get what i can cos not much going around in that department.

Patience will get ya one at a good price. I got one with a ZF auto on it for $350.00

Brett S wrote:Ok cool i just got meself a vn with recon eng for $500 and hopefully be able to make at least half back by wrecking the rest. Once i source a lt230 for respectable price (wreckers want $1000) i'll prob give ya a buzz. Is there any certain lt230 i need or are they all as good as each other? i been told some have tapered bearings others have needle rollers and also differences in high range options, but over here in wa i prob have to get what i can cos not much going around in that department.

tapered bearings is what you want... model called LT230T (t for taper)

All low range ratios are the same. The high ranges differ from various models.

FYI... lt230's can be had for good prices.. i got mine off ebay for 120 bux..

wreckers want top dollars as they got to make a profit somehow... You could buy a whole discovery with an lt230 with a prang for around the price wreckers want for a complete lt230

TOM

tapered stronger hey, spose better look up the rover bible and see all the nick naks about em. yeah wreckers, would like to support em but often find they asking 2-3 times quokk/trading post value. ebay never thought of that i'll have a look.

ljxtreem wrote:

Damo wrote:Just throwing an idea out there (as someone that's never seen a MQ diff up close), how hard would it be to retro fit hilux CVs into a MQ diff?

could be done, hilux bells are slightly smaller, so they fit in the knuckle, the stub axel is longer on a hilux, and the spline count is more, so it is tight fitting through the spindle. I think you could do it with a little machining and a spacer.

OR

my plan is to cut and respline the stub axels on some chromo longfields, and run GQ hubs for a little more beef.
thats the plan

Mock

Mock,
Just use an 80 series drive flange for the longfields. It is the same bolt pattern as the nissan f/wheeling hub (just need to drill the 80 flange out to 10mm bolts). You'll have to machine up a 20mm spacer for the longer stub shaft (use a nissan f/wheeling hub and part it off in the lathe at 20mm). If the longfield stub shaft doesn't fit through the MQ spindle, use a GQ spindle/bearings/hub. All that shit bolts straight up.

Wendle wrote:

ljxtreem wrote:

Damo wrote:Just throwing an idea out there (as someone that's never seen a MQ diff up close), how hard would it be to retro fit hilux CVs into a MQ diff?

could be done, hilux bells are slightly smaller, so they fit in the knuckle, the stub axel is longer on a hilux, and the spline count is more, so it is tight fitting through the spindle. I think you could do it with a little machining and a spacer.

OR

my plan is to cut and respline the stub axels on some chromo longfields, and run GQ hubs for a little more beef.
thats the plan

Mock

Mock,
Just use an 80 series drive flange for the longfields. It is the same bolt pattern as the nissan f/wheeling hub (just need to drill the 80 flange out to 10mm bolts). You'll have to machine up a 20mm spacer for the longer stub shaft (use a nissan f/wheeling hub and part it off in the lathe at 20mm). If the longfield stub shaft doesn't fit through the MQ spindle, use a GQ spindle/bearings/hub. All that shit bolts straight up.

You da Man

Had kind of thought that, but i have never got all the bits together to play with.
then could just carry spare standard hubs and CV's in case of breakage, or Hilux

Mock