Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i have to make new rear shock mounts for my d110 trayback.

things to consider?

coil bind - bumpstop clearance may need to be changed so coils don't bind at compression

so how much do i allow for the bumpstop to compress... because when i flex it with a folklift, it probably won't compress like it would with a load of gear, going over a washout at 60km/h.

anything else i should think of??

cheers, serg

ok, i lifted the REAR LEFT wheel with a forklift.

FRONT:
Springs:220lb purple/orange lra 460mm free lenght(tube bar + winch)
Shocks:koni 80 series + 2 inch rasied
Wheels/tyres:matt lee mach 5, 16x7, more offset than stock LR, 285/75r16 goodyear mtr's

stock height shock towers and a b/stop clearance of 150mm

with the front right wheel stuffed right up into the gaurd... at as much compression that i had, the b/stop was still at about 70mm, there was about 60mm up travel left in the shock and the spring still had not bound up.... problem was i had about 50% steering lock and the inside of the tyre was rubbing the shock tower....

the other front shock was at full extension, coil had not come loose

REAR:
Springs:kings custom 250lb 480mm free lenght
Shocks:koni truck shocks 12 inch travel.
Wheels/tyres: same as above

as i only have a cut down alloy tray, weighs FA, the rear wouldn't flex much... new tray will weigh about 100-150kg heavier. plus i tow a trailer, this was taken into acount when getting these springs....

with the little amount i had the rear flex, about 30-50mm, the inside of the tyre was getting close to the top spring mount... i would probably have to limit my up travel to only about 60mm more but thats ok.

so how close do your tyres get to the front shock tower and rear spring pearch????

whats the best method to "pack out" b'stops

i figure i need to pack them about 75mm front and rear and make the new rear shock mounts....

any advise to what you see here would be great.... this is starting to get me down abit... i have already bought 2 sets of coils rear and 3 for the front....

most have said in the past they need to raise the front tower for there shocks.... but mine arn't even fully compressed and the tyre is rubbing???

mabe i have put together the wrong package????

i just want to be able to drive it without wrecking stuff... this is my dd for work and play

what am i missing??? besides a brain

cheers, serg

Try putting some washes on the studs between the rim and the hub. I DO NOT recommend you drive it on the road like this, but do it to check the rims are the right offset.

Just a little bit of wxtra width may help clear the front towers. You do need longer front bump stops, at least to be higher than the amount of travel left in the shock so as not to stuff them if you ever get airbourne.

You could also look at a longer front shock, this will decrease the gap left in the amount of shock travel left and also give you more doward flex.

Suspension is one of those things that takes time to be the right compromise for you. What works for someone else may feel awful to you.

If you end up not using those rears I may be interested in them.

I agree with the Maggott Serg, don't drop the bump stops too far, they aren't compressive enough to prevent damage by bottoming out. IE bent axle housing etc.
I would start with looking at an offset change to prevent tyre contact to the towers, or is it the fact that maybe the panhard rod has caused the axle to drag over to the left, due to the LH front wheel at full extension? Maybe try the RH rear wheel on the fork lift trip, and check the contact of the towers on the left side?

I had to re align a front end on a lifted Defender to prevent similar problems by fitting an adjustable panhard rod.

Just some thoughts.

JC