Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi Guys,

Currently I am running Cibie 95, the little rectangle ones which run the 55w globes. I have just got myself some IPF 800s which are either running 100w or 130w globes I havent checked and the guy I bought them off cant remember what he was running.

But anyway I when changing these over would I be able to use the same wiring as is already there or would i have to upgrade to cope with the extra watts.

As you may guess by the question I am pretty new to this elec stuff so a simplified reply would be appreciated.


Cheers

Zam

Can you see the wire that's currently running to the spotties you've got? Is it thin like the stock headligth wiring etc, or is it beefier than that?

Yeah you can see the wiring going to the spotties and it is just the thin wiring which looks pretty stock, but in saying this looks to be the same as what is coming out of the IPF's.

Which is sorta why Iw as asking the question.

Cheers

Id run new wiring for sure, A whole half hour to sort it out and then youll be sweet for life. Ive melted a ipf fuse holder and wiring running only 100 amps into each light, Now i throw away the wire that comes in the kit and run my own heavier type stuff. Never a problem after that.


Cheers

pongo wrote:Id run new wiring for sure, A whole half hour to sort it out and then youll be sweet for life. Ive melted a ipf fuse holder and wiring running only 100 amps into each light, Now i throw away the wire that comes in the kit and run my own heavier type stuff. Never a problem after that.


Cheers

I'm tending to agree, if the wiring for the spotties is about the same as normal headlight wiring then it's not going to do justice to the new lights.

Thanks guys I was thinking perhaps the best thing to do was upgrade the wiring, you have just confirmed this.

Now one more questions, the current spotties piggy back off the high beams, IS this normal OR is there usually a seperate switch in the cabin which you can activate them.

I would prefer a switch which is also connected to the high beams, so if the switch is one the spotties will only work when high beam is on, so if i dip the lights the spotties go off, but i also have the option of running just the normal high beams without the spotties.

Does this make sense????

Zam wrote:Thanks guys I was thinking perhaps the best thing to do was upgrade the wiring, you have just confirmed this.

Now one more questions, the current spotties piggy back off the high beams, IS this normal OR is there usually a seperate switch in the cabin which you can activate them.

I would prefer a switch which is also connected to the high beams, so if the switch is one the spotties will only work when high beam is on, so if i dip the lights the spotties go off, but i also have the option of running just the normal high beams without the spotties.

Does this make sense????

legally the relay should be switched by the high beams to ensure when you dip the lights the spotties go off, having the switch is an option but plenty of blokes do put the switch in, most wiring looms come with the switch.

i thought the switch has to be there to be leagal and run when on high beam only. If the relay is all wired up, Just put a switch on the earth side. SAves re running a power wire.

Cheers

pongo wrote:i thought the switch has to be there to be leagal and run when on high beam only. If the relay is all wired up, Just put a switch on the earth side. SAves re running a power wire.

Cheers

Does this do any long term damage to the relay?

Shouldn't do, it still switches the relay on or off.


Run the thickest wire you can practically run on your driving lights.....= less votage drop = brighter lights. That is the main power wire from your battery to the relay and then to the lights should be a chunky as possible AND FUSED. The switching wires can be pretty well anything, but make sure anything going through the firewall is fused too.

pongo wrote:i thought the switch has to be there to be leagal and run when on high beam only. If the relay is all wired up, Just put a switch on the earth side. SAves re running a power wire.

Cheers

Yes, they should be wired to a switch AND the high beam, so that the switch must be "on" and the high beams must be on before the spotties will come on.

pongo wrote:i thought the switch has to be there to be leagal and run when on high beam only. If the relay is all wired up, Just put a switch on the earth side. SAves re running a power wire.

Cheers

you may be right... I runf earth to the switch when I am wwring, but I do prefer to get customers to buy a complete loom, easier for me plus the plug for the relay etc is good, if the relay goes, just plug a new one in plus they are great for biginners as they are fully labeled

pongo wrote:Id run new wiring for sure, A whole half hour to sort it out and then youll be sweet for life. Ive melted a ipf fuse holder and wiring running only 100 amps into each light, Now i throw away the wire that comes in the kit and run my own heavier type stuff. Never a problem after that.


Cheers

Dude thats about 1200 watts per light!!! have you got a pair of lighthouse globes in them or what?????