Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok so I bought a three way fridge a few months back.

I tested it on 240v...sweet.
Gas...sweeter!
12v :(.... cig plug got real hot and deformed the insert bit on the end of the lead.

So, now I want to know. How do I over come this problem and can I safely hardwire the lead so that when it's plugged in it's on and there is not a need to plug into a ciggie lighter socket?

cheers,

Luke

The problem could be the socket rather than the plug. Some Mitsubishi sockets have a built-in fusible link, and I think they get hot if you draw too much current for too long. You may have something similar.

Try a high-current plug and socket combination; look here for some ideas.

Good luck,

Scott

Use Anderson Plugs.

Cut the 12v lead in half and install anderson plugs so you can still use the cigi ligher connecter if you must.
Run a separate feed from the battery to where the fridge is with decent guage wire and a fuse and use the same size anderson plug to connect to the fridge.

Thanks boys, some good ideas there

Bad JuJu wrote:Use Anderson Plugs.

Cut the 12v lead in half and install anderson plugs so you can still use the cigi ligher connecter if you must.
Run a separate feed from the battery to where the fridge is with decent guage wire and a fuse and use the same size anderson plug to connect to the fridge.

Yep, thats the best, they can handle 50amps.

What size fuse would I use?

cheers,

Luke

Toy80Diesel wrote:

Bad JuJu wrote:Use Anderson Plugs.

Cut the 12v lead in half and install anderson plugs so you can still use the cigi ligher connecter if you must.
Run a separate feed from the battery to where the fridge is with decent guage wire and a fuse and use the same size anderson plug to connect to the fridge.

Yep, thats the best, they can handle 50amps.

50amps

I'm no electrician, let's get that sorted straight away. I hard wired my engel 39L fridge a couple of years ago because i got sick of the ciggi plug falling out of ciggi socket i had wired up to rear of wagon. And when this happens it blows engel thermal fuse which cost upto $10 ea. After blowing about $20-$30 on fuses i started using 5amp glass fuses and had no probs.
Now it is hard wired to deep cycle battery via fuse block with 5 or 10amp fuse. I've had no problems in 2yrs with fridge running 24/7.

Does anyone know what sort of amps these fridges draw?

Check this site out that I was pointed to earlier in this thread...

http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Accessories/Fridges.asp

Some good info there.

Luke

Bowhunter wrote:What size fuse would I use?

cheers,

Luke

My guess would be either 7.5 or 10 Amp - but check the manual for maximum current usage, or check the manufactures web site for specs.
The thicker cable and anderson plugs are minimising voltage drop, your not really pumping 50 amps down it.
Put the fuse close to the battery.

Oh the best thing about anderson plugs, they dont vibrate out/apart like cigi lighter type connections and are far less prone to damage cause they dont stick out.

Trust me you dont want green/gray meat and warm beer..

Bad JuJu wrote:

Bowhunter wrote:What size fuse would I use?

cheers,

Luke

My guess would be either 7.5 or 10 Amp - but check the manual for maximum current usage, or check the manufactures web site for specs.
The thicker cable and anderson plugs are minimising voltage drop, your not really pumping 50 amps down it.
Put the fuse close to the battery.

Oh the best thing about anderson plugs, they dont vibrate out/apart like cigi lighter type connections and are far less prone to damage cause they dont stick out.

Trust me you dont want green/gray meat and warm beer..

wrong and right at the same time check the manual on the amp INPUT into the fridge
the fridge will only take as much as it needs
u chould get a spike yes and blow the shit out of it and guess what warm beer

best tip anderson plug from the battery via 15amp fuse (providing what it draws on a full load) im think between 12-25amp depending onthe fridge size etc
u chould also think about using a replay to keep high amp wiring away from your dashboard thats how idea of relays in the first place im myself i dont use relays for anything they only cuase me pain

throw up the specs on ur fridge and we will be albe to help u find the best way to go about things

MQSWBUTE wrote:

Bad JuJu wrote:

Bowhunter wrote:What size fuse would I use?

cheers,

Luke

My guess would be either 7.5 or 10 Amp - but check the manual for maximum current usage, or check the manufactures web site for specs.
The thicker cable and anderson plugs are minimising voltage drop, your not really pumping 50 amps down it.
Put the fuse close to the battery.

Oh the best thing about anderson plugs, they dont vibrate out/apart like cigi lighter type connections and are far less prone to damage cause they dont stick out.

Trust me you dont want green/gray meat and warm beer..

wrong and right at the same time check the manual on the amp INPUT into the fridge
the fridge will only take as much as it needs
u chould get a spike yes and blow the shit out of it and guess what warm beer

best tip anderson plug from the battery via 15amp fuse (providing what it draws on a full load) im think between 12-25amp depending onthe fridge size etc
u chould also think about using a replay to keep high amp wiring away from your dashboard thats how idea of relays in the first place im myself i dont use relays for anything they only cuase me pain

throw up the specs on ur fridge and we will be albe to help u find the best way to go about things

Why not use relays for everything. I rather carry one spare relay rather than 4 or 5 different types of switches. If you wiring is neat and tidy and in a sealed box or in the cabin you shouldn't have any problems changing a relay quickly.

And by running a relay gives you the ability to only have to run a small wire to your switches and save the heavy wiring for the relay.

I don't use it yet, but I've heard of people using Lanolin Oil to help keep the dirt out of connections.
http://www.lanotec.com.au/

i ran twin 4 mm wiring in one cable (like trailer wire but not 7 wires only 2 ) and at the battery i put a 30 amp fuse and at the back of the car where fridge is ran a marine style socket and also put male end on lead on fridge to match .
Do you plan to run this fridge long on 12 volt as 3 way fridges are very ineficient on 12 volt.

GQ Bear wrote:

Toy80Diesel wrote: Yep, thats the best, they can handle 50amps.

50amps

I'm no electrician, let's get that sorted straight away. I hard wired ...

The ANDERSON PLUG handles 50 amps current going through it. NOT the fridge!

I think you had your wires crossed, pardon the pun!

Fuses are designed to protect the wiring / connectors - so whatever the maximum safe working current of the wire / connector combo you are using is - this is the correct fuse size.

The appliance then should have it's own fuse internally to protect itself of the appropriate size. Some appliances run fuses in the cord or plug itself, so if changing cords / plugs - make sure it's fused also.

Re: Lanotec - is a fantastic insulator, so I would suggest NOT spraying it on switch / relay contacts. Great for corrosion protection - not so great if you want good contact between 2 surfaces.