Outer Limits 4x4 Board

any tips / pics for mq shackle reversal?

biggest issue is what do you do with the drag link as it looks like it will hit the leaves when we rotate the diff to correct pinion angle

also wat have people done to rotate the diff i know most guys who have done this have done SOA but just wanna know as the front drivers mount seems to be cast steel

wat do you do to rotate for correct pinion angle in this case

NOTE: SOA is an unwanted solution (sorry just not keen on it)

Heath

was told to heat the cast steel till it glowed red then weld it but im just not gunna do the whole mk axel soa as im gunna use gq axels insted much easier and stronger too also wider

yeh you will have a large drama in shackle reversal for a spring under.

you cant cut the perch off on the drivers side and re weld it, all you can do is machine it to a different angle, or weld a new plate on the bottom and use castor wedges.

you need to rotate your pinion and the diff perches, and rotate your steering castor at the knuckles.

soa is easy for it as you can weld the top perches where u need them.

screwy

ok if you can weld new perches ontop why is it not possible to cut the drivers side off and make a mount that will fit??

also how do you go about rotating the steering castor ??

zer0 wrote:ok if you can weld new perches ontop why is it not possible to cut the drivers side off and make a mount that will fit??

also how do you go about rotating the steering castor ??

the mq front diff centre housing is a fully cast one peice unit.....

IF YOU DO IT CORRECTLY, you can weld ontop of cast....... I personally would not advice you cut a large piece of the casting out ( the bottom perch, then weld a new one there, it will be weak as piss... and will crack..... I STRONGLY RECOMEND AGAINST IT, but ppl do things that they want these days, so again..... up to you....

welding ontop of an exsisting cast piece like that is one thing if done right, but weakening it BY CUTTING A PIECE OF THE CAST OFF and welding is a differnt thing...... see there isnt a perch to cut off..... your cutting half the casting structure off......

to rotate the steering knuckles you need to dismantle the entire swivel up section.... then cut the end balls that have the swivel hub pivots on, and then heat them up and twist them then re weld, so the the kingping bearings are on a differnt angle and hense the entire swivel hub is on a different angle so the steering geometry is changed.....

if i was to do a reverse shackle on a spring under, i would grind the angle back as little as i can and weld a new piece of steel that incorporates a perch angle to it....... thus, limiting the amount you meddle with the casting..... thats just me.

all in all, you honestly will not notice a large difference in a reverse shackle on a spring under rig as they done have the spring travel to do the setup justice, and to get the spring travel u need shackle angle and soft springs, which leaves you sitting 3 inches off the ground, and riding it far too low....

the other thing to look at is reverse shackle on a spring under truck, is that ever single rock and obsticle, or log that you go over your shackles will smash on them and hook you up, you will get hooked up as the shackles hang alot lower in the reverse shackle and without the spring hieght you will hook up...... then if you put lift in and get the spring hieght to get the chassis up then u have no flex which would mean that a reverse shackle is going to do nothing.....

dont do this mod cause you think its the way to go, do it cause you know its the way to go.......

screwy

thanks screwy just curious about all this stuff have to have a few more looks at i thinks

Heath