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What Carbs do rovers run??

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 7:27 pm
by JrZook
Gday all,
Not to much in the scene of the rovers but i would like to know what carbs are on them and which year they came out.
Ive heard that they did come out with set of su's and zeniths which seem to be quite good offroad.
Any info especially pic would be great.
I have a project :cool:
Cheers Dan

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 7:58 pm
by muddydigger
They came out with SUs and Strombergs as well. I think that they changed to efi in 87 but dont quote me on that. Some people change the carbs to a single webber.

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:13 pm
by justinC
SU HIF was the best of them all, came out on early RR's and some county models. Also common on Rover cars like P6B's.

Stromberg CD175 are a pile of dirt compared to the HIF SU. Look up Burlen Fuel Systems, and they will give you a bit more info, and they do a new kit to convert 175CD to HIF SU, but it is expensive.
EFI was about 1985/86. Early flapper type Lucas and was average in performance and reliability. Later Hotwire EFI 1990 RR on was much better.

JC

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:52 pm
by jsttry
What choice do you have for replacing the 175CD's? New manifold and holley or a different twin setup?

carby

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 10:06 pm
by Hobie18
Don't run a holley if you'll be using the car off-road/hilly conditions, you will have flooding issues. I had a 350 Holley and it made it unreliable on steep climbs

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 4:50 am
by muddydigger
I have a Rangie that runs a single webber carby. Yes the manifold has been changed. I dont have any problumes off roading but then again mine is also running lpg. The standard Holley carby will give you alsorts of trouble if you go off road because of the flaot chambers and it can starv its self of fuel. efi is the way to go if you want relaible off roading performance. Changing Carbs is an expensive exersersize especially if your talking about a 3.5. A good option is to buy a complete 3.9 (with the hot wire airflow meter not the flapper some early 3.9s had the flapper sostay away from them), and wiring loom with computer and do a complete engine change. 3.9 are not much money now even for a complete set up. Ijust bought one cost $2200 complete. You can pay close to that for new carbies and manifold ect and the 3.5 isnt as good as the 3.9

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:39 am
by jsttry
Am already running a 4.6L, just with the older 3.5 top end.

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:59 am
by JrZook
justinC wrote:SU HIF was the best of them all, came out on early RR's and some county models. Also common on Rover cars like P6B's.

Stromberg CD175 are a pile of dirt compared to the HIF SU. Look up Burlen Fuel Systems, and they will give you a bit more info, and they do a new kit to convert 175CD to HIF SU, but it is expensive.
EFI was about 1985/86. Early flapper type Lucas and was average in performance and reliability. Later Hotwire EFI 1990 RR on was much better.

JC
This HIF su does it have fuel bowl centered under the carb or is it ofset to the left/right?
Is it the 1 3/4in su?
Chasing some pics of rover carbs if anyone has them
Cheers Dan

Ps does anyone know of the zenith-su and what they are like?

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:25 am
by Philip A
Zenith made Stromberg. I think someone on this forum some time ago incorrectly said Zenith SU . AFAIK no such thing exists.

SU stands for Skinners Union. I think Midel now has the rights.

Regards Philip A

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:18 am
by justinC
JrZook wrote:
justinC wrote:SU HIF was the best of them all, came out on early RR's and some county models. Also common on Rover cars like P6B's.

Stromberg CD175 are a pile of dirt compared to the HIF SU. Look up Burlen Fuel Systems, and they will give you a bit more info, and they do a new kit to convert 175CD to HIF SU, but it is expensive.
EFI was about 1985/86. Early flapper type Lucas and was average in performance and reliability. Later Hotwire EFI 1990 RR on was much better.

JC
This HIF su does it have fuel bowl centered under the carb or is it ofset to the left/right?
Is it the 1 3/4in su?
Chasing some pics of rover carbs if anyone has them
Cheers Dan

Ps does anyone know of the zenith-su and what they are like?
Yes it is 1 3/4", and some have external fuel bowls, some don't. AFAIK the float bowls never give trouble, except when O rings etc become hard.

JC

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 3:33 pm
by Aquarangie
The early EFI's were fitted on the 86 model Rangies (VIN suffix 'CA'). My 87 is the old 'crapper flapper' EFI but hass been reliable and not ruuning too rich or lean (runs awfully rich on startup but I disconnected the cold start injector wire, seemd to do the trick :twisted: )

I've had 3 Rangies with strombergs and they're all good, never had any reliability issues.They're not that bad but they can be a headache (steer clear from the auto choke ones, they're the crap ones).

Regards,

Trav

Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 2:58 am
by TLCOR
How does a four-barrel Weber (IIRC) work at steep angles/gradients?

Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 8:00 pm
by amtravic1
TLCOR wrote:How does a four-barrel Weber (IIRC) work at steep angles/gradients?
Carter/edelbrock/weber 4 barrels are basically the same carb. I have a carter on 383 chev. It works fine with spring loaded needles and seats for normal 4wd work. If using for extreme work then something else would work better.

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:42 pm
by Bush65
TLCOR wrote:How does a four-barrel Weber (IIRC) work at steep angles/gradients?
I put an Edelbrock manifold and carb (Edelbrock carbs are re-badged weber) on my rangie. It was the worst modification that I ever did. They are worse than hopeless on steep hills - run like sh.t, stall and then very very hard to re-start.

I then used an adaptor plate to adapt a Quadrajet from a v8 Holden to the Edelbrock manifold, this was heaps better than the Edelbrock/Weber, but no better than the original Strombergs.

Edit: BTW, I finally fixed my carburetion problems for once and for all - the real solution is diesel :D

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:07 am
by TLCOR
Bush65 wrote:
TLCOR wrote:How does a four-barrel Weber (IIRC) work at steep angles/gradients?
I put an Edelbrock manifold and carb (Edelbrock carbs are re-badged weber) on my rangie. It was the worst modification that I ever did. They are worse than hopeless on steep hills - run like sh.t, stall and then very very hard to re-start.

I then used an adaptor plate to adapt a Quadrajet from a v8 Holden to the Edelbrock manifold, this was heaps better than the Edelbrock/Weber, but no better than the original Strombergs.

Edit: BTW, I finally fixed my carburetion problems for once and for all - the real solution is diesel :D
Dammit! :bad-words:

That's my exact combo, are you sure you had everything dialed/tuned in correctly? Not a bad solution, but I won't even go there. How hard would it be to make a RR EFI system work (if these are any good)? Hm, or how about propane?

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:16 am
by Philip A
If you are a proficient DIY er its relatively
straightforward to fit injection to a carby Range Rover.
But it isnt that cheap.
Ideally you should get the tank and fuel lines from an injection car, or you need to fabricate or buy a swirl tank, and fit high pressure lines , and an external fuel pump . And these are expensive.
I have put 3.5 Federal Injection on a 77, and more recently fitted a Thor manifold onto a 14 CUX (3.9) with compensation by unichip.

All Flapper injections are now OLD OLD OLD, so you should replace all the sensors and injectors. and the flapper will be pretty worn out.

If you want to run a 4.6, you will need some sort of compensation to richen the mixture at high revs, either rising rate regulator, or a unichip ( which is $1400). the 3.5 manifold has a small throttle body also so you will lose high end power.
In your position it may be cheaper to buy an aftermarket ECU.
Ideally my recommendation is for a 3.9, 4.0, 4.6 manifold, as it comes with a modern fuel rail for Holden injectors and stepper motor, and maybe a Haltech,Microtech,or if you want to do all the tuning yourself, a Megasquirt. As they are all MAP sensed, you do not need a flapper, or MAF, and these are a major cost if no good.

But you should be prepared either way for a long period of experimentation and in the end to buy dyno time, as what you are doing is not standard spec"bolt on" for any configuation of Rover engine.
I would put aside $2000 at least, unless you get it all free and have your own tame dyno man.
Regards Philip A

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 7:52 pm
by JrZook
Ok so it looks like im after a 1 3/4 SU perferably or a zenith stromberg unit.
Im in brizzy so was wondering if anyone had a carb round in half descent nick for sale or where abouts would be a good place to find one.
Cheers Dan

Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 5:24 pm
by JrZook
Yea just wondering if anyone could help me track down a carb in brizzy?
Where abouts are the rover wreckers around here?
Cheers Dan