Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone know from what thickness material the mighty kong transfer mounts are made from? Im making one of my own design but dont know what thickness material to use.

http://www.rocky-road.com/superbeef.html
if this is what u talking about it states thickness here

I think the "Mighty Kong" is a TrailTough product.
The TrailTough website is not real informative..


On this page

Depending on how you brace it 4mm should do it, 5mm would be heaps

Yeh was thinkin 4mm, its gonna be a different design than the kong tho, it will cup the transfer more so it can easily slide over any stray rocks as i dont need to keep the design at a minimum like they did as i dont have to fit a 2nd gearset.

I'll be interested to see how it works out, I'm making a h/d mount that works with a Roctoy ring. As the ring protrudes under the case a little and I want to make sure it won't catch on rocks etc so a skid plate will be on the cards.

Well i found you cant get 4mm thick flatplate. So im propably going to use 3mm. Ill buy a few meters of 3x200mm and start mocking up and tacking my mount. I think 3mm should be enough with bracing.

if anything always go thicker than what you think that way there should never be any issues with strength issues ......

I would be going 5mm minimum last thing you want is for it to let go in the middle of no where .....



Dan

Was thinking of weight is all. Hmm how do the chassis outriggers hold up? Its all well and good having a nice cradle if the outriggers just bend and break, as they are made from like 2mm and have lotsa lightening holes, especially the passenger side one.

PJ.zook wrote:Was thinking of weight is all. Hmm how do the chassis outriggers hold up? Its all well and good having a nice cradle if the outriggers just bend and break, as they are made from like 2mm and have lotsa lightening holes, especially the passenger side one.

I'm going to take the middle road on this one. I do think there is merit in what Dan is saying, but if folded into a shape 3mm is going to be quite rigid. Perhaps you use that (3mm) for mounts etc, and use 5mm for the parts that will actually be scraped over rocks etc. Even then the weight saving is going to be minimal. Food for though anyway.

I think ill use 5mm all over anyway, so what if it weighs an extra kilo. So should i beef up the transfer mounts attatched to the chassis?

I made my own using a roctoy transfer ring, 5mm thick for all the mounts and a mixture of 5 and 3mm for the bash plate.

ausyota wrote:I made my own using a roctoy transfer ring, 5mm thick for all the mounts and a mixture of 5 and 3mm for the bash plate.

How do the transfer mounts hold up to do abuse the skid plate would cope.

PJ.zook wrote:Was thinking of weight is all. Hmm how do the chassis outriggers hold up? Its all well and good having a nice cradle if the outriggers just bend and break, as they are made from like 2mm and have lotsa lightening holes, especially the passenger side one.

When I strengthened the mounts in my old coily after fitting the series 1 gears I also added bracing to the mounts ......Like you said no use having the beez kneez in a kong style bracket if you havent got the strength in the chassis brkts .......but also depends how it will hold up with what size tyres you are running what ratio gears and so on .....

I just go overboard when fabbin something so I know IT WILL stand the test of time and wont fail me ( well hopefully it wont) the Vit which is under build now I have fabbed the shite on it to hopefully stand up to comp use .....plan is to compete in TT07 Nissan Trials and so on next year ...I know It wont be up the front as the level and money in the rigs that now compete in TT is just phenominal but I will have fun none the less



Dan

just cruizin' wrote:

ausyota wrote:I made my own using a roctoy transfer ring, 5mm thick for all the mounts and a mixture of 5 and 3mm for the bash plate.

How do the transfer mounts hold up to do abuse the skid plate would cope.

I havnt tested it much yet as I broke the front CVs on its first outing
I have these replacement poly mounts fitted to.

The way I figure it, it is better to test the strength of the bash plate then to test the strength of the transfer housing

That's for sure, I just thought the skid plate would be better mounted direct to the chassis.

just cruizin' wrote:That's for sure, I just thought the skid plate would be better mounted direct to the chassis.

Yep, that's what I would be doing too. If you can move the xfer up a bit and make the belly flat. Though to do this properly you really need to do something about that rock anchor of a crossmember, where it is welded to the underside of the chassis rail.

Damo wrote:

just cruizin' wrote:That's for sure, I just thought the skid plate would be better mounted direct to the chassis.

Yep, that's what I would be doing too. If you can move the xfer up a bit and make the belly flat. Though to do this properly you really need to do something about that rock anchor of a crossmember, where it is welded to the underside of the chassis rail.

Ideally this is what I would do too.
You really need a BL to get the transfer up though and I dont really want my zook any higher.

so this is like a bashplate for your transfer case?? Hmm lowest part under the zook? Just wondering. was thinking of making up a plate that runs the length of the truck

ausyota wrote:

Damo wrote:

just cruizin' wrote:That's for sure, I just thought the skid plate would be better mounted direct to the chassis.

Yep, that's what I would be doing too. If you can move the xfer up a bit and make the belly flat. Though to do this properly you really need to do something about that rock anchor of a crossmember, where it is welded to the underside of the chassis rail.

Ideally this is what I would do too.
You really need a BL to get the transfer up though and I dont really want my zook any higher.

You could start chopping the tunnel. Might be too much of a PITA for you though.

Damo wrote:

ausyota wrote:

Damo wrote:

just cruizin' wrote:That's for sure, I just thought the skid plate would be better mounted direct to the chassis.

Yep, that's what I would be doing too. If you can move the xfer up a bit and make the belly flat. Though to do this properly you really need to do something about that rock anchor of a crossmember, where it is welded to the underside of the chassis rail.

Ideally this is what I would do too.
You really need a BL to get the transfer up though and I dont really want my zook any higher.

You could start chopping the tunnel. Might be too much of a PITA for you though.

Maybe one day when I get bored

ausyota wrote:

Damo wrote:

ausyota wrote:

Damo wrote:

just cruizin' wrote:That's for sure, I just thought the skid plate would be better mounted direct to the chassis.

Yep, that's what I would be doing too. If you can move the xfer up a bit and make the belly flat. Though to do this properly you really need to do something about that rock anchor of a crossmember, where it is welded to the underside of the chassis rail.

Ideally this is what I would do too.
You really need a BL to get the transfer up though and I dont really want my zook any higher.

You could start chopping the tunnel. Might be too much of a PITA for you though.

Maybe one day when I get bored

u dont have to cut much at alll to get it flat

i only had to cut to clear the roctoy ring

if you beef up the tcase mounts and the rubber mounts

you will need to brace the chassis mounts as you will just rip them off the chassis or bend them