Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi has any one tried pressure to operate the vacum diff lock?

whats wrong with vacuum? with a decent solanoid set up they work quickly and dont f*** up.

If you're considering it then take a quick lesson in physics first...
The factory diff locks are pressure operated!
the preesure is reduced on one side of a diaphragm an ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE forces the diaphragm to move towards the lower pressure.
Why would you feel the need to decrease the reliability of the system by increasing the working preasures applied to the components beyond what they were manafactured for?
If yours has an issue at the moment the replace the 'vacuum' switches/solenoids with a different design (see thread on this topic in bible) or go visit ARB.. They sell pressure operated ones
Cheers

What tiny said is true and has been said many many many times before

But if you were doing so, just swap the houses around. So on is now off, off is now on. The actuator might have a limit to the amount of pressure it can take though ?? not to sure on that.

Try it and find out report back..

yeah man, dont introduce more complexity to the system. vacume is free, compressed air costs money

Marcin wrote:Hi has any one tried pressure to operate the vacum diff lock?

First is why ????

I had a Mav XLT with the factory diff lock I found it to be sometime's slow to engage and disengage but Chezzy said this to be normal. To help it just gently swerve left to right to left this helps them to engage and disengage. From what Chezzy ( I think ) was saying they have only 4 locking lugs and thus sometime's they dont line up to lock the diff thats why a gentle swerve helps.

no

Thank you all for these words of wisdom. The reason I wanted to use pressure is that my diaphram has a slight leak and my solenoids fill up with shit and stop working, but it seems that a filter might be a better option.

I run pressure through mine ... works fine ! Been like this for the last 1½ years or so ... increased the locking/unlocking speed ...

my factory locker is slow to release sometimes..... i tend to think it's a blocked breather at the solonoid. Sometimes it won't lock while driving straight... as was said before, you need one wheel to move faster than the other for it to drop in.

Patrolden wrote:my factory locker is slow to release sometimes..... i tend to think it's a blocked breather at the solonoid. Sometimes it won't lock while driving straight... as was said before, you need one wheel to move faster than the other for it to drop in.

get one of the MAG dual solanoids and replace the factory one, works much better and the lockers engage and disengage heaps quicker

Rem 22250 wrote:

Marcin wrote:Hi has any one tried pressure to operate the vacum diff lock?

First is why ????

what about on turbo vehicles, where there is a lack of vacum?

I know get around it with a vacum pump and vacum tank, but that's not the issue.. what about vehicles that dont have the vacum pump?

I've just put a factory diff lock in, can anyone tell me which solenoid feeds what on the diff?


Cheers

Honestly Jack up the rear diff (safety first herE :D:D), get a mate to spin on wheel slowly. Simply suck on one of those hoses until it locks. The one that locks is on and using ur powers of deduction the other one must turn it off Simple but effective...

I think this is what you mean ? ?

@ chops..Am I missing something or.. Don't your brakes need vaccuum assisst to operate. I don't think youll find a car without vaccuum. ???

chops wrote:

Rem 22250 wrote:

Marcin wrote:Hi has any one tried pressure to operate the vacum diff lock?

First is why ????

what about on turbo vehicles, where there is a lack of vacum?

I know get around it with a vacum pump and vacum tank, but that's not the issue.. what about vehicles that dont have the vacum pump?

You still must have plenty of vacuum or that brake pedal would be getting pretty hard to push mate, you just pull vac from before the compressor, or leave it where it was and use a one way valve

Thats petrol, diesel will have a vac pump

It looks like one of the solenoids isn't working. Had the hoses hooked up wrong, so when turned off, the diff engaged.
Swapped hoses around, and it will not engage, but will still work the opposite if swapped back.

Is there a part number for a better replacement for these?


Cheers,
Dave

Yar dude..

What you are describing is the exact same problem I had when I fitted a factor rear locker housing with the standard solenoids. They were bugger.. basically one would always stay open and the other would flick on and off...

You NEED to get one of the solenoids discussed in the thread about this exact thing. The vent the vacuum in between switching to on/off and I think this really helps with the time it takes to actuate..

They cost around $110. They are many times better than the original ....

From a previous Thread:

"The valve was bought from Pneutec 03 9879 6499 in Ringwood, Vic
Phone number is 03 9879 6499 ask for Damian
Part number is 45A-GCI-DDBA-13A
You have to plumb it up backwards, ie vacuum from engine to the exhaust port of the valve, A and B ports to the diff lock actuator and a silencer / filter on the pressure port to keep thr crap out. "

It did cost about 110 dollars delivered but is the best thing you can do for the factory locker...

I followed this guys advice and purchased one after I had fitted a factory locker rear end in place of my drum rear. The locker basically engages instantaneously and likewise when disengaging. Mainly due to the exhaust port ie when switching from on to off or vice versa vaccuum in the opposing line is vented. This stop's the effect of having two of the lines sucking for supremecy.... if ya get me...

You will understand when you get the thing. How it needs to be wired up.
I still haven't come up with a decent way of mounting this thing on the firewall. Soooo.....

The factory solenoids are shite. These are THE replacement....


http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=33706

Thanks for the info, have ordered the valve, but it's 5 weeks away

Can anyone tell me if the solenoids on the rhs of the engine bay (in a row of 3) are the same as those for the difflock?
Would like to get the difflock going this week, so if they are the same, I'll grab a couple from the wreckers.

Also, the MAC valves in the link, do I need 2, or just the 1?


Cheers,
Dave

I think I'll do the same thing. I would LOVE mine to activate and deactivate quicker than they do, cause they take forever at present.

* Will it make any difference if the car is a diesel?
* My car has factory lockers front and rear, so do I need one or two of these solenoids?

THanks heaps for the info peoples, you're awesome.

Kiwi, The one I used and it's been worken ever since, was just an old valve off a dizzy that I got at the wreckers for $2. It will never work as fast as an ARB one because it only has four prongs that it can engage with on the other half, If that makes sense!

You Just need the one mate and they are worth the wait..

It is a REALLY good design and very very easy to plumb up. I think the reason behind them being so effective is when switching between on/off it vents the vaccuum. THe problem I had was with the old solenoids not actually venting the vaccum so you would get this sucking war going on (if you follow me)..

They're on the RHS of the Engine bay near a compliance plate type thing. I think pajeros with the factory locker use a similar sort of thing and if it is just for the weekend you could perhaps use that.

Well, turns out that it wasn't the solenoid after all.
After re-checking everything, I found I was getting power to one solenoid when off, but when turning the switch on, there was no power to the other.

Managed to find that there were 2 possible plugs for the switch to plug into, and while I had the right one, someone at Nissan had put one of the solenoid feed wires into the other unused plug

A quick cut and join, and the locker now works

Still getting a new MAC valve though....

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.



Dave

I have a 1990 maverick and it doesnt have the factory locker, what are the costs involved in getting hold of one and putting it in or is it just easier to buy the arb or tjm lockers

I paid $1000nz for mine, complete, and only did so as I can sell my LSD to get a little cash back.

Was going to do the swap myself, but could jack the truck high enough, so had to pay $300 to have it swapped.
Ended up paying more than I would have liked, but after I sell my old diff, it would've set me back $1000.

If the TJM lockers were reasonably priced here, I would've gone for one, but will probably add one to the front in the future.



Dave