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engine swaps help meee!!!!!

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:46 pm
by 2roky
i'm starting to seriously think of doing a engine swap in my 1990 f300 what sized engine does everyone think i should put in and what type requires the least work. i want something around 2L or bigger.

any help would be much appreiated.

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 4:24 pm
by CWBYUP
v6 commodore

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 6:23 pm
by HotFourOk
Why over 2L?... you can get good power from smaller engines
Toyota 4AGZE has been talked about quite a lot. (1.6L Supercharged)
SR20DE(T) would be awesome.. and lots of mods for them. (2.0L n/a and turbo)

The 3.8L V6 Commodore swap has been done by a member on here. Buckets of torque also

Just try a search

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 6:57 pm
by RockyF75
Cause only Coke and Milk come in 2L ;) ... 2.8L diesel :idea: :D Swap the drivetrain while ur at it and rid yourself of IFS :D

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 7:26 pm
by r0ck_m0nkey
I am going to suggest a Toyota 3RZ-FE. 2.7L 4cyl found in 98 onward Hiluxs, fit an earlier model Hilux Gearbox and Transfer which has the front driveshaft output on the right hand side behind it.

Should go alright in something the weight of a Feroza.

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:28 pm
by HotFourOk
This would be a great idea, as it opens up the gearbox/transfer options as said.

You would then fit Lux axles also, you wouldn't go to all the trouble to swap a motor and keep the crappy Feroza stock suspension :D

So basically, a Hilux with a Feroza shell on top :armsup:

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:46 pm
by The Rocky
CWBYUP wrote:v6 commodore

x2 :D :D

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 8:52 pm
by 2roky
i'd like to get rid of the ifs but i don't have the funds at the mo. how hard is it to fit a CA16 and a SR18 there both nissan motors cause i think i can get one real cheap any one know much about them

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 9:15 pm
by CWBYUP
personally i would say go the suspension way before the motor unless your is stuffed.

throw hilux diffs under it and then play with the motor. after driving a roza buggy with 3 link front and standard 1.6 and some exhaust work the travel made up for the lack of power.

with the ifs you need to give it numbers it dosent have to get it any where, go 3 link and you won't belive the differance.

Or just throw gq's under it with a v6 and extend the wheel base and you'll be happy but you might need to rob a bank.

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:21 pm
by 2roky
stupid ? wots 3 and 4 link an how they work i have heard of it and know its good but need details as of what makes them so great lol i not too mechanical

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:21 pm
by *BESTY*
HotFourOk wrote: So basically, a Hilux with a Feroza shell on top :armsup:

:D :D :D :D :finger:

Sounds like what my old Feroza used to be ;)

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:00 pm
by CWBYUP
The 3 link set uses coil springs and shocks for the suspension and is basicaly 3 point that link the chassis to the diff.

its so good because it gives the diff a lot more flex than IFS.

My mechanic is doing a 3link front and 4 link rear for $1500- if i supply the diffs and springs, so its not that expensive considering the average engine swap would cost a $1000- as a starting point.

it all depends on what you want out of the vechile.


Nick

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:25 pm
by 2roky
tru but its all dollars that i dont have how hard is it to do somthing like that your self coz i just bourght a rally truk thats running ifs and mite have a go at putting a solid front diff on it

Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 10:27 am
by MightyMouse
To keep it simple it seems a complete swap including gearbox and transfer might be easist - if you must change.

I am sticking with the HD engine ( Blown ) but changing the box and transfer case so I can get an auto and crawler gears. Rear diff is Toyota Hilux (locker) or it will be when the locker actually arrives ( TJM Prolock ).

But if you must change then...

A V6 Vitara setup wood be cool, but of course Hilux etc etc are available.
Keeping the whole engine/driveline seems to make things much easier.

If you want to leave the IFS for whatever reason ( and I am going to ) then an option is to fit LONGER front control arms which gives more travel and depending on the angles gives more ride height. Widetrack CV's and shafts cover the drive but the arms would have to be fabricated or the originals extended. More details to do but not serious mods.

Not a quick solution but doesn't cost millions and leaves the basic mechanicals in place. Will do this in the "fullness of time" but havn't actually done it yet so its just an idea for now.

Its "doable" if you can fabricate stuf.

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:06 pm
by brennan
what model commodore engine fits? and do you need to change gear box, drivetrains, diffs etc....??
thanks

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:24 pm
by *BESTY*
brennan wrote:what model commodore engine fits? and do you need to change gear box, drivetrains, diffs etc....??
thanks
VN - onwards
Marks Adapter Kit to suit Hilux Gearbox
continue with hilux running gear + diffs.

Talk to an Engineer to see if they will allow it

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 6:59 am
by lay80n
CWBYUP wrote:The 3 link set uses coil springs and shocks for the suspension and is basicaly 3 point that link the chassis to the diff.

its so good because it gives the diff a lot more flex than IFS.

My mechanic is doing a 3link front and 4 link rear for $1500- if i supply the diffs and springs, so its not that expensive considering the average engine swap would cost a $1000- as a starting point.

it all depends on what you want out of the vechile.


Nick
Dude, you need to explain link a bit better. A 3 link would be radius arm setup, as in 2 radius arms and a panhard rod. What you are describing is a 3 link plus panhard rod, as in one upper, two lower and a panhard that connect the housing to the vehicle. Radius arms are crap so try to avoid them :D. As for coils and shocks, it can use whatever springing method it wants, airbags, coils, air shocks, coil overs, hydraulics, even dual shackle leaves of 1/4 eliptical leaves.

Basically the 3/4/2/1/whatever link indicates how many points of contact the housing has to the chassis. Each can be made to work with a variety of spring setups. Each system has they pro's and con's. Leaves are still good too, so dont discount them totally.

Layto....