Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

I'm looking at getting a new Wheels, and i'm thinking about getting a 80 series Land Cruiser.

Just got a couple of questions for you guys,

1) what’s the issues/estimated costs in going for say 33's or 35's tyres?

2) Any particular year models issues i should look out for?

I'm also looking at getting either a diesel or turbo diesel how many km is too many km on these vehicles and when you expect you would need to do a rebuild and what kind of costs (estimated of course) would be involved?

Thanks inadvance.

Quenten.

These cruisers are expensive to fix, so it is important to get a good one first of all. the diesels are more than the petrols and the t/d more again.
If you can get a 93 or later, you get bigger brakes but then have to run metric 16 inch tyres where as the early models ran 15/s
early t/d had problems, but dont let that put you off, 300k is about the usual milage and going strong, god hunting
Andrew

318,000 on on my 91 DX. Had a injector pump rebuild about 100,000 ago, a power steer pump and steer box rebuild 20,000 ago. Apart from that, she's well looked after, given regular oil changes and filters, and is the best vehicle I have ever owned. Owned a couple of luxes over the years and can't compare a cruiser to them. Put a couple of lockers in the sucker and it's unstoppable.

My 80 series has done 200,000km & still runs well, could easly double that i recon.
The oil is still clean after 2000km since its last oil change so it pays to look after them.

Best 4by iv ever owned too !

BTW- DX80, what did the power steering box overhaul slog ya ?

An exchange power steer pump, installed cost me $350.00

Sounds about right, just seeing if i got ripped off.

DX80 wrote:An exchange power steer pump, installed cost me $350.00

shit thats not bad!! i have a wicked leak in my powersteer pump, the oil drips on the panhard...

where abouts did you get the pump done at?

and i agree my 80 is the best thing since sliced bread. fitted a turbo, dual lockkers, 35's, 4:88 ratios, all the bar work is done, high mount... the list goes on but all in all she is a beast and it has 230k on the clock and i think should be good for another 200k easily.

Having a seal kit put through yours will cost the same as a exchange replacement + any damaged parts.

BTW- try not to twist the sector shaft in the steering box (easy to do)as this wil bump up the cost by $600.

Active power steering at St Peters.

power steer pumps are piss easy to rebuild... do it yourself!

of all the 4bys that i work on (at a 4wd workshop) nothing goes past an 80 series... (or toyotas in general)

the 1hz would be the easiets engine to work on and have the least problems out of any of the other cars we work on.

Hey Quentin
Some issues to look for in 80's:

1. Pre 93 will take 15" wheels - Post 93 only 16"Wheels. I have a 96 model and I am a bit limited in tyre selection becuase I run 16" rims.

2. 6/94 saw the update model come in and there are some differences between the models. All my mates cruisers are pre 94 so I cant share CV's axles etc. (Havent counted splines yet, but Im told they are different)

3. If you can go the factory turbo model. The pump out heaps more power over the standard motor and are much better towing and on loose hills off road.

4. for standard gearing - Non Turbo, 33s are pretty good. Going much bigger means that you need to do loads of hills in 1st screamin your nut off. If you go to 35's it may pay to look at gears as well. 33's get me most places, but I'd love 35's.

Anyway, good luck finding the right car.

Cheers

Peter

Hey Quentin
Some issues to look for in 80's:

1. Pre 93 will take 15" wheels - Post 93 only 16"Wheels. I have a 96 model and I am a bit limited in tyre selection becuase I run 16" rims.

2. 6/94 saw the update model come in and there are some differences between the models. All my mates cruisers are pre 94 so I cant share CV's axles etc. (Havent counted splines yet, but Im told they are different)

3. If you can go the factory turbo model. The pump out heaps more power over the standard motor and are much better towing and on loose hills off road.

4. for standard gearing - Non Turbo, 33s are pretty good. Going much bigger means that you need to do loads of hills in 1st screamin your nut off. If you go to 35's it may pay to look at gears as well. 33's get me most places, but I'd love 35's.

Anyway, good luck finding the right car.

Cheers

Peter

Gday
the pump on a diesel is rebuildable using a Toyota kit that i am guessing now is inbetween 40 and 80 dollars to buy. Then there is a bearing not included that (if needs replacing) is $2
There is an o ring on the inlet pipe of the pump body that likes to leak air when pump running (noisy operation)aswell as leak oil when the pump stops, and it is 20 cents and one 12mm bolt.
Andrew

2. 6/94 saw the update model come in and there are some differences between the models. All my mates cruisers are pre 94 so I cant share CV's axles etc. (Havent counted splines yet, but Im told they are different)

Pet
Al the 8/92 and later constant 4wd c/v's are thesame except for ones that run ABS. (8/92 is the start of the twincam petrol 80 and larger brakes)
Heres where it gets tricky, All pre 8/92 model cruisers aswell as all standard van part time c/v up to the last 80 series are thesame aswell.(1/4 inch shorterthan late models)
You can fit a late c/v to an early diff if you use the late driveplate (this is why they are different (late c/v is 1/4 inch longer in spline as is the drive plate and this stops them wearing as much)
Andrew

Andrew
I have a part time standard built in 96. I was chasing around for a deal just last week as I was in a comp last weekend and wanted a new spare. When I spoke with Toyota, Repco and a CV reconditioning guy they all told me that all 80's after 6/94 used a different CV.

But ......... I am not really sure myself. As expected I busted a CV at the comp but being on the final stage and since I had steering still I just kep driving using 2wd where I could. So In the next day or two I will need to pull mine out and check it.

The new CV I have is for a later model, so Ill let you know if it is different to the one I have just bought. IS the major difference only in the legth of the spline??

Cheers

Peter

Andrew
I have a part time standard built in 96. I was chasing around for a deal just last week as I was in a comp last weekend and wanted a new spare. When I spoke with Toyota, Repco and a CV reconditioning guy they all told me that all 80's after 6/94 used a different CV.

But ......... I am not really sure myself. As expected I busted a CV at the comp but being on the final stage and since I had steering still I just kep driving using 2wd where I could. So In the next day or two I will need to pull mine out and check it.

The new CV I have is for a later model, so Ill let you know if it is different to the one I have just bought. IS the major difference only in the legth of the spline??

Cheers

Peter

Mmm this goes against what ive seen. If the c/v you have bought is for a dx, it will be the short one, if it is for a gxl it will be longer.
Thats all that is different.
Andrew

I 've got my 93' 80 - I had a 47 series ute before- my housemate has one - both of ours are pov pack ex-governments + great buys.

Don't put off by the non turbo engine - I love my 1hz - with a 2.5" exhaust and pump tickling - she flies - people swear i'm in a turbo! The oil. fuel and air filters are a must - be religious and they will last! I have had 32's , 33's and now 35's all on standard gearing - have lost some grunt with standard gearing - but so what. The 50mm body lift, 3' coils, twin shock front end and beefed up engine make her unstoppable.

The turbo aftermarket option is a good idea if you can afford - you end up making as much power as a Nissan turbo + intercooled Diesel 4.2L and you still have the intercooler left to wind the boost up again on!!!

I'd have to say that the only drama has been my diff housing - my fault and brakes get eaten a bit - If you look after them - nothing beats it in the scrub - I've taken mine to hell and back and still get decent mileage with 280,000 on the clock.... last 80 clicks done since January '02

Grab a standard diesel - lift it lock it and love it!

got the 1fz-fe in dad's 92' 80 series.. 340,000 on the clock.. hasnt had a lot done to it.. bit more of a cruiser than a crawler.. still runs tip top, revs out to 5500 and dosnt miss a beat all the way there.. these petrol motors dont compare to the TD.. but they get close.. and if your not to serious about offroading, just want something for the odd dirt track and watever then dont look past a petrol.. prob on average 5 grand cheaper than a deisel.. weve got 340 outa ours and recon its good for another 150,000.. treat them right and they will last a long while

for hardcore offroading dont go past the deisel for its chug factor tho

goodluck cheers!

If ya going for the petrol engine make sure its the multi valve one, the older petrol engines use more fuel for less power.

Hmmm. Thanks for the replies so far guys! couple more Q's

So the Turbo Diesel is the go when it comes to the grunt factor etc.

So looking at the km factor, few diesels I have looked at are around the 150-160k mark these are 1994 Models and they want around 28k for these vehicles and are only standard diesels not turboed!?!?! Are these people insane????

So to look at 33’s what kind of upgrades do you need to do body lift? Springs? Longer shocks?

Also the stocker Natural Aspirated Diesels how do you find them on the highway overtaking etc?


*edit some Englase

Personaly i wouldn't get a 80 series without a turbo, just too sluggish.

Test drive one & then try a turbo model & you will see what i mean, well worth the extra cash.

You should try & find a good T/diesel 80 in north QLD, damn hard to find & if you do find one they want a fortune for it, i looked for 6 months for mine & ended up buying one in Brizzy, top condition with heaps of extras.

Dude - on the highway the stocker is responsive - now - but before it was a pain - you have to expect a big of lack when you are punching 2.2 - 2.8 tonne along. The TD models are good - aside form the design flaws in early ones - they chew big ends out.

Also if you test 1 or 2 and find one that goes really well - avoid it - the boost would have been turned up and the motors don't last anywhere near as long once the psi factor kicks in....

80diesel4play wrote:Also if you test 1 or 2 and find one that goes really well - avoid it - the boost would have been turned up and the motors don't last anywhere near as long once the psi factor kicks in....

When i was looking around i test drove a T/diesel 80 from a mine site or something before the yard had a chance to clean it up & it drove like a rocket !!! Couldn't belive how fast it went.
Lifted the bonnet & noticed oil seeping out the intake manifold.
Went well but wouldn't touch it with a barge pole.

I always remember someone saying that an engine runs its best before it dies.......don't know how true this is.

yeah guys,

I’m still looking around the TD Stockers are like rocking horse sh1t.

But I’m still looking around for something half descent. my biggest problem is my current vehicle, TJ.. Nobody wants to give me anything descent for it which sh1ts me to no end.

Its a excellent vehicle but is not suited to my needs. Besides that just to put 33"'s under it you need a SYE and for 2 grand for (one part before you even start) its just ridiculous.

Qten,

check out for sale section of www.lcool.org for a good t/d
No affiliation etc
Andrew

dow50r wrote:These cruisers are expensive to fix, so it is important to get a good one first of all. the diesels are more than the petrols and the t/d more again.
If you can get a 93 or later, you get bigger brakes but then have to run metric 16 inch tyres where as the early models ran 15/s
early t/d had problems, but dont let that put you off, 300k is about the usual milage and going strong, god hunting
Andrew

not a problem these days 315/75R16 and now Goodyear import them here... it's all good

Hey Andrew

You guessed it, the supplied CV was about 1/2 an inch longer than the other one. So after a heap of unessecary running around I now have a CV back in the car.

Told ALL the people who told me otherwise that the CV was not correct and that the standard is different to the GXL after 94, and they just gave me those blank stares. Toyota then tried to charge me $45 for an axel shaft seal, so it is the last time I will bother visiting my local Toyota dealer. Drove two minutes down the road and bought it for $10.

Anyway thanks for the advice Andrew, I should have listened in the first place and saved loads of running around.

Cheers

Peter

Thanks Guys,

I ended up buying a sedan and i'm going to buy myself a cheap 4wd.

Mainly due no offence guys i just couldn't belive how much some yards wanted for a 91/94 crusier. in my eyes it was insane!

anyway thanks for all your efforts!

Qten,