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Turbo Feroza thanks
Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:28 pm
by asboltau
Hi! Since last I was on here I was asking about dowells in the F300 flywheel and thanks to those who replied. The turboed Feroza is ready to get handed over to my wife within the fortnight. Interesting thing! I've spent the last few weeks trying to remove power out of it! First pull on the dyno and it went 110KW at the wheels at 3800rpm before I pulled it up. Remeber this is with standard pistons and on normal unleaded petrol. If any one is interested I can expand on what is like now. Can anyone tell me whether I should get after market CV joints or genuine as the torque the engine makes has found a few worn weak spots.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:47 pm
by Bowhunter
Mate did you do the conversion yourself or get it done at a workshop somewhere?
cheers,
Luke

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:48 pm
by HotFourOk
woah, 110kw at the wheels is awesome
Please post up pics and other info, the guys on here would love it!
I think genuine CVs would cost the earth.. a reconditioned shaft should do the trick I'd say... How often do you go offroad?
I was quoted $800 for a new drivers side CV when it packed it in

Conversion
Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 8:06 pm
by asboltau
Hi
The conversion was done by myself. The exhaust manifold I made out of 304 schedule 40 s/s pipe elbows, M400 motec ecu, bosch motorsport pressure regulator, mitsubishi evo1 injectors slot straight into the fuel rail. As the car is my wife's I made it so she can't rev it over 4000rpm until the oil temperature is over 60 degree C. I installed boost control proportional to throttle position and rpm to control power delivery. Three inche S/S exhaust to just before the diff then into 2.5 inche. Activated overrun fuel cut to stop the exhaust cakle when you backed off. The thing is very quiet fo rsuch a big exhaust system. Had to chop four cores off the intercooler to get it inconspicuous. I will get a few photos toghther.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 8:08 pm
by Bowhunter
Maaaate...can't wait to see pics!!
About what did all that cost ya to complete?
cheers,
Luke

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 8:16 pm
by asboltau
Cost Shit loads but not in just money but time. I still have to send the intake plumbing away to get HPC coated. Had to reinstall and modify the genuine air box t slow it down for reliability.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 8:39 pm
by asboltau
Here's another question! How do we attach photos so you guys can have a look?
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:17 pm
by HotFourOk
Use a site such as Photobucket, Putfile, Imageshack.us to upload them to, then post the link in a reply, using the [img] code

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:32 pm
by asboltau
Thanks for the advice.
So heres when I was building the feroza. Will have more photos tomorrow because I'm currently at work and these are all I have on me at the moment. Notice that i machined up a magna crank angle sensor for the triggering of the ECU and went DFI coil packs.
regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:37 am
by murcod
Wow! Impressive.....
I take it you do that sort of thing for a living?
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:03 am
by asboltau
No I don't actually. It's just a hobby or a bit more, though I've had to register an ABN no. because I've done a few for people.
regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:41 am
by tabrocky
Well done mate.
Looks like you've put a lot of thought into it.
There's nothing quite like the satisfaction you get when you do a job such as that and it turns out so well.
Cheers.
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:47 am
by HotFourOk
Thats awesome work!
Post up more pics of it installed etc.. cant wait

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 11:58 am
by asboltau
Here's the s/s exhaust in one piece on the ground. I lipped the exhaust flanges so I didn't need gaskets. It's three inche all the way till the back muffler then goes to 2 1/2 inche. Placed wide band lambda sensor and EGT probe in it as well so can tune correctly. Also made a compensation on boost control so if EGT went above 900 degrees C then Boost would drop off.
regards
Ashley Bolt

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 1:09 pm
by crowey
Mate that looks fantastic. You have done a great job!!!
What sort of money are you looking at all up???
If you dont mind me asking?
Cheers
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:19 pm
by asboltau
To give you some idea, the manifold materials cost about 250 dollars but took about 40hrs in labour. Engine rebuild with decompressing, port job, rings about 400 dollars but 40hrs labour. Motec M400 with advanced features, loom, sensors, boost control valve, idle speed control valve, EGT probe and amplifier, additional temp and pressure sensors about 5300 dollars and about 45hrs labour. Hair dryer new 1050 dollars + 90 bend modification 100 dollars. exhaust system materials tube, flanges, cat, muffler and hangers about 1100 dollars but 60 hrs includes dump pipe. Bosch motorsport regulator and fuel rail mod with injectors about 950 dollars and 20 hrs labour. Plumbing which is s/s tube 2 1/2 inche cost 250 dollars and about 60 hrs labour. Intercooler and aluminum bends about 400 dollars with 50 hrs labour. Also hours of dicken around!! Theres more just can't think of it now.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:25 pm
by tufferoza
that is sweet looking gear, would like to see pics of it all in the eng bay.
how are you controling the boost? i mean the actuator to make it less when it gets to a certain exhaust temp..
makes my turbo conversion look very ghetto (but i am a ghetto modder, hehe).

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:42 pm
by asboltau
The motec drives a boost control valve until the manifold pressure I have in a table which is RPM verses throttle position is reached. The manifold is connected to this boost control valve and when it is off the manifold pressure goes straight through to the actuator. When the boost control valve turns on the actuator pressure is bypassed to atmosphere. This is a pulse width modulated output having the resonant frequency that of the boost control valve. In simple terms the more valve on time the more boost in the manifold. I then set up a compensation table that looked at the exhaust gas temperature so when the EGT was 900 degrees C it would remove boost from my look up table.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:14 pm
by Bowhunter
All that for your wife's car? Unreal mate, unreal!!
Luke

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:18 pm
by asboltau
My wife is one of these freaks of nature that has to race everyone from the street lights, but doesn't want to give up here Feroza. You should see my kids hang on in the car.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Ps. I can't really talk I have a 1200 ute with 344HP at the wheels and I'm doing a upgrade for that at this moment because its not quick enough.
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:25 pm
by Bowhunter
No criticism mate....good on ya I'm

with envy...
Like John said, any pics you have of under the bonnet would be great to see
cheers.
8)
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:26 pm
by asboltau
I'll get some together.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:27 pm
by Bowhunter
Can't wait...drool drool...

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:32 pm
by tufferoza
asboltau wrote:The motec drives a boost control valve until the manifold pressure I have in a table which is RPM verses throttle position is reached. The manifold is connected to this boost control valve and when it is off the manifold pressure goes straight through to the actuator. When the boost control valve turns on the actuator pressure is bypassed to atmosphere. This is a pulse width modulated output having the resonant frequency that of the boost control valve. In simple terms the more valve on time the more boost in the manifold. I then set up a compensation table that looked at the exhaust gas temperature so when the EGT was 900 degrees C it would remove boost from my look up table.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
i know how to 'bleed' the actuator for more boost (do that on the feral). with the one on my feroza i only run 3.5-4 psi max at the moment and had to modify the actuator rod so it would open earlier than the factory 7psi setting it has.
maybe i missed it in your posts above, but what is your normal boost setting and whats it go back to when the ex temp gets too high?
Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 2:56 am
by ferozamaniac
we need pictures to get an idea of how the car is running on the streets
Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:19 am
by Bowhunter
ferozamaniac wrote:we need pictures to get an idea of how the car is running on the streets

A roza smokin up line lockies!! Hell yeah

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:23 pm
by Croz
WOW!!
Suddenly the old feroza isnt so boring...

for those that dont know me I was round here many moons ago, but moved to a Forester GT, now I find it hard to drive a NA car!!
This thread is great, love to see something different being done and love the custom fabrication and welding.
Cant wait to see more pics!
P.S. Tufferoza... I knew your car as Ferocious, glad to see an equally crazy guy to Paul owns it now!! Great work!
Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:50 pm
by tufferoza
O/T... hahaha, Ferocious! love it. i have put a sticker on the top of my windscreen which reads 'Roza on Roids'...

Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 6:12 pm
by asboltau
Hi guys
Have just got home from out of town. As soon as I can get the photos loaded into photobucket I'll post them. Just remember this thing is still in development so I haven't tapped the loom up and I have a lot of sensors wired all over it for logging purposes. I still have to send the intake plumbing away for HPC coating, zinc plate the air box and clean the engine bay up.
To answer the question about what its like on the street, well, a pleasure to drive. A lot of throttle response and shit loads of torque every where with a big hump about 4000, this is still on normal unleaded petrol.
I still haven't explored antilag as yet, that's if anyone knows what that is.
Regards
Ashley Bolt
Posted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 11:54 pm
by HotFourOk
Sounds good mate, cant wait to see more of it
Are you contemplating an antilag system on it also??
The turbo will get hot hot if you use say a 'bang-bang' type of setup.. And I don't think it lasts very long on street driven cars.
Then again, just use left foot braking to keep the snail on boost
Or can you program your MoTec to control the fuel mixture and timing when you deccelerate? That'd be cool.. would be weird to drive for the first time
What turbo are you running and at what boost?? Is lag much of an issue anyway?