Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Am looking at buying a 2.8td Rodeo as a replacement for my "92 2wd petrol dualcab

Power from the 2.8td seems average @ 74Kw...

Assume adding an intercooler will help? I here people suggest the top mount unit from 3.0ltr td

Heard that the Rodeo can also generate around 81kw with a small adjustment to the injector pump, can anyone shed light on this?

Any pics or guides would be really appreciated, can't see alot of pics etc here through work firewall so if someone can email pics i'll message me addy.

Cheers
Peter

go for a front mounted intercooler... get it retuned properly on a dyno and you won't believe how much grunt it will have.... i could out pull a V6 4Runner in mine..... would climb hills in 5th gear that it previously had trouble doing in 3rd.....

Hava,
I replaced the std exhaust on mine with a 2.5 inch system.
I had MTQ in toowoomba readjust the boost aneroid to supply more fuel and check the EGT after the 2.5 was fitted.
Power went from 54 to 66kw at the rear wheels, this doesnt sound like much but is a 20% improvement. Totally transformed the driveing experience, it would take off without nearly stalling, maintain 5th gear up hills I had to previously change back to fourth or third. It gained an 11 kmh increse over a set uphill piece of road over a set distance.
All this with no increse in fuel consumption in normal driveing, it does use slightly more towing and in sand than it used to but is more capable for all that.
As Ive just bought a camper trailer that weighs in around 700 kg empty the top mount intercooler I have may see some use in the not too distant furture, if I can source the scoop and assorted brackets without selling the first borns limbs.....

If your deisel's got a CPU you can get a Tunit piggyback unit hooked up. The 4wd Monthly team had Berrima deisel hook one up to an RA and put it on the dyno before and after. It gave 30% power and a 32% torque increase at the wheels. This was without any other mods.

2.5" mandrel bent exhaust
intercooler (of some kind)
and adjust the fuelling on a dyno

will see about 150rwhp and a huge increase in torque.

the turbo also kicks in from about 1500rpm instead of 2500rpm.

much smoother, and still maintain good economy (if not better).

It is a great little motor.

thank you all for the advice

I work for Holden so get an employee discount through motortraders and the like...

Guzzi, is/are top mount intercooler parts still avail through Holden or Motor traders? If so i'll get some pricing...

I have been looking for a 4wd dual cab for daily driver & camping

Me thinks Rodeo will be my choice, have been happy with my current 2wd 92 model thus far

Cheers
Peter

Havabigjuan wrote:thank you all for the advice

I work for Holden so get an employee discount through motortraders and the like...

Guzzi, is/are top mount intercooler parts still avail through Holden or Motor traders? If so i'll get some pricing...

I have been looking for a 4wd dual cab for daily driver & camping

Me thinks Rodeo will be my choice, have been happy with my current 2wd 92 model thus far

Cheers
Peter

Have a look at other cars with suitable intercoolers (dimensions and inlet/outlets), then search wreckers. You will save money and can still pick up a good product. Talk to importers too, as they often deal with modified cars and might have an OE intercooler sitting round from a swap.

Layto....

get the dump pipe from the turbo modified as well...... that along with a free flowing 2 1/2" zorst, and you will feel a big difference straight away. Then look at the I/C

thanks all,

looks like i'll modify my budget to include exhaust if needed...

i assume the dump pipe is the one from the turbo to the exhaust?

is there a best design or size for the mods?

does size of intercooler need to be in line with turbo size in any way?

or is bigger better?

cheers
Peter

bigger the better .....to a point. the bigger it is the more cooling you get but also more lag, exspecially with the longer pipeing of a front mount.

if your not winding the boost right up then keep it fairly small.

not sure with the Rodeo but would't the bighorn/MU top mount + bonnet scoop fit ??

Mate,
I found mine at a wreckers, it came off a bighorn import or a 3.1 td jackaroo.
While the intercooler its self wasnt too badly priced the pri*k of a wrecker wanted $100 more for all the brackets that hold it on and wouldnt let me buy the scoop and tunnel, I had to buy the whole bonnet, He also wanted $50 for the secondhand rubber hose from the turbo to the intercooler . $15 brand new from holden. nuff said. The intercooler bolts right in, with mine I will need to rotate the turbo outlet houseing 90 degrees and make up a pipe to the cooler and " gulp " cut a suitable hole in the bonnet and mount the scoop.
The dual cab makes a good mule for camping and beach work, they struggle a bit in really rough stuff mainly due to a lack of ground clearence and wheel travel, good vechicle otherwise.

Personally i would put a good exhaust above a IC on the wish list. Having owned and modified T/D's, a good exhaust is probably more important thatn an IC first off.

Layto....

lay80n wrote:Personally i would put a good exhaust above a IC on the wish list. Having owned and modified T/D's, a good exhaust is probably more important thatn an IC first off.

Layto....

thanks for replies guys...think i'll look at exhaust first then intercooler after as it sounds like something i'll gather parts for as i like the idea of top mount & bonnet scoop

what constitutes a good exhaust? I assume free flowing 2 1/2", quality muffler...

can someone fill me in on what is a good dump pipe mod

Guzzi, yeah will just be a beach & camping mule, won't be tackling rough stuff for a while

Who have you guys used to do the tune up?

Jimmy

Jimmu wrote:Who have you guys used to do the tune up?

Jimmy

was going to be a follow up question...

who is worthy in SA of doing adjustments/tune...

found a private sale 98 4wd dual cab with 3" calmini kit, uprated rear leafs, snorkel, 31x10.5 mickey thomsons/dick cepek tyres, bull bar

184k k's on clock which not so happy about

will need zorst mods & intercooler...

will inspect next week

The isuzu diesels handle the KM's pretty well, thats not taht many KMs really. Drive it and check its service history. If service history is good and car drives well, motor is probably in good nick. They are pretty tough if looked after. As for exhaust, look at 2.5 - 3 inch diamiter, mandrell bent with 3 inch dump pipe. Go for low restirction, and only one muffler (remember turbo acts as a muffler for exhaust gass). You will get more noise, but the increase in go should be noticabel, and the sound si good.

Layto....

lay80n wrote:The isuzu diesels handle the KM's pretty well, thats not taht many KMs really. Drive it and check its service history. If service history is good and car drives well, motor is probably in good nick. They are pretty tough if looked after. As for exhaust, look at 2.5 - 3 inch diamiter, mandrell bent with 3 inch dump pipe. Go for low restirction, and only one muffler (remember turbo acts as a muffler for exhaust gass). You will get more noise, but the increase in go should be noticabel, and the sound si good.

Layto....

Cheers Layto,

prob prefer 2.5" zorst, less noise i guess; i assume can go a 3" dump pipe & rest of system 2.5"? want the benefits but not the noise so much

few people here have said 184k k's not too bad, but just my petrol side saying get lowest k's possible

3" calmini kit / upgraded suspension is attractive to me, not so much the big tyres as i hate spending $$ on tyres

have spoken to the seller and he said has receipts for service history

will organise an inspection / drive next week some time

Have a look for sure. The pipe size has little effect on the volume of noise (dB reading). This noise is level is mostly controled bythe muffler. Basically go for the least resistance. I had a Rocky TD, with 2.5 mandrel bend exhaust, one muffler then no muffler. Sounded nice, and was well noticed improvement, both in go and economy. Boost came on earlier, and i had to wind my bleed valve back a bit as the free's up exhaust allowed more top end boost. Was well worth it. Even if its press bend, a good 2.5 inch exhaust with low restiction muffler will be better than the factory item in terms of power and response. Just noisier. Also with a custom exhaust you can get is mounted how you like. My exhaust on my zook now is well tucked up, saving hangups, and the repair bill. 3inch dump pipe (mandrel bend) will allow the exhaust to exit the turbo cleaner with less turbulance As gass cools its volume contract ( remember that hot gass expand, cold gas contract) so a 2.5 after teh dump pipe section will be fine. I have driven a rodeo with this setup, and compared to the standard rodeo's i have driven, it was a noticable improvement. The sound was pretty cool too, nice turbo whistle and good note, without being way over the top. This vehicle just had a single straight through muffler (forgot the brand and model).

Layto....

Hava,
When you get your exhaust, make the section that runs under the gearbox removable ie a flange at the dump pipe and an extra flange somewhere past the gearbox.
You or the next poor bugger who does your clutch will love you for it.

lay80n wrote:Have a look for sure. The pipe size has little effect on the volume of noise (dB reading). This noise is level is mostly controled bythe muffler. Basically go for the least resistance. I had a Rocky TD, with 2.5 mandrel bend exhaust, one muffler then no muffler. Sounded nice, and was well noticed improvement, both in go and economy. Boost came on earlier, and i had to wind my bleed valve back a bit as the free's up exhaust allowed more top end boost. Was well worth it. Even if its press bend, a good 2.5 inch exhaust with low restiction muffler will be better than the factory item in terms of power and response. Just noisier. Also with a custom exhaust you can get is mounted how you like. My exhaust on my zook now is well tucked up, saving hangups, and the repair bill. 3inch dump pipe (mandrel bend) will allow the exhaust to exit the turbo cleaner with less turbulance As gass cools its volume contract ( remember that hot gass expand, cold gas contract) so a 2.5 after teh dump pipe section will be fine. I have driven a rodeo with this setup, and compared to the standard rodeo's i have driven, it was a noticable improvement. The sound was pretty cool too, nice turbo whistle and good note, without being way over the top. This vehicle just had a single straight through muffler (forgot the brand and model).

Layto....

nice stuff there Layto, cheers

Guzzi wrote:Hava,
When you get your exhaust, make the section that runs under the gearbox removable ie a flange at the dump pipe and an extra flange somewhere past the gearbox.
You or the next poor bugger who does your clutch will love you for it.

Guzzi, that is something i didn't think of must be one of the top tips ever given i think

My funds are limited, so no IC or exhaust just yet, but i got a worthwile power increase by upping boost a bit (11psi, up fron a low 6) and adjusting fuel up a bit. Total cost - $0.00

Pulls better now with the 31's than did with std tyres, no differance to fuel ecomomy if you keep your foot of the floor.

184K aint bad, my '99 Rodeo just clocked 260k and still goin strong.

ricky1970 wrote:My funds are limited, so no IC or exhaust just yet, but i got a worthwile power increase by upping boost a bit (11psi, up fron a low 6) and adjusting fuel up a bit. Total cost - $0.00

Pulls better now with the 31's than did with std tyres, no differance to fuel ecomomy if you keep your foot of the floor.

184K aint bad, my '99 Rodeo just clocked 260k and still goin strong.

ricky1970, care to explain how you went about these mods?

Boost is easy. When you fit your exhaust, also fit a boost gauge. See what beest your getting, as a bigger exhaust will allow the turbo to be more efficient due to reduced back pressure. If you want more, just fit a blood valve in the waste gate actuator line. Then gently adjust it till you get the desired boost. To increase fuel flow you can just tweak the pump.


Layto....

lay80n wrote:Boost is easy. When you fit your exhaust, also fit a boost gauge. See what beest your getting, as a bigger exhaust will allow the turbo to be more efficient due to reduced back pressure. If you want more, just fit a blood valve in the waste gate actuator line. Then gently adjust it till you get the desired boost. To increase fuel flow you can just tweak the pump.


Layto....

Thanks Layto,

you guys here are great

unfortunately have had to put the purchase off for a bit as my work situation is a bit uncertain; possible till end of the month

Cheers
Peter

Havabigjuan wrote:

ricky1970 wrote:My funds are limited, so no IC or exhaust just yet, but i got a worthwile power increase by upping boost a bit (11psi, up fron a low 6) and adjusting fuel up a bit. Total cost - $0.00

Pulls better now with the 31's than did with std tyres, no differance to fuel ecomomy if you keep your foot of the floor.

184K aint bad, my '99 Rodeo just clocked 260k and still goin strong.

ricky1970, care to explain how you went about these mods?

Made a 'tee' to go into hose short hose between wastegate actuator and inlet manifold of turbo. There is a restrictor in the manifold side of the tee, 2mm hole from memory. On the tee there is a needle valve, open at the end. To raise boost pressure you open needle valve, which gives a (false) lower pressure at the wastgate so it stays shut and raises boost pressure.
For the fuel increase, remove tin cover on adjusting screw at back of pump, adjust in very small incriments (1/8 turn at a time), test drive and adjust as necessary. Mine was turned up approx 1/2 turn in, with just a hind of black smoke at full load/throttle. If you get lots of black smoke you have gone to far (overfueling).

ricky1970 wrote:

Havabigjuan wrote:

ricky1970 wrote:My funds are limited, so no IC or exhaust just yet, but i got a worthwile power increase by upping boost a bit (11psi, up fron a low 6) and adjusting fuel up a bit. Total cost - $0.00

Pulls better now with the 31's than did with std tyres, no differance to fuel ecomomy if you keep your foot of the floor.

184K aint bad, my '99 Rodeo just clocked 260k and still goin strong.

ricky1970, care to explain how you went about these mods?

Made a 'tee' to go into hose short hose between wastegate actuator and inlet manifold of turbo. There is a restrictor in the manifold side of the tee, 2mm hole from memory. On the tee there is a needle valve, open at the end. To raise boost pressure you open needle valve, which gives a (false) lower pressure at the wastgate so it stays shut and raises boost pressure.
For the fuel increase, remove tin cover on adjusting screw at back of pump, adjust in very small incriments (1/8 turn at a time), test drive and adjust as necessary. Mine was turned up approx 1/2 turn in, with just a hind of black smoke at full load/throttle. If you get lots of black smoke you have gone to far (overfueling).

thankyou kind sir, trying to gather as much info as possible...

Keep an eye on the exhaust gas temp. if you up boost and fuel. Best to tune with a Pyro rather then guessing fuel settings.

Remember that diesels overheat when run rich, as opposed to petrol that overheats when it gets lean. A DAZZ said, best to do it properly with a pyro, save an expensive ooops.

Layto....

cheers, again thanks for the replies guys

unfortunately my work situation is gay and still up in the air

purchase won't be made until i know what is going on, don't think it would be fair to the family to spend money then possible lose my job, even though it would be with a separation package

hopefully this shit gets sorted soon as is starting to stress me & the wife out...

AND I WANT MY TD RODEO DAMNIT!