Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The drive pinion seal has gone on my 98 Rodeo rear diff and leaks.
I bought the new seal but when removed the flange the drive pinion shaft was as loose as buggery and flopped around in the casing as if the bearings are buggered.

Is this normal when the pinion flange is removed. The punch marks on the nut to lock it looked factory original so I gather its never been touched since it left the factory.
Once I "opened" the punch lock marks I discovered that the nut was not very tight at all.
I see in the manual that the torque setting for the nut is around 200ft.lb so would this indicate stuffed bearings and/or collapsable spacer?

Anyway I didnt proceed with replacing the seal just in case its the bearings etc. too and would mean getting another new seal again.

I put the flange back on and when I torqued up the lock nut it tightened further than the original locked position so I just locked it there.

When it was all back together nothing was loose except for the usual bit of backlash (free play) in the diff.
It drives normal and makes no noise so what gives with the floppy drive pinion shaft when the flange is removed?
I dont want to go on a long trip or off road until I find out whether or not the bearings are stuffed.

cheers, sudso

This might help
http://clubisuzu.proboards29.com/index. ... 1138342368

pig75 wrote:This might help
http://clubisuzu.proboards29.com/index. ... 1138342368

Thanks pig75. Thats link pretty much says what the manual does.

In the manual it says to torque up the lock nut to 245.3 to 294.3 Nm then the next step says to measure the bearing pre-load using a dial gauge torque wrench: starting torque is 0.6 to 1.1 Nm.
This means the torque required to turn the pinion shaft after the lock nut is torqued up, should be between 0.6 and 1.1 Nm. But this is with the diff centre out of the vehicle and crown wheel and cage assembly removed according to the manual.
If the pinion shaft turns with less torque than stated then the lock nut has to be tightened until it requires the correct torque to turn it.

My problem is that I want to get the correct torque on the lock nut without having to remove and dismantle the diff. I would have to take it to a diff specialist. ($$$ )
So I rang one today and he said just tighten the the lock nut so you can still turn the wheels freely by turning the pinion flange by hand. If the nut is too tight you will feel it bind in the bearings and it will be hard to turn.

I'm thinking it might be better to get the local Holden Dealer to replace the seal and pay a few bucks for the 30 odd minute labor, then if it stuffs up it's thier fault .

Whaddyas reckon?

Chances are the holden dealer will just mark the nut and shaft, then count the number of turns off, and then re-fit it the same amount of turns and re-align the marks.


Layto....

lay80n wrote:Chances are the holden dealer will just mark the nut and shaft, then count the number of turns off, and then re-fit it the same amount of turns and re-align the marks.


Layto....

Are you speaking from experience?

Oh well, if that is appropriate I might as well do it myself.

sudso wrote:

lay80n wrote:Chances are the holden dealer will just mark the nut and shaft, then count the number of turns off, and then re-fit it the same amount of turns and re-align the marks.


Layto....

Are you speaking from experience?

Oh well, if that is appropriate I might as well do it myself.

I do my diffs this way when i have to replace pinion seals, Just mark them out and then count the turns off. BUT - I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THIS . I tend to break diffs quicker than i can let them wear out anyway.

Layto....

I do my diffs this way when i have to replace pinion seals, Just mark them out and then count the turns off. BUT - I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THIS . I tend to break diffs quicker than i can let them wear out anyway.

Layto....

"and now for the disclaimer"

cheers