Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well I was researching transmission plates, adapters, converting bell housings etc. to adapt the Daihatsu 1.6L to the Toyota 5 speed and xfer case. I have gathered some information but.....

I found and made a deal on a 2.7L 3RZfe 150 hp 4 cylinder Toyota Taco engine, computer, engine harness, body harness, bell housing, clutch assembly, engine mounts, xfer case mounts, shifters for my tranny and xfer case and a rear CV jointed drive shaft (I think that's it) for $1300.00. The 3RZfe bell housing will bolt up to my Toyota W56 five speed and gear driven transfer case. I have a Toyota CV joint front drive shaft. I will have to fab up a cross member and have some drive shaft work done. The only major problem I see is that the exhaust exits on the right so a cross over will be needed. Also the clutch lever is on the left side...and adapting the body harness to the US Rocky.

The 2RZfe and the newer 3RZfe 2.7L is what replaced the 22R series Toyota engines. This will be a BIG boost in power but still have good fuel economy. I would think that with extractors and a K&N it could easily push 175hp. There are a lot of performance parts for this engine including turbos, cams, chips etc.

I am a little excited but it will be a major undertaking just like the SAS. I'll have to put off the 5.0 gears for the xfer case for a while as I sort out all of the details for the "heart transplant"...I haven't even got my snorkle mounted yet.

I'm just dreaming at the moment but the deal is as good as done and I thought that I would throw it out to the list. My Daihatsu engine is still in excellent condition but I wanted to eventually go all Toyota running gear...happening sooner than I thought.

Sounds good Kent, 112kW is a good increase from 70. It sounds like the same engine as used in the Hilux's over here (?).

Any idea how much heavier the engine is?

It'll be a big project. How do you go over there with getting engine conversions approved? Some of the pics I've seen from the States of 4WD's with wheels and tyres hanging way out past the guards makes me think it won't be too hard for you!?

yeah same motor as in the 2.7 hilux's

David,

The law states that you have to put in the same year or newer engine. If it is a fuel injected engine you have to run fuel injection. As long as it passes the exhaust emissions test it is OK. California has stricter laws on smog and tyres sticking out and I am not sure about the other states. In Colorado if you can build it with lights and a windshield (or glasses/ goggles...eye protection) you can drive it on the road. I believe that even the 4X4 Sniper tube buggy can be leagaly driven on the road and it doesn't have any fenders. I have seen dune buggy/ sand rails on the road and they don't have a body, fenders or a windshield.

I don't know what the weight of the 2.7 is. I talked to the guy that swaped it out for the V-6. He said it is a big engine. I have an electric fan on the front of the radiator so hopefully it will fit in OK. The actual install will be a ways off as I want to put in a new timing chain (non interference engine), new seals for the tranny and transmission etc...save up some more money

Going to be awesome when it's done mate. So I take it the adapter for the 1.6L was a no goer?

So I take it the adapter for the 1.6L was a no goer?

Murray,

I will post what information I have this weekend as I am at work right now on lunch. I think that something will work but I found a good deal on the engine and parts so I am going that way.

Murray,

It's still the weekend here but it's tomorrow there...living in the past. Here is about the extent of my research for the adapter plate. As you can see the Feroza and Surf? bell housings are quite different.

Drawings of the bell housings

When I thought of this I was planning on using one inch thick aluminum for the plate. Similar to the Samauri Toyota adapter which I suppose is a transfer case adapter.

The problem that still plagued me is this...the difference in the length of the pilot shafts on the transmissions. Plus the adapter plate would move the pilot shaft even farther away from the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. I thought of maybe usnig a pilot shaft adapter that would move the pilot shaft bearing farther out but I think that this would interfere with the clutch plate flywheel contact.

I thought of recessing the plate on one side so that it would inset into the
engine by 1/2". This may work with some metal fly cut off of the Toyota bell housing.

I then thought of using 3/8" steel plate for the adapter. but there are very few holes that line up with the 1.6 engine and the Toyota bell housing. Next thought was to make an adapter of 1/2" aluminum and cutting off the front of the Toyota bell housing and welding the plate on.

Another shot

Next thought was that I have a full time Feroza transmission and transfer case and maybe I could cut the front of the bell housing off of both transmissions and weld the Feroza cut off to the Toyota bell housing. similar to this:

more shots

I had heard that the welding crystalizes the surrounding metal and makes it more brittle. I went to the local welding shop and we bandsawed an aluminum casting in two. I beveled the edges of the casting on a belt sander to get a nice "V" channel for the welding. Using a spool gun he welded the two halves back together. I put the casting in a vise and taking a 5lb. sledge proceeded to try and break the weld. It didn't break and the surrounding metal help up also.

I decided that this would be the easiest way to go BUT...the Feroza cut off of the bellhousing would have to be cut almost perfectly straight as well as the cut on the Toyota bell housing. Enough metal would have to be removed from the Toyota bell housing for the pilot shaft to engage the pilot shaft bearing. The Feroza cut off could then be bolted to the engine, the pilot shaft of the Toyota transmission inserted into the pilot bearing of the Feroza engine, the Toyota transmission lined up perfectly level and centered then tack welded. The whole assembly could be removed and the rest of the welding completed.

A Toyota clutch plate and release bearing would have to be installed. A new cross member fabricated also. The Feroza mounts to the cross member at the transmission and the Toyota mounts at the transfer case. So you would need the Toyota transfer case mount for your new cross member. Then would come the drive shafts. The flanges on the Toyota drive shafts are exactly the same as the Feroza ones so there is no problem with the U joints or flanges. I would go with a CV jointed Toyota drive shaft on the front and maybe on the rear also (depends on whether you want to do a SAS or not in the future). The Feroza shafts would probably work after they were modified for length and balanced. I am not sure about the speedo cable, clutch cable, backup light sensor etc.etc.

If all of this worked out you could later put in a 22RE by installing a stock Toyota bell housing and moving the cross member/ mount a little. The W56 Toyota transmission that I have has the removable bell housing and the gear driven transfer case. The reason that I specifically searched for the gear driven transfer case is that it is much stronger that a chain drive and you can put in the 4.7-5.0 gears in it.

I am sure that I am leaving out some thoughts and piccies that I have collected. I never consulted with an expert on this so maybe there is an easier way. I am sorry Murray that my idea of a CNC'ed plate and pilot bearing adapter wouldn't just bolt in. I hope that it might give others some ideas though. I am still at this time going to pursue the engine, transmission/ transfer case swap.

Not that very many give a truckload of excrement or even one fece but I got my engine today.

Any idea how much heavier the engine is?

David,

Three guys over six feet tall (I'm 6'4") could barely lift it into the back of the truck (US Rocky). I would suspect it weighs 350lbs +. The rear springs have a slight negative arch to them. I am not sure how I am going to get it out...details, details. I only had one tie down and the engine would shift so the truck was rocking back and forth around corners with bumps at 120kph for seventy miles...scared the heck out of me a few times

I found out that I have a G52 or G54 Toyota 5 speed and not the W56 five speed that I thought that I had. I will have to get flamed real bad on the Pirate BB to verify this. So aparently the 3RZ will bolt up to the G series as well as the W series Toyota transmissions. The only difference is the side that the clutch lever is on.

It is going to take some time to get the rest of the parts together for the swap. I am making progress

Just a comparison of the 3RZ bell housing and the G52(?) The 3RZ is the one on the right.

I have been hanging around the Pirate BBS and picked up one of these on the for sale listings. It's one step further for the engine swap:

"I have a marlin dualcase setup. It is all 21 spline and brandnew, never ran offroad. It was put in the truck and then the guy went to D60's and so we yanked it and put dualcases with a D300.

It is complete with:
reduction box
adapter MC07
second case with 4.7:1 part#470-k
front case is forward shifting
shifters
speedo extension

Again this has never been offroad and only driven around the shop."

This is overkill at 240:1 crawl ratio...a little over 1/4mph at 800rpm...about 26 feet per minute. It has 20 forward gears and 4 reverse gears. Plus you can run 2WD low.

Broke again and saving for the other parts for the engine swap.

I too have thought of dual t-cases....BUT................







rear tailshaft a little bit TOO short and it would be at a ridiculous angle !!!

It would work if you could mount your rear axle back a few inches though

Besty,

I have thought long and hard about the rear drive shaft. A stock rear propeller shaft (that's what the service manual call them) is 977mm 38.464" total length. From the center of the U joint to center of U joint is 784mm 30.866". With the axle swap and spring over in the rear I had to put in a three inch+ spacer. This puts it at almost 34". The Dual cases add 6.5 inches to the front drive shaft and minus 6.5 inches for the rear drive shaft. That would leave me with a 27.5"...maybe 28" rear drive shaft. When the new spring perches were welded on the axle the pinion angle was rotated about 5 degrees up to point towards the transfer case. I think that with a CV jointed drive shaft that this would work...might have to add a 1-2 degree shim between the springs. You can also redrill your spring perch's back 1 1/2" for the center pin. I have read that this is a common way of moving an axle forwards or backwards. The 27.5" + 1.5" would put you back close to the stock length and with a double Cardan/ CV joint there shouldn't be any vibrations. Of course this is assuming that the 3rz, toyota tranny and transfer case mount in approximately the same position as the Daihatsu stuff. Will have to see. The stock front drive shaft is only 451mm or 17.756" from U joint to U joint.

I saw a TJ with an Atlas II the other day and it had only a 24" rear CV jointed drive shaft.

I noticed in your build up that they did rotate your pinion but the adapter bell housing looks like it might be longer than the Toyota G/W series.

There are high angle drive shaft makers:
http://www.highangledriveline.prodigybiz.com
They make an 80 degree CV joint. Imagine the angle on the FJ40 below.

another explanation from High Angle Driveline.

I would imagine that there is someone in OZ that does the same kind of work.