Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ive been trying to bleed the brakes after replacing the M/C . I tried the old, put a hose on the end and pump a shit load of fluid through to get the air out, Then i tried pumping up the breaks and then cracking them.

Didnt seem to work all that well, and have tried it about 3 times now. and are still almost undrivable.

AM i missing something or is this patrol just a PITA .

Thanks

When you say put a hose on , does this mean you placed a hose on the nipple and had the hose in a bottle with the end submerged in fluid ?
And you leave the hose connected when you bleed them ?

Good Luck !!

Oh if it was the M/C you could crack the lines and bleed as you would the niples at the cylinder as well , then do the nipples .

bled the proportioning valve above the rear diff?

Daisy wrote:bled the proportioning valve above the rear diff?

yeah did that one as well.

Thanks

Dozoor wrote:When you say put a hose on , does this mean you placed a hose on the nipple and had the hose in a bottle with the end submerged in fluid ?
And you leave the hose connected when you bleed them ?

Good Luck !!

Oh if it was the M/C you could crack the lines and bleed as you would the niples at the cylinder as well , then do the nipples .

yeah i cracked the M/C lines first , and i do leave the hose end in fliyud.

I remember when i did my other patrol it took a few days to get right.

I guess its gunna take the same hassle this time

Thanks guys

I could be wrong but it sounds to me there is a slight leak somewhere...because if you cant build up the pressure to bleed them, then to me the pressure is escaping somwhere...




I could be wrong though.

I remember a thread on this probly on patrol section - had heaps of helpful info - search?

You did follow the principle of bleeding furthest away to closest? (passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front)

bleed the master cylinder first. pull off the lines and use your finger to block the ports. get someone to do the pedal for you. once the air is out of the m/c reconnect the lines and as stated above start at the furthest most point away, l/h/r, r/h/r, l/h/f,/r/h/f.

also have you adjusted the m/c gap?

good luck

, Its all good. I decided to check the adjustment of the rear brake drums, and waddya know . The pads are brand new and they needed about 12 turns of the adjuster to bring them good again.

maybe the M/C was still good, at least i know its all done and should last for years.

Thanks guys

pongo wrote: , Its all good. I decided to check the adjustment of the rear brake drums, and waddya know . The pads are brand new and they needed about 12 turns of the adjuster to bring them good again.

maybe the M/C was still good, at least i know its all done and should last for years.

Thanks guys

Done that before
was about to suggest it