Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Have I done it Correctly I hope so

I needed to pull the whole assembly of to get on the new knuckle

The rubber seel was good and wheel bearings were or okay as well as having no water or mud in there so I just put in new Kingpin bearings with the new knuckle and put it all back together, it doesnt seem to need a wheel allignment but I will get it out for one just in case.

I found it best to disconnect the steering links first as they knuckle was mounted and could be kept still



try to remember how it all goes back together

How much lift do you have and how much has it improved the steering?

Bump steer was pretty bad when going over speed bumps or changing gear would cause it to steer one way, that has been eliminated the steering is alot easier, the lift is more spring over the springs are fairly standard but this was required as part of getting registration in the NT.

do you have a pic of how the high steer arm is connected to the ball joint?
im not sure if thats what its called...

Is that the snake racing Knuckle??

Troll, the ball joint (drag link end) just screws into the steering arm on the knuckle. Like the standard one, but the arm is raised to allow it to clear the leaf and keep the draglink fairly parallell to the ground. This helps avoid nasty bumpsteer, as well as provide clearence for the steering and springs.

Layto....

It is the Snake Racing one, I think the actual link is of great construction but the actual arm on the knuckle that puts it above the spring in the picture is machined on a weird angle not flat and i dont know why. Only thing I can think of is if that side is on down travel as it would fix the angle the joint is on but on up travel it gets worse....? Any ideas on this one guys...?

The only other pic i would have is where it connects to the pitman arm which is coming of the Power steering box from a Vitara. Just on another note I added in a little extra block into the bump stop on this side as to make sure that the arm is not bent on full up travel where it could possibly hit the chassis. Maybe I need more lift, or I leave the pins out on the back to let the eleptic rear to more travelling than the front. I twisted it up on a rock to see how close the arm comes to the chassis and it just clears buy about 5mm with the rubber stopper squashed at max.

why did you sell your orange one in favour of the hardtop?

Being at Uni I dont have much time to get the Orange one finished and on the road and engineered, I was in the market for something that was more secure for travel and uni and the white one came along with that and most of the work done so I got it. Otherwise I would have kept it because I had allready spent alot of time on it.

Hard top also has Crawler gears and locked front back and power steering.

The Hard top is just in need of some good seats and a new paint job