Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hello all
im Adam.
i own an hj61 cruiser with a 2H and im less than impressed with the on-road performance... especially on highways...

i am currently in the process of gathering parts to turbo it...

my questions to you are as follows...:

1. where do people run the oil feed from??

2. what do people do for intercooling???

i have thought about moving the grill forwards and running a shorty front mount...
does anyone else have any suggestions.???

cheers

If you do a search for turbo 2h, you will find heaps of posts.

I used to own an turbo/intercooled hj60. It had a front mount intercooler.

Oil feed line ran from a t piece that was added to the oil pressure sender fitting.

Oil return ran from the turbo into the rear passenger side pushrod cover.

My old cruiser:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ight=carts

Hope that helps.

Aaron

thanks mate,
yer i did a search (several actualy)... but yer just wanted to clear them up.

i was thinking about the T piece as thats how i did my XF but i wanted to know if there was a better way...

so when you say pushrod cover what do you mean??? im lost and do you have pics???

yer i was just gunna space out the grill but i might just lose it all together...
looks like a 600X300 cooler... am i right??? got any close ups of the cooler piping>???

cheers

cheers

I'm gonna hijack the thread here :)

Carts,

I'm putting a turbo into my 60 and I'm curious, did you retain the original radiator and did you have any temp issues when you put the intercooler in front of it?

I picked up a donor today and it has an aftermarket radiator thats a bit fatter than my factory one, wondering why..

Churs!
Duncan

hijacked again sorry-

dibbz

Ive got carts' cooler and turbo setup in my cruiser- no cooling issues if your system is healthy to start with.

power and economy - yes it can happen.

http://www.4x4panama.com/foros/viewtopi ... sc&start=0

can someone supply some detailed info/pics of their front mount piping??? i wanna see how they go throught to the front mount itself in particular like battery relocation??? etc
cheers

I'm stuffed as to why ARB make you replace your air cleaner when you buy a turbo kit off them. The one I picked up has a donaldson style air cleaner where my aux battery is.



I'm intending to go over the top like this 12H-T to my factory air cleaner.



Dunc

im definately gonna run a front mount... i plan on about 10-11psi
im also gunna run a 3" exhaust ...
the turbo is also watercooled
the intercooler piping is gonna be the hardest bit i think... ive almost finished welding up my turbo manifold and im getting the oil and water lines day after tomorrow (with a bit of luck)
ill do a write up on the whole turbo setup when im finished...
cheers

so to everyone that is not running an intercooler... how much boost are you running???

i will be running a crossover pipe to the factory air cleaner as well
i am thinking 2" intercooler pipe will do ... Carts maybe you can tell me if 2" is enuff or not???
cheers

Engine manual says 12H-T is 5.5-7.3 psi if that helps...

I installed and tuned Cart's turbo and intercooler setup (twice - once for Carts, once for sixdeetoo).

intercooler piping: there is sufficient space under the battery/through the radiator support panel for 3" piping. 2.5" is adequate, 2" is getting a bit tight - the smaller your pipe, the more friction, resulitng in less power.

boost: on cart's truck we ran it at about 13psi, where it lived happily for over 20,000km. we did run it for a short while at somewhere around the 18psi mark with no ill effects, however this is not advisable.

air cleaner: use the factory air cleaner setup with a crossover pipe.

intercooler mounting: you don't need to move the griller or anything, you will need to remove the vertical bonnet catch/griller support and integrate it into the intercooler. use a nibbler or similar to cut through the radiator support panel for the plumbing, once you have established where the cooler will mount.

boost spiking: the 2H uses a throttle butterfly to control fuelling, and although it does not sut completely, with the mass of air in the intercooler we found that when the throttle was snapped shut at gear changes, boost was spiking to over 17psi momentarily. this was solved by fitment of a Blow Off Valve to the cold side of the intercooler, modified to take into account the much lower pressure differential available on a diesel to pull it open - we have to fit a much softer spring. with a little fiddling the boost spike went away. we used a plumb back blow off valve to maintain fording ability but that's not necessary if you never drive in deep water.

it's not boost that will kill a 2H, it's exhaust temperatures. you need to run it lean at high boost and be moderate about the exhaust temperatures - around 500C (550MAX), post turbo, will see it live a long and happy life. It is possible to achieve fantastic economy if you keep the boost low (11psi ish), with careful driving should have it under 10l/100km but chances are if you have the power you will use it!.

hope that helps some. Sixdeetoo's can answer any questions you have about driveability, economy and power.

cheers

DD

cheers
i was thinking of using a hole saw to cut thru the support... but i can get a couple of different tools if that doesnt work...
2 1/2" will be the go then...
i like the fuel economy figures...
i was planning on running a BOV anyway but its nice to know the other benifits it has ( other than reducing compressor surge)
i have already removed the bonnet catch support and grill
does anyone remember the thread size of the oil pressure sensor??? just asking coz i can go and get a T piece without removing it... lol im soo lazy
with Carts' setup he said he ran the oil return into the pushrod cover is this the long section that is removable just under the exhaust flange???
hard to explain ... on the block under the exhaust there is two seperate covers???
cheers

dybes wrote:cheers

i was planning on running a BOV anyway but its nice to know the other benifits it has ( other than reducing compressor surge)

that's pretty much the only benefit. the motor doesn't care whether the boost spikes momentarily on throttle lift since there's no fuel so pressures are low anyway - it is to protect the turbo.

i have already removed the bonnet catch support and grill
does anyone remember the thread size of the oil pressure sensor???

it is 1/8" NPT or possibly BSP, the two are so close you can jame one into the other, use brass fittings and it won't damage your block. use teflon paste rather than tape.

with Carts' setup he said he ran the oil return into the pushrod cover is this the long section that is removable just under the exhaust flange???

yes that's it. 8 bolts each from memory. remove one, weld a bit of pipe into it (at least 3/4" or 19mm) so that it points roughly towards where the turbo oil drain is.

good luck!

thanks a lot guys looks like ive got some work to do this weekend...
cheers

Does anyone have an opinion on the safari (aps) vs. denco vs. axt vs. dynamic turbo kits?

Also, if i were to bodge something together myself, what kind/specs should i be looking for in a turbo (max 8-10psi)? If i went to a truck wreckers and picked up something off any ~4L diesel, would it do the trick? Would any turbo off a diesel be more suitable than something the same size off a petrol?
(for a 2h)

-Stu

Sold the engine from the donor today so things are rolling again! :)

This url http://www.mtqes.com.au/Landcruiser2H.htm says they use a TD05H, I saw one on ebay finsh this week http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TD05H-WRX-Turbo_ ... dZViewItem

I'd be keen to know how they go.

dibbz wrote:Sold the engine from the donor today so things are rolling again!

This url http://www.mtqes.com.au/Landcruiser2H.htm says they use a TD05H, I saw one on ebay finsh this week http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TD05H-WRX-Turbo_ ... dZViewItem

I'd be keen to know how they go.

From what i understand of mturbo model numbers, a TD05H off a WRX can be very different to a TD05H designed for a 2H.

Its important to look at how much the turbo flows in its origonal comfiguration, and ensure its suitable for your application.

a WRX is a 2.5Litre, and redlines at about 7000RPM. a 2H redlines at about 3250RPM and is a 4 Litre.

So yeh, one off a WRX should be a good match. However, MTQ may actually specify a different compressor/exhaust wheel configuration though, which will give different characteristics, when boost comes on etc.

It should come on boost sooner when strapped toa 2H than when strapped to a WRX engine as the amount of exhaust gas from a 2H at idle (650 RPM) will be roughly double that produced by the WRX at idle. (650 RPM).

In theory you should be able to get the data on what RPM the WRX comes on boost, and multiply the RPM by 5/8 (2.5/4) to approximate what will happen on a 2H. However, there are 1000 variables which will affect the actual RPM it comes on boost, and these will be only good for an approximation.

Mario wrote:http://www.4x4panama.com/foros/viewtopi ... sc&start=0

what sort of manifold is that? almost looks like an aftermarker but standard exhaust manifold.

Would it be possible to use some heavy wall mandrel bent pipe to bolt a turbo to the factory exhaust housing in the same fashion as the picture above? Could be simpler than making a new manifold (and cheaper than buying a turbo manifold).

YOud just need a 180 degree bend of some heavy wall exhaust pipe, might need to add some brackets for strength.

looks like its just a standard toyota manifold off an early 2H as the manifold on my 2H, and I assume all late ones, is a 2 piece model.

Would the standard manifold flow good enough to bolt a turbo to it?

The factory 12HT manifold looks very similar to the 2H manifold except the flange is centralised with the block, where the 2H is closer to the rear of the block. ALso looks like a 12HT manifold will bolt up to a 2H head, looks exactly the same bolt pattern, but then, i dont know where youd find a 12HT exhaust manifold without a motor attached.

any manifold will flow well enough for a turbo... it just wont be optimum...
the one i am welding up at the moment just uses 32mm steam pipe and a turbo flange... it could be way better but this way it is cheap , strong and it will work

i'm gonna have to make do with 2" piping for now as i cant get 3" in and a mate of mine has heaps of 2" mandrel bends so we are gonna use them...
other wise i havta buy pipe and i dont have the cash as yet...
i will fit it all and see how it goes if it needs the 2.5" then i will go and get it...
cheers

dibbz wrote:I'm stuffed as to why ARB make you replace your air cleaner when you buy a turbo kit off them. The one I picked up has a donaldson style air cleaner where my aux battery is.



I'm intending to go over the top like this 12H-T to my factory air cleaner.



Dunc

Just digging up an old thread for info.

My car has the ARB kit running the Donaldson air filter, would the Donaldson setup give superior filtration compared to a standard airbox? I was thinking about relocating the Donaldson to the drivers side so i can run a snorkel, and then mounting a water to air intercooler in the passenger side of the engine bay. It would however be simpler for me to just use a factory airbox instead of stuffing around remounting the Donaldson, i was just thinking that it might be a better filter. Thoughts?

I have the same ARB turbo setup on 2h, I changed mine back over to a stock aircleaner with crossover pipe for snorkle reasons also. I am assuming that the toyota air cleaner setup is as good as the donaldson.

Does everyone agree that the oil sender under the EDIC is a good place to tee off the oil feed line? Any better options? Is a restrictor required in the feed line to maintain normal oil pressure in the engine and correct flow rate/pressure to turbo? (BB Garrett GT2860RS)

What about water feed/return. Can i just tee them off the heater circuit? (i.e. parallel with the heater)


-Stu

i turbo my 2H not that long ago i'll try and give a quick run down on how i did the oil feed and return line.
oile feed line comes from oile sensor that is under the EDIC with t piece and goes upto turbo and oil return line is as someone else mentioned going to push rod cover on passenger side of motor.

dogbreath_48 wrote:Does everyone agree that the oil sender under the EDIC is a good place to tee off the oil feed line? Any better options? Is a restrictor required in the feed line to maintain normal oil pressure in the engine and correct flow rate/pressure to turbo? (BB Garrett GT2860RS)

What about water feed/return. Can i just tee them off the heater circuit? (i.e. parallel with the heater)


-Stu

Thanks for the info Nat84 - should be easy enough Anyone else keen to comment on the water feed situation especially?

Also, what max pre turbo EGT's should i be looking at?

-Stu