Page 1 of 1

Welded Diffs

Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:28 pm
by MY45
Ok i know that this has been done to death on the suzi section but................
I want to know what peolpe think about having a welded front in my FJ45. One of the major con's on the suzi topics was that they snap CV's alot but wouldn't this be the same as having an Arb locked offraod.

Give me any info

Cheers

Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:46 pm
by *BESTY*
I said 'Weld the front'

Reasons
    Less wear on tyres when driving to/from 4WDing site (unless its purely a trailer queen in which case you'd weld both)

    If driving between hard/difficult sections, just put the transfer in 2H and drive it ! = less wear on frontend drive components, no need for power steering when not on difficult section

Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:48 pm
by MY45
Steering isn't really a problem either as i have PS.

Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 11:05 pm
by Ferwoaza
I voted front, I like my welded front, it's my friend, nice welded front

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:04 am
by MY45
Ok, the next question is where do i weld ? ?

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:52 am
by 2car
MY45 wrote:Ok, the next question is where do i weld ? ?


I said rear. ~70% of traction comes from the rear wheels.

Weld the spider gears to the side gears at 8 points. Don't weld any gears to the diff case as those welds will pobably fail.

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 10:51 am
by Yarno
I'd say rear

Have a air locker in front and when its on its almost impossible to turn even with PS!!

And if your going up an off camber hill the front will slide down due to both wheels spinning

weld the rear

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 2:26 pm
by jessie928
weld the rear
although on road driving is compromised somewhat with a welded rear, with a welded front your offroad driving will be even more compromised not being able to unlock the front fiff and still have it in 4WD.

Jes

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 3:19 pm
by Robbo
Sorry but I vote niether. You will regret welding front when on a side slope. ARB air locks can't be beaten, but are expensive. Having mine wired so I can lock or unlock either has been F A B. :D

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 3:39 pm
by MY45
If i weld now when i get the air locker i can take out the welded because air lockers replace the whole centre dont they?

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 3:44 pm
by POS
MY45 wrote:If i weld now when i get the air locker i can take out the welded because air lockers replace the whole centre dont they?


Yes, Weld the rear!!!

Welding the front also puts huge strain on CV's!

Hell cheap and will suffice until you can afford a Air-locker!

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 3:52 pm
by MY45
Can someone run me through how to do it?

1) Remove diff oil

2) Remove rear diff plate

3) What Now :oops:

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:18 pm
by bigsteve
i say weld the rear, but what tyres are you running.

On standard 27's the welded rear is shocking, on my 32's its mildly eveident (Low speed turns in car parks)

I recently had gregs 34 inch swampers and couldn't even feel the locked rear.

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:23 pm
by RUFF
MY45 wrote:Can someone run me through how to do it?

1) Remove diff oil

2) Remove rear diff plate

3) What Now :oops:


Hang on.
Does your rear diff have a Tin cover bolted on the rear?

If so dont weld it. The axles are held in by 2 C lips inside the diff centre and if you weld it up you can not remove the axles. with this set up if you break a centre your axles will also fall out :shock:

Do yourself a favour and get a later model Full Float housing and axles.

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 11:24 pm
by MY45
No actually i have to remove the front cover and drive shaft....

Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 11:43 pm
by spazbot
are you doing the front diff i take it ?
have you got the wheels off and pulled the whole front diff down and got the cvs and axles out ?
then unbolt the drive shaft, and undo all the bolts around the 3rd member then you have to pull that out

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 12:07 am
by bogged
MY45 wrote:Can someone run me through how to do it?

1) Remove diff oil

2) Remove rear diff plate

3) What Now :oops:



just a friendly one, if your asking this, go see someone who know about this shiat... maybe give them the slab for doing it...

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 9:44 am
by MY45
Nahh, i'm only 18 and pulling apart shiat is half the fun :lol:

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:05 am
by MQ080
Front does reduce you ability to turn, however you can always unlock one hub... instant steering!

I'd still go rear... they do so much more

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:07 am
by MQ080
bogged wrote:
MY45 wrote:Can someone run me through how to do it?

1) Remove diff oil

2) Remove rear diff plate

3) What Now :oops:



just a friendly one, if your asking this, go see someone who know about this shiat... maybe give them the slab for doing it...


Bogged, how else do you learn?! Good on him for asking questions... I just hope you don't ask anything in the future cause i'll be saying "GO TO A MECHANIC AND PAY THEIR PRICE!" :D :D :D

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:53 pm
by Ferwoaza
More thoughts to stew on...

I still say go with welding the front.

The main reason I say this is when climbing, most of the time loss of traction comes from lifting a tyre...and when your climbing most of the time it's a front tyre you lift.

With the front welded, you'll still have 3 wheels providing traction, but with the back welded you'd only have 2....

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 4:53 pm
by -Mick-
Is anyone running with both ends welded who actually drives on the road? :?:

Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 12:14 am
by beebee
mj wrote:Is anyone running with both ends welded who actually drives on the road? :?:


I was until the rear diff shat itself. Have temporarilly installed a tightened LSD in the rear. Steering is a biatch in the front with the welded especially in tight rock crawling tracks. They're ok when there isn't much traction but on hard dirt or rock turning is FUN!

Will have hydro assist steering fitted soon to combat the negative effects.