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80 Series DIESEL Auxialiary Fuel Tank Probs
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 9:27 am
by highlift80
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 10:21 am
by Emo
Is it petrol or diesel? They have different systems.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 10:54 am
by highlift80
Its a diesel, I know on the petrol models the sub won't switch over until the main gets down to a certain level, diesels are supposed to switch over any time you push that button , so somethings a miss, todays my first day off in a few weeks so I'm checking fuses ,wiring, plugs etc see what i can find . I came down from Longreach to Cobar switcing on the Sub as required no probs did the switch over near Jerilderie and it stayed over on the Main tank..,
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:51 am
by Emo
highlift80 wrote:Its a diesel, I know on the petrol models the sub won't switch over until the main gets down to a certain level, diesels are supposed to switch over any time you push that button , so somethings a miss, todays my first day off in a few weeks so I'm checking fuses ,wiring, plugs etc see what i can find . I came down from Longreach to Cobar switcing on the Sub as required no probs did the switch over near Jerilderie and it stayed over on the Main tank..,
On the petrol, the subtank pumps into the main tank. If there is any room in the main tank, it will pump until full. I'd be checking fuses and wiring. As you say, the diesel swaps between tanks so something is wrong with the switching process.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 1:17 pm
by sniper
With the diesel it pumps it directly out of the sub to the motor(well mine does). No ideas what would cause this unless there is a fuse blown, loose wire or the pump shit itself.
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 1:59 pm
by dow50r
Get a friend under the car and above therear diff is the solenoids and valves, check they are clicling when sub is turned on and off, check fior broken wires from sticks.etc, check fuse...if all seems quiet
Andrew
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:04 pm
by BEU77y
I've got the same problem....
I have in the past removed the two solenoid valves and cleaned them out... fixed the problem for a few years.
The only problem with removing the valves is the idiot engineers turned what is effectively removing 4 x 6mm nuts, into 4 hours of fuel running down into your armpits and swearing.
It's not a fun job.
The main cause is the gradual build up of scum in the tanks. It gets stuck in the valves, and hey presto, they stop working. I've also heard that there are a few strainers in the tanks that gum up... but you have to remove the tanks to clean them. I've heard that these can actually affect the engine performance.
You can remove the hoses and blow air through the valves to clean them out. You have to turn the key on to get them to switch.
Some of the hoses will run fuel when not connected, so be ready to plug them.
I've asked my friendly Toyota spares bloke... who I'm on a first name basis with... and it's about $500 for two new valves...
I've tried teeing the lines together... removing the valves from the system, but the fuel just runs from the sub to the main, and then you get air... and the car stops with a cough and a splutter. Not good.
Try blowing the valves out
Have fun
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:53 pm
by highlift80
Thanx for the info I consulted the ol Gregorys and read up about the Solanoid valves and had a look at em saw what you meant about those little nuts and diesel runing down your arm when you disconect the hoses what a mongrel of a job. I will try giving em a blow out with the air gun I checked em they have power going to them so they may just be GUNGED up with crap, $500 for those valves geez they don't mind stinging ya do they.. Ohh and I will wear saftey glasses next time I go under might keep some of the hard baked red dirt from falling in my eyes again.
damn I hate that..
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 4:29 pm
by BEU77y
Go to your local carlovers and spend $5-$6 cleaning underneath before you start - or try goggles. I wear glasses anyway and still get crap in my eyes.