Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just finished scrubbing the interior floor on my patrol today and there's just a few patches of rust begining to form on the floor.

Was thinking the best way to fix it would be to get a wire brush on a drill to clear it all away, a quick layer of killrust then coat the whole floor in body deadner for that extra protection! anyone got suggestions thru experience on how to treat this?

Wanted to also replace the wolllen sorta underlay they put under the vinyl with a new layer of cheap carpet underlay for that extra comfort!

yeah wire brush on an angle grinder or drill

then get some kill rust from bunnings or where ever the best stuff i have found is the one that has a paint inbuilt in it so once it dries its will look black then yeah paint over it again with body deadner or something to give it that extra protection

but make sure u get all of it so wire brush a section i would say about 3 times the area and apply the kill rust to all of it

Heath

if it is scaly rust give a wire brush before using rust converter. If it is just a stained rust use rust converter without wire brushing as it need rust to react. Then use an epoxy enamel (killrust).

yeah i've heard of this rust converter and sound likes the goods cause it changes the ph level or something technical like that. but you need a certain amount of rust still present for you to use the rust converter

rust converter is bloody good stuff for surface rust...id give it a go if just minor

Josh n Kat wrote:yeah i've heard of this rust converter and sound likes the goods cause it changes the ph level or something technical like that. but you need a certain amount of rust still present for you to use the rust converter

All this means is that if there is no rust, there's nothing to convert. And if there is any rust, it converts it. It's just dilute phosphoric acid usually. It doesn't change the pH level exactly, it just reacts with the rust.

exactly. all rust should be converted before any other coats are applied, it is used on pylons , cranes and many other industrial purposes. I will be doing the chassis soon sand blasting followed by a coat or two of international 2 pac that i use on pylons which are submersed at high tide ....so i know it will work.

ah i see, well atleast i know the technical side of what it does.

What are the best steps to take to treat the rust correctly with it?

On my rigs I have used the wire brush on drill or grinder to get rid of it and then packed on stuff called ormonoid its cheap and messy but they use it on roofs it dries pretty hard and you can wash your rig out with a hose.

Am thinking of using that spray on ute liner for the new rig though.
I think carpets are for grandmothers

just brush it on (two in one converter) do not remove the rust first if it is very minor then leave overnight then coat in the desired finish.

Give Penetrol a go, this stuff works wonders.

It will neutralise the rust as well as leaving a protective coat on the metal that can be painted over.

Description
Penetrol is an air-drying, film forming, deeply penetrating mixture of natural oils. It does not contain linseed or fish oil, has a low odour and is non-toxic when dry. With a penetrating power 3 times that of water it goes deep into the substrate and forms a strong bond for subsequent topcoats. Penetrol also stops and prevents rust, corrosion and oxidisation. It can be used in confined and damp areas and reduces fire and fume hazards. Withstands temperatures of over 100°C.

http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol.htm

Light rust? Use something like Vavoline Tectyl 517 or 518.

The idea with rust prevention is similar to the fire triangle.

Oxidisable material -- > Oxygen = Corrosion

Automotive paint is more of a rust preventative than anything else (although I might add that Nissan have a bit to learn about paint qualities and type - esp. on the GQ's - 2 pack lasts so much longer than that garbage they put on it - but I digress!). The reason it works as a rust preventative is that it stops the oxygen from reaching the bare metal.

So, by adding something like Tectyl (or Lanotec or any equivalent oil/wax based product), you are penetrating the rust and sealing oxygen from it. The rust process then cannot continue.

The idea of a urethane coat is ok in principle, but the lack of wettability and potential for air pockets I can see could be a problem.

i've used some stuff from supacheap rust converter, only had time to do a small section before the sun went down but it did work quite well but i think i needed to leave it for longer.....

It recommends to leave it sit between 15 and 30 mins before wiping with a damp rag, think i only let it sit for a max of 15 mins..... So we'll try again on the weekend and give it a minimum of 30 mins to get right in there and convert that rust YEAH !!!!

i'll keep everyone posted

I used this product today called 212 metal cleaner made by lacnam it is the shit. cleaned the steel door frames at work to a nice shine

good thing you found that early - have a look at my re-build thread. Rusted floor that badly I could put my hand through the holes.