Damn BJ40 given my grief again. HELP PLEASE!

[Da Krusha]

G'day.
got a few troubles with my BJ.
1. Transfer case won't go from hi-4 back to hi-2.
2. Edic motor isn't activating when I hit the key. Can't find any blown fuses.
3. Wheels are scrubing in the the guards. How many blocks/bolts do I need for body lift, how do I fix steering, do I need caster correction?

Also, I'm looking for a new/decent/alright bonnet, bull bar (with mounts, not little nudge bar), roof rack and roll bar. If anyone got one laying around, please give me a yell.

Cheers

Brendo?!? [/i]

[MUSS]

answer to question 1: have you tried changin on the fly i dont meanat high speed try it at about 10 to 15km an hour as for the edic motor id tinker with the connections and then give it ago maybe there might be an in line fuse??? as for you tyres scrubbin on ya guards just find a 40 series lift kit and thro it on but id only go two inches for insurance reasons pm bj on roids about ya bonnet hes always got shit like that lying about in his room

[2car]

Ive got a bullbar you have for free if you come and get it. Taken off FJ40, so it should just bolt on.

[Slayer]

to go from high 4 back to hi 2 put it in reverse, go backwards just a few metres, then throw the clutch in, and while still rolling back slot it back into hi 2... should do the trick

[bj on roids]

G'day.
got a few troubles with my BJ.
1. Transfer case won't go from hi-4 back to hi-2.
2. Edic motor isn't activating when I hit the key. Can't find any blown fuses.
3. Wheels are scrubing in the the guards. How many blocks/bolts do I need for body lift, how do I fix steering, do I need caster correction?

Also, I'm looking for a new/decent/alright bonnet, bull bar (with mounts, not little nudge bar), roof rack and roll bar. If anyone got one laying around, please give me a yell.

Cheers

Brendo?!? [/i]

1. high 4 back to hi 2 put it in reverse, go backwards just a few metres, then slot it back into hi 2... should do the trick

2. edic motor dead, fit cable shutoff, or purchase new EDIC motor, $125 (2nd hand)

3. 6 for the body, then you need to sort out your apron hinge and the front guard mounts, and your steering box.

4. caster correction? NO need to fix for body lift... unless you are a crack smoker, the you can fix all you like!

[ORSM45]

i suggest 2 inchs maximum body lift as it requires no major mods, and if you are running the standard steering box you will have to make up a 1.5 inch spacer between the steering box and its mount, and you will need to go in the cab and lift the steering column 1 inch (i just used box tube roughly 1.5inch x 1inch and a u bolt from an exhaust mount. i crushed the box tube slightly creating a curved surface, so it sits in nicely.) raising the steering column works well with 45 utes, not being the smallest person in the world i dont have much legroom, specially with the massive bus steering wheel landcruisers came out with.

[Da Krusha]

G'day.
Don't understand what you mean by lift the steering column up. Lift the bit in the fire wall or where?

Also, If you lift the box, does that mean that the castor angles would be out of whack (i'm getting plates made up anyway, I'll just change the angle)

Cheers
BrEnDo?!?

[spazbot]

if your doing a body lift your not moving the diffs or changing angles so the castor will not be affected

[ORSM45]

what spaz said, and i mean lift your steering column up where it mounts to the dash

[ORSM45]

you can only lift the steering box 1.5 inches before it doesnt move properly, and if your doing 2 inch body lift you still need half an inch more, so you just increase the angle of the steering column, (or ya could just go 1.5 inch body lift) i went 2 inch coz i got 35s and want the guards as far away as possible. with that steering colum mount on the firewall, just put a bit of grease on the column to reduce friction.