Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i am about to body lift the bundy,

just wondering are all bolts the same size???

and any other tricks to it? ie redrill the radiator mounts?? fuel hose?

thanks!

don't do it, body lifts are gay.

if you really need to, yes I think all the bolts are the same (been a long time). go only as high as you need. if you stick to 1" you probably won't have to move/extend very much. for 2" you will have to start looking at brake and fuel lines and probably have to drop the radiator.

Dont do it full stop...

You'll be making your vehicle top heavy and susceptable to turning over.
Do a suspension lift. You can easily have a 2" lift just by inserting blocks at the top of your coil spring.

If you can get a hold of some standard height 80 series front springs (4 off) this will give you 4 inches of lift.

Body lift is easy as winkin, either use 50mm X 50mm ali blocks or just get some poly ones. poly ones are better less vibration! Brake lines dont need extending only your fuel line and return fuel line cost ya $12.

All ya body bolts need to be extenede by 2inch! cause your lifting ya body 2 inch.

Your front body blocks are the only ones that cant be 50mm wide need to be about 30mm and the bolts are also longer!!.

Steering stretches out fine.

Yeah its easy as mate. did my body lift ages ago cost me $150 but then took it out cause got rid of big tyres.

Drill some new holes in body 2 inch lower. How hard

gotoy wrote:Dont do it full stop...

You'll be making your vehicle top heavy and susceptable to turning over.
Do a suspension lift. You can easily have a 2" lift just by inserting blocks at the top of your coil spring.

Right.... so instead of just lifting the body 2", which apparently makes it "susceptable to turning over" you should do a 2" suspension lift which lifts ALL of the sprung mass 2", including the body AND the chassis AND the engine/driveline..... because that would make it so much less susceptable to turning over?!

smithie wrote:

gotoy wrote:Dont do it full stop...

You'll be making your vehicle top heavy and susceptable to turning over.
Do a suspension lift. You can easily have a 2" lift just by inserting blocks at the top of your coil spring.

Right.... so instead of just lifting the body 2", which apparently makes it "susceptable to turning over" you should do a 2" suspension lift which lifts ALL of the sprung mass 2", including the body AND the chassis AND the engine/driveline..... because that would make it so much less susceptable to turning over?!

Precisely.
The max safe lift for a bundy is about 4". So I am advising this dude to do the suspension lift rather than the body lift. He can get 4" by using 80 series coils.

My point is that you've told him not to do a 2" body lift on the grounds that it will make it "top heavy and susceptable to turning over", whereas you are quite happy to advise him to do a 2" suspension lift which will make the car MORE susceptable to turning over.

I was just pointing out that your reasoning was incorrect so as to avoid someone else on this forum jumping to the conclusion that body lifts make you tip over, because they dont. Raising the COG and not driving within your new vehicles physical parameters makes you tip over.

If you need more travel/articulation.... then do a suspension lift
If you need more tyre clearance and dont want to cut the body/move axles.. then do a body lift
BOTH will raise the COG, however a suspension lift will raise it by MORE.

Big Bundy:
My 1990 SWB landcruiser had different bolts in the two front positions (longer). I know that the Landcruiser and Bundy bodies are different in the front end but it may be worth double checking.


Cheers - Dan
1990 PZJ70 5 cylinder diesel SWB Landcruiser 2" suspension lift with removed load bearing leaves, front axle moved forward 30mm to avoid scrubbing tyres on body, 2" extended shackles providing approx 1" additional lift and added articulation, 2" body lift, running 35" Pro Comp Mud Terrains, removed swaybars.
Awesome lift, Awesome travel/articulation although I still lift a tyre on difficult stuff, never rolled but HAVE had to change driving style because ANY lift makes a vehicle MORE susceptable to rolling.

smithie wrote:My point is that you've told him not to do a 2" body lift on the grounds that it will make it "top heavy and susceptable to turning over", whereas you are quite happy to advise him to do a 2" suspension lift which will make the car MORE susceptable to turning over.

I was just pointing out that your reasoning was incorrect so as to avoid someone else on this forum jumping to the conclusion that body lifts make you tip over, because they dont. Raising the COG and not driving within your new vehicles physical parameters makes you tip over.

If you need more travel/articulation.... then do a suspension lift
If you need more tyre clearance and dont want to cut the body/move axles.. then do a body lift
BOTH will raise the COG, however a suspension lift will raise it by MORE.

Big Bundy:
My 1990 SWB landcruiser had different bolts in the two front positions (longer). I know that the Landcruiser and Bundy bodies are different in the front end but it may be worth double checking.


Cheers - Dan
1990 PZJ70 5 cylinder diesel SWB Landcruiser 2" suspension lift with removed load bearing leaves, front axle moved forward 30mm to avoid scrubbing tyres on body, 2" extended shackles providing approx 1" additional lift and added articulation, 2" body lift, running 35" Pro Comp Mud Terrains, removed swaybars.
Awesome lift, Awesome travel/articulation although I still lift a tyre on difficult stuff, never rolled but HAVE had to change driving style because ANY lift makes a vehicle MORE susceptable to rolling.

You failed to mention the fact that by doing a body lift one will also have to extend the steering...a messy and horrid job that often cannot be done correctly.
You are correct about the cog.
Also why does this guy want to do a body lift?

"If you need more tyre clearance and dont want to cut the body/move axles.. then do a body lift"
Don't have to cut the body or move axles, or do a body lift. Just a simple suspension lift.

Don't have to cut the body or move axles, or do a body lift. Just a simple suspension lift.

Right..so if I do a simple 2" suspension lift then I can run 35's on a bundy with no scrubbing can I??
It all depends on your individual application eg: what tyre/suspension combo your running in what vehicle, hence why I said "If you need more tyre clearance.."
I chose to move axles and do a body lift because I wanted to keep my COG as low as possible and therefore only did the min. suspension lift that I felt I needed.

You failed to mention the fact that by doing a body lift one will also have to extend the steering, a messy and horrid job that often cannot be done correctly.

I didnt fail to mention it, I had no intention of mentioning it as its not relevant to the point that I was making, but seeing as though you brought it up.....
based on that logic then you wouldn't recommend a 'simple' 4" suspension lift using 80 series coils either as to do it 'correctly' you would have to change the castor angle and possibly extend brake lines as well.

Its not that any of these mods CANNOT be done correctly, its that PEOPLE often CHOOSE not to do them correctly.

smithie wrote:

Don't have to cut the body or move axles, or do a body lift. Just a simple suspension lift.

Right..so if I do a simple 2" suspension lift then I can run 35's on a bundy with no scrubbing can I??
It all depends on your individual application eg: what tyre/suspension combo your running in what vehicle, hence why I said "If you need more tyre clearance.."
I chose to move axles and do a body lift because I wanted to keep my COG as low as possible and therefore only did the min. suspension lift that I felt I needed.

You failed to mention the fact that by doing a body lift one will also have to extend the steering, a messy and horrid job that often cannot be done correctly.

I didnt fail to mention it, I had no intention of mentioning it as its not relevant to the point that I was making, but seeing as though you brought it up.....
based on that logic then you wouldn't recommend a 'simple' 4" suspension lift using 80 series coils either as to do it 'correctly' you would have to change the castor angle and possibly extend brake lines as well.

Its not that any of these mods CANNOT be done correctly, its that PEOPLE often CHOOSE not to do them correctly.

For 35" tyres need 3" suspension lift.
Well I dunno if you have done it the hard way by moviing yours axles to maintain a low COG and doing a body lift. I just lifted my suspension.
Moving the axles? Is there really a need?
Yes the brake lines have to be extended.
Castor bushes? Hard to find for a bundy. The later models with 80series arms are ok.

80 series castor bushes wil fit if you keep the outside rings of your original leading arm bushes - press the old bushes out, burn or otherwise remove the rubber, and press the castor bushes into the outer rings of the bundera bushes. I have had bundys with 4" suspension lift, no castor correction, and it drives ok. drive better with castor correction though.

steering: there is a VERY LONG slip joint in the bundy steering column and it it at sunch an angle that with 2" body lift, the steering column will exten about 10 - 15mm max. it really is not an issue.

I still advise against a bodylift on a bundy. 33's will see you go everywhere a bigger truck on 36's can go, and you can fit 33's easily with 2" lift. 4" lift will fit 35's but they will scrub, and 12.5" wide tyre will scrub the inside of the guards in the rear, and they will probably scrub the back of the front wheel wells on full lock with some compression in the suspension.

Bunderas go great with not too much lift, they have awesome rampover, and it's a good lidea to keep it as low as possible. they are very very easy to flip.

thanks guys, brought some 34"jt'2's i wanna squeeze under it.

one end up the fuel tank strap bolts onto the body, and one end looks like it might be mounted onto the body and the chassis???

they should fit under the front end fine and a lil trim of the rear

mine had 33's before i ripped it appart and it never touched with a 2 inch lift and no body

I have a 3 or 4" lift (!) running 35" XT on landcruiser steel offset rims. So far no problem. I never did a body lift...nor will I.


Hmm....I still don't understand the logic behind moving the axles. How much extra wheel base will one have? 3" or so. One would suppose coupled with offset tyres might make a little difference. Those of us with shorties know we have to be careful