Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i current have a 4inch lift on my maverick\gq and im wondering if anyone ere has a 7inch lift and could tell me if theyve had any problems and who makes the best kit

it would depend on what gear you have with the 4inch ie- arms,panhards,shocks. 7inch is lot more and you will probly have to change it all .i have a mega lift kit from snake racing expensive but you get everything you need and drives like a stocker

i have rancho adjustables and lovells panhard rods no sway bars there over rated anyway, did you have any problems with drive shafts or gearbox mods if they need to be done

Ive got 7inch coils front and 6 inch coils rear, and its still with standard arms apart from panhards, It works and flexes fine with mega long shockies. Although a different arm setup in the front would provide better flex the vehicle is still very capable as it sits. This is in a GU wagon.

My 2c anyways,
Cheers Simon.[/img]

yeah had to rotate rear driveshaft and modify x member just heated it and tapped a dent in it for clearance of slip yoke . on the front shaft i have fitted a double cardon joint for smoother operation the one i use is of a caddy limo but MQ joints bolt straight on . i dont use sway bars either but body roll is like a rangie

rvh96-- are you in brisbane where did you get your lift done

Why do you need a 7inch lift kit? What tires do you intend to run?

yes brisbane southside i ordered kit from snake racing.com and fitted it myself ,driveshafts we did here as we are a driveshaft repair shop

Bogged

Im running 35's at the moment with my 4 inch kit i have on now and i want to go a 7 inch lift as the 4 is going alright but i want 7 becuase the 35's scrub offroad in some situations and i believe the 7 will cut that out

to be honest i wouldnt go as big as a 6inch

had a friend in sydney who fitted a 7-8inch to his 1990-95 GQ and he couldnt control it on the road was all over the place,

sld86 wrote:Bogged

Im running 35's at the moment with my 4 inch kit i have on now and i want to go a 7 inch lift as the 4 is going alright but i want 7 becuase the 35's scrub offroad in some situations and i believe the 7 will cut that out

Do u mean scrubbign on the inner guards on rear? Where is the scrubbing ? I think you maybe sadly mistaken that it will clear it.

sld86 wrote:Bogged

Im running 35's at the moment with my 4 inch kit i have on now and i want to go a 7 inch lift as the 4 is going alright but i want 7 becuase the 35's scrub offroad in some situations and i believe the 7 will cut that out

mate I would seriously look at doing a body lift or look at getting some offset rims before I would go that high.

But look if you want to go that high, do it but it wont be a stable truck and you'll most likly roll it..... seen it done so many times.

ive already done a body lift and have offset rims not real worried about it on road as its not a daily driver, scrubs on the inner wheel arch, also want 7 inch for that bit more articulation

sld86 wrote:ive already done a body lift and have offset rims not real worried about it on road as its not a daily driver, scrubs on the inner wheel arch, also want 7 inch for that bit more articulation

I had 6+inch lift on my GQ and my 33's at the time STILL scrubbed, with body lift, on the inner rear wheel arches... So, as I said, height wont fix your problem with 35's.

Larger rim offset is your friend Not height...

You can get great articulation from a 2 inch lift, with matched springs/shocks, you dont need a 400ft high truck to get articulation.
I ended up going back to a 4inch lift with matched springs/shocks, and got shit hot articulation.

YMMV

agree with bogged here. 7" may be good for crazy size tyres, but for 35's 4" springs and 2" body should be heaps.

cut the guards, or fit some larger bump stops. 7" would look silly if you ask me, and drive crap (offroad too)

as bogged said,

I would look at your current setup before going taller,

and look at your shocks and springs setup as well as your rims.

As there are people that race with 37" tyres and dont have no where near the amount of lift you currently have and dont have scrubbing issues and if they do its very minor.

one thing i have noticed on the front left is that on full lock the thread from the bottom of the shock sits on the streeting arm, would there be any problems with the structual integrity if i nipped a bit off the bottom of the shock becuase theirs about an half inch or so there

sld86 wrote:one thing i have noticed on the front left is that on full lock the thread from the bottom of the shock sits on the streeting arm, would there be any problems with the structual integrity if i nipped a bit off the bottom of the shock becuase theirs about an half inch or so there

Shocks take a HAMMERING... I wouldnt be hacking them at all. specially with ranchos, Im suprised they havent blown yet.. lmao Ranchos need all the help they can get.

Sit down and have a good think about what you want, need what tires u wanna run, what sort of terrain you go on most, and plan your moves.

If your going to go a 4inch lift (all u need), mention to the place you buy from that you have this issue with the shock hitting, (maybe something is bent, or out of align)..
If you plan real well you can do great things, or if you stumble along, it gets expensive.

bogged wrote:

sld86 wrote:one thing i have noticed on the front left is that on full lock the thread from the bottom of the shock sits on the streeting arm, would there be any problems with the structual integrity if i nipped a bit off the bottom of the shock becuase theirs about an half inch or so there

Shocks take a HAMMERING... I wouldnt be hacking them at all. specially with ranchos, Im suprised they havent blown yet.. lmao Ranchos need all the help they can get.

If your going to go a 4inch lift (all u need), mention to the place you buy from that you have this issue with the shock hitting, (maybe something is bent, or out of align)..

If its only the end of the thread on the bottom of the shock. I would just grind abit off. Before it bends the thread. I fitted some dobinson shocks to a GQ ute, with the big tierod. We found that after some driving that the exceess thread was hitting the tie rod at full lock. Which is now bent and will be a pain when they have to come off. Where as I never had a problem when they where on my Shorty GQ.

cut the thread off the bottom left front of mine. problem solved.

oh and bogged 7 years on rancho and no dramas. I love them

YankeeDave wrote:cut the thread off the bottom left front of mine. problem solved.

oh and bogged 7 years on rancho and no dramas. I love them

Yep the ones I mentioned where on the left also. We just didnt notice till they where alredy bent.

is it just a rancho thing or is it common for gq's with the 4inch lift like mine for it to happen, i think the kits been it it for a few years

im running 4 inch coils and 2 inch body lift in mine with 35s, with yota offset rims. they rub a little at full compression. ive fitted drop boxes and slotted bushes and articulation is excellent. there is no way i would run 7 inch coils. would be far too unstable in my opinion.

yep think im off this idea now i have drop boxes fitted so well see how it goes at mud bulls then ill think about what to do next, mite go a set of tjm pro lockers

Be careful with the road nazi's, they tend to look for guys in Big decked out trucks. I had 7 in my gu ute but was illegal. What are you going to do with your 4 inch? U want to get rid of it? I could take it off your hands depending on price.
PM me!!

Im running 35's at the moment with my 4 inch kit i have on now and i want to go a 7 inch lift as the 4 is going alright but i want 7 becuase the 35's scrub offroad in some situations and i believe the 7 will cut that out

mate sorry to dissapoint but i have a 6 inch lift in mine and even with the rear cut out of the gaurds my diff is still 2 inches off the bumpstops when my 35's scrub.
only way to rectify this is to go the bigger lift and get bumpstop extensions, forget the 7 inch lift and go with 2 inch body or turn it into a ute:P

personally i wouldnt go any higher than 6 and even then 6 inch is huge. and i mean huge it costs alot of moeny....... 3k or more to do it so your car has road manerse and reliability.
only reason mine is 6 is cos it was like then when i got it and all the moneys been spent to do it right.............. i woulda went 4 and 2 inch body otherwise

whats the differance besides cost in 6inch suspension lift or going 4inch & 2inch body lift ,stability would be the same, tyre clearance same, but ground clearance less

For what it is worth I went a 5" kit (springs, shocks, castor plates brake lines, adjustable panhards etc) on my series 4 that was advertised as bolt on... so i did... also went for some 35" muddies to sit underneath... they scrub... then along came some driveline vibration so a double cardan (from a landie I think) and a couple of plates under the cross member that holds the transfer case etc to reduce driveline angles... this then requires a chunk out of crossmember for rear driveshaft to clear... so the 3k plus is on the money... but am now hopefully satisfied that I have the job done properly and so far with awesome results (but tyres do scrub on inside against chassis/guard) but couldn't imagine going much taller... if had time over would probably go for smaller spring lift and add body lift (until someone gives feedback that body lift is not worth the dough...) perhaps. So far the springs are solid and it behaves nicely on road whilst still giving good reach off road.

Other side of coin is run ins with QDOT... have been there with this vehicle too...

lift won't stop tyre scrub. my gu had a 5 inch with 285/75 16 mtrs and scrubbed on full flex. if you don't won't it to touch extend your bumpstops to prevent it and deal with the loss of flex. its know got 6 inch lift and 315/75r16 stts and they rub but its only on the wheel tub and no sharp edges to cut the tyre so who cares As for the way they drive they really aren't that bad as long as the spring rate isn't too soft.
As for bolt in kit putting a dent into a cross member is not that hard or is drilling for castor plates bolts. some cars are more sensitive than others for viabrations from driveline angle. especially autos. as for body lifts why!!!

ours does the same thing all u gotta do is bash the lip in side the guard or cut the guards out

cheers adam